Tie rod end
Submitted: Saturday, Dec 22, 2007 at 21:49
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52771
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Member - Longtooth (SA)
I've tried to remove the tie rod end and am unable to undo
the nut. The tapered joint turns in the hole thus making the joint unable to be removed. Other than destroying the joint which is perfectly good and is to be reused are there any suggestions on getting
the nut loose. I wish to check the turning effort of the swivel hub to try and isolate the dreaded GU wobble. I have a theory but would appreciate input from those who have had a similar situation.
Thanks in advance.
Reply By: Member - extfilm (NSW) - Saturday, Dec 22, 2007 at 21:54
Saturday, Dec 22, 2007 at 21:54
just get a screw driver inbetween the rod and the arm. that usually holds it......... hope u have pulled out all of the split pin first
AnswerID:
278016
Follow Up By: Member - Longtooth (SA) - Saturday, Dec 22, 2007 at 21:59
Saturday, Dec 22, 2007 at 21:59
Yes, the split pin is intact and in one piece. Takes a lot of effort to turn
the nut and shaft and a screwdriver was no help. Tried that and also a pinch bar but the damn thing still turned!
FollowupID:
542017
Follow Up By: Member - extfilm (NSW) - Saturday, Dec 22, 2007 at 22:05
Saturday, Dec 22, 2007 at 22:05
try using a hammer and hitting the otherside of the joint. Not the side with
the nut..... then use the pinch bar to lock the joint.
Also have u tried some wd40 and let sit for half an hour or so
FollowupID:
542019
Follow Up By: Member - Longtooth (SA) - Saturday, Dec 22, 2007 at 22:08
Saturday, Dec 22, 2007 at 22:08
Tried this with no success. Sat with WD40 for two days and lots and lots of WD40. All this did was make it easier to turn the whole joint.
The nut stayed firm.
FollowupID:
542020
Follow Up By: Shaker - Saturday, Dec 22, 2007 at 23:17
Saturday, Dec 22, 2007 at 23:17
It sounds to me like
the nut started to undo & then 'bound up', it has probably picked up a piece of thread, your idea of
the nut splitter further down may be the best answer.
FollowupID:
542030
Reply By: Member - Glenn D (NSW) - Saturday, Dec 22, 2007 at 22:24
Saturday, Dec 22, 2007 at 22:24
Hows it going Longtooth ,
Give us a few clues for the 'GU wobble' do you have any lift , camber correction etc or is you rig stock ?
No info on your rig profile ?
Glenn.
AnswerID:
278019
Follow Up By: Member - Longtooth (SA) - Saturday, Dec 22, 2007 at 22:46
Saturday, Dec 22, 2007 at 22:46
It's a totally standard set up. Been trying to track this since new (Nissan no help at all) and driven from the show room. Nisssan blamed tyre balance but no amount of balancing at various
places and a depleting bank balance could fix it. Now going through all and every thing I can find to try. Have had the whole axle to bits and replaced all seals and cleaned and regreased the lot. All seems OK - just need to check the preload on the LH swivel hub.
Haven't put any info on the rig profile. Just gives thieves another target!!
FollowupID:
542025
Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Saturday, Dec 22, 2007 at 22:27
Saturday, Dec 22, 2007 at 22:27
Can you use a hacksaw to cut a slot on top of the bolt, and then insert a screwdriver to stop it from turning?
AnswerID:
278020
Follow Up By: Member - Longtooth (SA) - Saturday, Dec 22, 2007 at 22:50
Saturday, Dec 22, 2007 at 22:50
Don't think this will work Phil. It takes quite a bit of effort to turn
the nut and a hand cut slot will probably just make it hard to hold and harder to get
the nut back on with the split pin hole intact.
Am considering getting a nut splitter and doing it that way. Just need the new nut first!
FollowupID:
542026
Follow Up By: Nick R (VIC) - Sunday, Dec 23, 2007 at 09:35
Sunday, Dec 23, 2007 at 09:35
Instead of a hack saw use a rotary file to cut the same split right through
the nut stopping just short of the thing the bolt goes through, a new nut should be supplied with the new tie rod end,
I had the same problem on our rodeo, this is how I fixed it...
rotary file=angle grinder
Nick
FollowupID:
542077
Follow Up By: disco1942 - Tuesday, Dec 25, 2007 at 15:52
Tuesday, Dec 25, 2007 at 15:52
Nick
He wants to reuse the joint.
PeterD
FollowupID:
542405
Reply By: Patrol22 - Saturday, Dec 22, 2007 at 23:01
Saturday, Dec 22, 2007 at 23:01
Longtooth
The wobble problem is
well documented and there are a number of solutions. In my case 1998 Gu I had a Bob Jane 'gold' wheel balance done and the problem was solved. Other have done other things check
here and
here and
here for starters.
Cheers
Pete
AnswerID:
278024
Follow Up By: Patrol22 - Saturday, Dec 22, 2007 at 23:03
Saturday, Dec 22, 2007 at 23:03
Tried to put other links in that post but didn't work - do a search on the
Patrol Forum and you will find lots of discussion on this topic.
FollowupID:
542028
Reply By: Member - Ed. C. (QLD) - Saturday, Dec 22, 2007 at 23:04
Saturday, Dec 22, 2007 at 23:04
You could try heating
the nut w/- a pinpoint flame (either oxy or propane, whichever is handy;-)), and see if that loosens it....
wrap the rest of the joint with a wet rag to minimise heat transfer..
failing that, I'd be reaching for
the nut splitter;-))
Have fun....
Ed C
| Confucius say.....
"He who lie underneath automobile with tool in hand,
....Not necessarily mechanic!!"Member My Profile Send Message |
AnswerID:
278025
Reply By: Bob Y. - Qld - Saturday, Dec 22, 2007 at 23:44
Saturday, Dec 22, 2007 at 23:44
Longy,
How about positioning a jack under the tie-rod end, and putting some pressure upwards, so the taper re-seats in the arm?
Not enough to lift the nissan, of course.
Otherwise, you could pour some Loctite "609" down into the taper, and put upwards pressure on overnight, then try again in the morning. But make sure you don't get any on
the nut. Apparently heat will help counter the effects of Loctite, like an oxy!
Good luck,
Hooroo,
Bob.
AnswerID:
278027
Reply By: Member - Olcoolone (S.A) - Sunday, Dec 23, 2007 at 10:01
Sunday, Dec 23, 2007 at 10:01
Try tightning it back up with a impact gun and then undo it, you might be able to get the tapper to reseat.
The other thing you could try freezing the outer shrinking it.
Regards Richard
AnswerID:
278069
Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Sunday, Dec 23, 2007 at 17:14
Sunday, Dec 23, 2007 at 17:14
I was just thinking of the impact gun idea too..... I reckon a few quick hits with the Shentai impact wrench may do the trick.....It's sudden impact that might just "crack" it......
Good luck
FollowupID:
542140
Reply By: happytravelers - Sunday, Dec 23, 2007 at 11:00
Sunday, Dec 23, 2007 at 11:00
I've often found that reducing the number of shims in the top bearing of the swivel hub, ( undo the four bolts on top of the hub to access the shims ) will tighten up the swivel hub turning effort and reduce the wheel wobble. You don't need to remove the tie rod end to do this.
Regards Jon
AnswerID:
278082
Reply By: Hoyks - Sunday, Dec 23, 2007 at 13:51
Sunday, Dec 23, 2007 at 13:51
Try a socket over
the nut and then stick a G clamp over the end and tighten that up. Hopefully it will lock the taper in again and let you remove
the nut.
At least separating the end should be easy then. I did
mine last week and even with the proper
tools it was a real bugger.
AnswerID:
278108
Reply By: Member - Longtooth (SA) - Sunday, Dec 23, 2007 at 21:37
Sunday, Dec 23, 2007 at 21:37
Thanks all, been a busy day. Will attempt a fix tomorow.
Longtooth
AnswerID:
278180
Reply By: Ozboc - Tuesday, Dec 25, 2007 at 07:09
Tuesday, Dec 25, 2007 at 07:09
silly question , but is it right hand thread or left ??
Boc
AnswerID:
278345
Follow Up By: Member - Longtooth (SA) - Wednesday, Dec 26, 2007 at 21:56
Wednesday, Dec 26, 2007 at 21:56
Definitely a right hand thread. Knew that but still went out to
check!
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542552
Reply By: mechpete - Wednesday, Dec 26, 2007 at 21:42
Wednesday, Dec 26, 2007 at 21:42
tie rod end ,
try putting a jack under the back of the tierod to pu bleep hard into the taper .
I have after about 7or8 yrs fixed the shimmy in my GQ , tried all the usualls wheels tyres alignment , you name it . finally got around to checking the swivel bearings ,they would fall lock to lock under there own weight , took out the shims , they were firm but you could swing them through there range of travel with one finger . FIXED it
cheers mechpete
AnswerID:
278539
Follow Up By: Member - Longtooth (SA) - Wednesday, Dec 26, 2007 at 22:07
Wednesday, Dec 26, 2007 at 22:07
Thanks Pete,
Reckon this is the last option. There was only one each side so will remove them and see what happens. The RH side turning effort was at the top of the specified range (the LH still had the tie rod attached) so will try removing them. Nissan can't fix it but this may
well be the fix. Somebody said earlier that the Toyota preload is quite a bit more than Nissan so maybe they have found the fix and nobody is changing it at Nissan. When I had it looked at the first time passing through
Cairns, a
suspension place - can't remember the name - had the wheels, tie rod and steering linkage off and even with the scraper seal on the hubs just clunked from one lock to the other when moved. He removed a couple of the shims but maybe not enough.
FollowupID:
542557
Reply By: Richard Kovac - Wednesday, Dec 26, 2007 at 22:10
Wednesday, Dec 26, 2007 at 22:10
Just buy yourself a nut splitter, split nut and then buy new nut
Cheers
Richard
AnswerID:
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Follow Up By: Member - Longtooth (SA) - Wednesday, Dec 26, 2007 at 23:04
Wednesday, Dec 26, 2007 at 23:04
On tomorrow's shopping list Richard!
FollowupID:
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Reply By: Member - Longtooth (SA) - Friday, Dec 28, 2007 at 00:51
Friday, Dec 28, 2007 at 00:51
To all who replied, thanks. Cut
the nut off with a nut splitter - should have had one years ago! However, the vibration is still there. Will go to Bob Janes as advised and get the gold balance - further investigation indicates this may be a fix. Unfortunately it is an on vehicle balance and if this fixes the problem it does indicate that the hub is the problem and therein lies another problem. One day it will be fixed!
Longtooth
AnswerID:
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