Faulty Waeco

Submitted: Thursday, Jan 17, 2008 at 12:25
ThreadID: 53577 Views:3088 Replies:9 FollowUps:9
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Hi

After approx 4 years of no problems my Waeco CF 50 fridge started playing up on our Xmas trip. The symptoms are:-

1. The fridge works fine when the vehicle motor is going and the auxillary battery is producing plenty of current. However after the vehicle has been stopped a few hours and the voltage at the socket has dropped to 12.1 volts the fridge won't operate. It seems to be trying to start then it cuts out. I have always had the cut out switch set to "low" and in the past have operated where necessary on lower voltages than 12v.

2. I also noticed that the light in the fridge comes on if the the lid is raised even if the fridge is turned off, providing the plug is in the socket. I cannot remember if this is normal as i don't usually have the fridge switched off when in the vehicle.

3. Also the light in the fridge seems really hot. I can hardly touch it. Just to get home on our trip I jammed the light switch to off so I didn't do any damage.

As we were in southern qld for 3 weeks and travelled back north we encountered heaps of rain on our trip and I don't know if it was a co-incidence but I had to re-set the vehicle clock and re-install the security number on the Radio / CD on the trip for no apparent reason.

There would not appear to be any problem with voltage reduction at the socket.

Has anybody any ideas ?
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Reply By: Robnicko - Thursday, Jan 17, 2008 at 12:37

Thursday, Jan 17, 2008 at 12:37
1. fridge turned off but still plugged into socket = light will still come on if lid opened > normal.

2. Light very hot = light not turning off when lid closed. Check the lid stricker wheer it oushes the light switch. Could be worn out. Waeco have changed the light switch on later models to a tapered switch that does not eat into the lid striker area.

3. Voltage 12.1 after a couple of hours at socket. Check voltage at battery, should be slightly higher on battery terminals. Signifigant increase would be wiring problem somewhere.
Check battery with hydrometer to get a proper indication of battery state.

Hope this helps

Rob
AnswerID: 282062

Follow Up By: Wizard1 - Thursday, Jan 17, 2008 at 12:58

Thursday, Jan 17, 2008 at 12:58
The Light. It is always hot as you will find the "off button" doesn't actually turn it off as the assembly gets pushed down too far so the light stays on ALL the time. I disconnected the light.

We had a similar voltage drop problem before xmas when hooked up in the car and running off the second battery. Checked the voltage at the battery and the socket (outlet). Down to 12.1 V.

Took the car to Battery World to get the battery checked and maybe replaced. Ran a voltage and capacity check. Nothing wrong apart from a loose terminal clamp which was causing the voltage drop. Tightened the terminal all good since.
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FollowupID: 546567

Follow Up By: pauls - Thursday, Jan 17, 2008 at 20:36

Thursday, Jan 17, 2008 at 20:36
Thanks for your response.

I don't think I have a wiring problem as the voltage of the battery is consistent with the voltage at the fridge, and I have checked the battery with a hydrometer. However, I will look at the catch for the light on the lid as I agree it is obviously not turning it off.

Paul
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FollowupID: 546635

Follow Up By: pauls - Thursday, Jan 17, 2008 at 20:37

Thursday, Jan 17, 2008 at 20:37
Thanks for your response.

I don't think I have a wiring problem as the voltage of the battery is consistent with the voltage at the fridge, and I have checked the battery with a hydrometer. However, I will look at the catch for the light on the lid as I agree it is obviously not turning it off.

Paul
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FollowupID: 546636

Reply By: Gronk - Thursday, Jan 17, 2008 at 13:26

Thursday, Jan 17, 2008 at 13:26
If socket is down to 12.1V ( no fridge or anything else running ) after a few hrs then although the fridge should still run fine, the source of the drain down should be determined..

If you have the fridge connected, and you have got a hot joint or voltage drop probs then the voltage at the fridge may be a LOT less than 12.1V......
AnswerID: 282071

Reply By: Leroy - Thursday, Jan 17, 2008 at 13:33

Thursday, Jan 17, 2008 at 13:33
Check all connections plug and socket but probably a faulty ciggy skt and plug.

Leroy
AnswerID: 282075

Reply By: TerraFirma - Thursday, Jan 17, 2008 at 15:19

Thursday, Jan 17, 2008 at 15:19
The fact that you stated the fridge works fine when the motor is running indicates the fridge itself is fine. The fact that it cuts out later shows a voltage, current or battery issue. You will need to determine condition of battery / charge and then work back from there to determine the problem which no doubt lies with the vehicle itself.
AnswerID: 282090

Reply By: Sand Man (SA) - Friday, Jan 18, 2008 at 00:39

Friday, Jan 18, 2008 at 00:39
I'm not a Waeco owner, but I recall reading on this forum that there are 3 different low voltage cutout settings available on some, if not all Waeco models.

Perhaps it is just a matter of selecting a different setting.

11.6 volts is as low as the battery should be taken for a long life.

Bill


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AnswerID: 282191

Follow Up By: Wizard1 - Friday, Jan 18, 2008 at 08:52

Friday, Jan 18, 2008 at 08:52
He already had the frdge on the Low setting as explained in the original message.

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FollowupID: 546724

Reply By: Phillipn - Friday, Jan 18, 2008 at 10:29

Friday, Jan 18, 2008 at 10:29
My Waeco 50 litre had the error light blinking and would not function. I had it tested at a Waeco repair place. Their was no voltage loss to the fridge, with and without a load.

The problem was the fuse inside the unit. They showed me the fuse that is in the units from new and replaced it with a heaver one.

The smaller fuse is OK in cooler places like Germany where they are made, but in warmer countries like Australia they need to have the larger fuse installed.

I am quoting what they told me.
AnswerID: 282233

Follow Up By: pauls - Friday, Jan 18, 2008 at 15:39

Friday, Jan 18, 2008 at 15:39
Hi

Where is the fuse and what amp fuse should we be using?

Thanks

Paul
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FollowupID: 546776

Follow Up By: Phillipn - Friday, Jan 18, 2008 at 21:01

Friday, Jan 18, 2008 at 21:01
It`s inside the unit and can only be done by waeco people while under warranty. I don`t know what amps it is.
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FollowupID: 546860

Reply By: Member - Troll 81 (QLD) - Friday, Jan 18, 2008 at 11:28

Friday, Jan 18, 2008 at 11:28
If the battery is dropping to 12.1 V then your battery will be damaged. How old is the battery? If the car is running and the fridge is running then the problem must be with the battery
AnswerID: 282248

Follow Up By: pauls - Friday, Jan 18, 2008 at 15:42

Friday, Jan 18, 2008 at 15:42
Hi

But shouldn't the fridge still work on 12.1 volts if it is set to the low cut out setting.?

The battey only drops to 12.1volts after a few hours of fridge use.

Thanks

Paul
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FollowupID: 546777

Follow Up By: Member - Troll 81 (QLD) - Friday, Jan 18, 2008 at 16:02

Friday, Jan 18, 2008 at 16:02
Probably all in theory.

How old is the battery and what type? For my deep cycle running 2 fridges the starting volts will be say be 12.6 and the next morning it will be 12.4 and that night it will be 12.1-2 once it gets to that stage my battery monitor kicks in and starts beeping because of low voltage
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FollowupID: 546778

Follow Up By: pauls - Saturday, Jan 19, 2008 at 11:55

Saturday, Jan 19, 2008 at 11:55
The battery is 3 years old and is a deep cycle. I think probably you are right and I need to replace the battery.

Thanks


Paul
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FollowupID: 546989

Reply By: stevie1947 - Friday, Jan 18, 2008 at 13:02

Friday, Jan 18, 2008 at 13:02
Hi
Sell it and get an Engle. Can't go wrong.
That should stire the pot?
AnswerID: 282257

Reply By: MEMBER - Darian (SA) - Friday, Jan 18, 2008 at 18:12

Friday, Jan 18, 2008 at 18:12
From feedback here over quite some time, its called a POLY fuse (internal fitting) and is replaced by a technician - not the owner - it's sensitive to heat (ie - poor bl#$%^&*y design !) - my CF60 has been at an accredited agent for about 5 weeks now - mainly waiting on parts from Waeco I'm told - in hot weather, mine was tripping to the low voltage fault mode, while the voltage was in fact ok - lots of them have apparently been doping this.
AnswerID: 282322

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