over heating

Hi Rodney I would check the cooling fan fluid coupling, if the fan spins freely when you spin it by hand with the engine stopped it is knackered , a certain amount of resistance should be felt. Some older Toyota units could be dismanteld and topped up with fluid, newer units are sealed at the factory and will have to be replaced, check after market suppliers eg Repco.
Regards Ken.

Could anyone help me, or know what this problem could be

Might be fan clutch, if temp is ok while moving then I'd probably be looking at the
fan first.

Rodney,Keep the shiny side up

Rodney,
I stuffed the first reply up, sorry. I take it you've checked all the usual stuff like water level, just thought I would ask... As mentioned fan clutch would be suspect also check air flow through the rad could be blocked with something, seeds, mud, leaves bugs etc, clean all that out plus check the gap between the air con rad if fitted and the engine rad, sometimes the hoses laminate internally and restrict flow, worst case could be the impeller on the back of the water pump could be corroded and therefore a little less efficient, could be a sticking thermostat. The problems sound like they started after a camping trip your radiator may just be blocked with debris, or the fan clutch is u/s. Hope you find something, start with the easiest and work from there.Keep the shiny side up

gday rodney
there could be heaps of things causing it and i know this dosnt help.
but the temp gauge on your pagero says cold on the bottom and hot up the top.
now while most of the time your pajero might run 1/3 to 1/2 on the guage just remember that anywhere up to the hot is considered normal.
unless it sits flat out for a while.
now you have just done a big hill climb and worked the motor a little more harder than normal.it will get hot.
could be as simple as engine running hotter for a lot longer than its used to and thermostat playing up now.seen it before.
i wouldnt panic to much if you read your owners manual it will tell you normal operating temp is between h&c.
i have a gq and normaly guage reads 1/4 put the van on. whack on the aircon and do a big highway run soon reaches 3/4 but sits there all day with out a prob.
just try your normal things.i change all my hoses at 40000ks coolant every 20000ks.get the radiator checked out and cleaned about $60.and thermo clutch could be anotherthing.
looking foward to september(landcruiser park/fraser island)

hi Rodney, I have had the Lada's, pajero's.....blah,blah,blah but the only thing to fix ALL problems is a GQ Nissan patrol...TD42, these vehicles eliminate most if not all problems that other vehicles encounter, actually low/low up hill under full load they actually get cooler, believe me thats re-assurring
Col

Have you flushed the radiator? the fins AND inside?

Also things to check

Themostat - Change, they are only $10-20

Radiator coolant - Change it now wont hurt.

Radiator hoses - Check for splits and if they are rooted, if they are originals from 95, I would change them.

Temp Guage sender - when you get to "H" it usually fries the sender on the block.

Remove radiator from car, take cap off, tip upside down, stick hose in there and blast! Watch for crap in it.. If none comes out, take to radiator place, they can do a check to tell you what % of blockages are inside.

While its out of car, clean all bugs and crap from outside of fins.

Auto or Manual car??

The local servo isn't doing the radiator check, a place in Artamonm (Sydney) called Traction Four are doing the pressure check, which is where we would normally get the car serviced.

Rodney,

Just a follow up on what others have said. I had a V6 Camry, it overheaded on a trip from Melbourne to Adelaide. We let it cool down, and it would be fine for awhile, then get hot again. It was worse around the traffic lights like you mentioned, would get real hot, then cool down as driving. It only ever did it on the trip to Adelaide and back, all other times it never happened.

Anyway, I took it to Toyota, they told me I was dreaming, and it had never overheaded (typical response). After several months I took it to a radiator guy, and he recommended removing the top tank, and checking the operation of the radiator, similar to what Truckster recommended. Anyway it was 75% blocked, he then used a thin piece of stainless steel to clear each individual core in the radiator until low pressure water would run through all the cores. Cost $100 for the job, the car never overheated again, ever.

Don't waste money on reverse flushes as they can't remove any of the gunk that get stuck in the radiator anyway. The radiator guy told me that the radiator acts like a filter, on long trips, or extended hard work, any corrosion or general stuff in the motor will be dislodged, and since the radiator is the coolest most restrictive place in the system, it gets stuck there, usually where the fan is. The 25% of my radiator that was working was the opposite end from the fan.

This would be my recommended solution, after you check the fan and coolant levels etc. Apparently this is very common in earlier 90's model Falcons and Commodores also.

Hope you get it sorted.

Andrew

mine was a stuffed radiator dut to 4wd service centre changing coolant and not flushing old (noncompatible) out. Only heated cos it was blocked with aluminium particulatesRichard

If your water remains fine then I would tend to go with an airflow problem with what you describe. The oil for the viscous coupling is a silicone oil and you can get it from toyota for $10 a vial. They say you will only need two vials to service a coupling but I washed mine out after stripping it and refilled it with three vials and the bastard runs like a dream under heavy load on the hottest day with the A/C on it might move a pubic hair, not even half a needle width and stays there and then cools down that half needle within 500metres of plain sailing. Hope this helps.

A suggestion for Tony, SLOW DOWN!!!