simple rim size question

the only think i can think of right now(i just got up)is the different offset.what side of the rim is the inch coming from.

Mike

Providing the centre fits the hub properly and is fully supported and any difference in back spacing does not make a big difference to your track width or affect brake clearance, then the wheels will fit and work ok.

There are lots of tyres available for a six inch but the width will be limited to about 235 mm. I think from memory the Pajero used that size on a six a few years ago but that is about the limit. There is plenty of rim/tyre size information on the tyre company websites.

Another one that is ideal for a six inch rim is the 7.50x16. There is a hugh range available in that size in all thread patterns and construction designs right up to super strength and puncture resistant bias ply types. The only problem is most of them are so stiff and heavy you won't get them on and off anything other than a split rim.

Brian

Why the change? If you are just going to fit narrower tyres then you probably can do that on the standard rims without having to spend money on new ones. What ever you do you will either have to keep to the specifications on the vehicles tyre plate or get the new setup certified by a qualified engineer

PeterD

I've got 4 rims in the trader section (for the total sum of $0.00 incl. GST). You're welcome to them but you gotta pick em up. They are the originals of my 92 4Runner, 16 inch.

Your Jackaroo would have come with 245/70R16 on 7 inch rims or 205R16 on 6 inch rims - both have a diameter of about 750mm.

If you want to stay standard, then stick to these sizes. If you want a stronger/taller tyre on the 7 inch rim, then upsize to 245/75R16 - can get 10ply rating tyres in this size.

If you want a stronger tyre on the 6 inch rim, go for the 225/75R16. A taller tyre than this is not easily available.

If you want to buy rims from another vehicle, then tread carefully.
#1 The backspacing is what really matters - measure it in your current rims - I think you'll find its about 110mm. Too much backspacing, and you'll rub on the inside.
#2 The PCD is common with many of the 6 stud rims, so shouldn't be an issue.
#3 The diameter of the wheel centre can be an issue - too small and the rim won't go on!

If you don't understand PCD or backspacing, just google them.

cheers
Phil

Apart from the helpful technical items to check that have already been mentioned i.e. offset/PCD/mounting to hub method etc, don't forget to check the bore of the stud holes in the replacement rims to make sure the taper is the same as your wheel nuts. Some tapered seats are different angles, some are not tapered but shaped liked a ball or are radiused hence "ball seat" and some are flat e.g. Mags, in which case the nuts usually have an extension to the threaded section which extends through the stud hole in the rim and an integral flat washer where the nut pulls up tight on the flat section of the rim centre rather than a tapered section. The rim centre disc thickness is critical on this type as you don't want the extended section of the nut contacting the hub before it bottoms out and pulls up tight on the rim. Another thing to consider is that if you go smaller in width and fit the widest tyre permissable on a 6" rim you are likely to experience premature wear in the centre section of the tread as you are pulling the tyre walls in to fit the narrower rim. This applies even if you stay within the max and min tyre widths allowed for a given rim width. You are better to stay with the optimum recommended tyre size for a 6" rim rather than sizes at either end of the range allowed. Whatever you do legally per the light vehicle NCOP you are only allowed to increase the rolling tyre diameter by up to 50mm and reduce it by up to 26mm of the manuafacturers optional sizes as stated on the tyre placard but you must still maintain speedo accuracy. Personally I would stick to the size fitted by the manufacture as he has spent a $hitload of money and designed the safe operation of the vehicle around the sizes fitted and this includes handling, braking, steering angles, steering response, etc. You don't specify what is actually wrong with your rims but if the proposed ones are from a different make and different year (stamped or cast on to the rim) and of unknwn history I would be very careful and check any implications with your insurer (before making a claim) as they are very apt at finding an excuse not to pay up (can't believe I said that so politely) Good luck.

Mike,

You say you can get a set of 4 cheap, but what about the spare?

Wayne