over heating

Submitted: Wednesday, Jul 02, 2003 at 21:22
ThreadID: 5788 Views:1872 Replies:13 FollowUps:16
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Recently i went 4wdriving and after climing a very steep hill carrying alot of weight the cars temperature gauge rose to a point beyond the normal operating temperature, but not on the "H". I thought this was only as a result of pushing the car too hard at the time. But when i was driving home and stop at a traffic light I noticed the temperature gauge being to rise again to the same level as it was when i had finished climbing the hill but then retunred to normal after the car started to move. 30 minutes of driving stopping at another traffic light i notice the temperature increasing. The problem only seems to occurs every so often and most of the time its when the car is at idel. Just to remind you the temperature gauge is not reading hot, its just well beyond its normal operating temperature.
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Reply By: Billowaggi - Wednesday, Jul 02, 2003 at 22:04

Wednesday, Jul 02, 2003 at 22:04
Hi Rodney I would check the cooling fan fluid coupling, if the fan spins freely when you spin it by hand with the engine stopped it is knackered , a certain amount of resistance should be felt. Some older Toyota units could be dismanteld and topped up with fluid, newer units are sealed at the factory and will have to be replaced, check after market suppliers eg Repco.
Regards Ken.
AnswerID: 24071

Follow Up By: Rodney - Wednesday, Jul 02, 2003 at 22:18

Wednesday, Jul 02, 2003 at 22:18
Is this problem costly to fix.
I have just check the fan and it spins freely.
And its a Mitsubishi Pajero NJ 1995
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Reply By: Rodney - Wednesday, Jul 02, 2003 at 22:04

Wednesday, Jul 02, 2003 at 22:04
Could anyone help me, or know what this problem could be
AnswerID: 24072

Follow Up By: Billowaggi - Wednesday, Jul 02, 2003 at 22:38

Wednesday, Jul 02, 2003 at 22:38
Hi Rodney, depending if part is available non genuine and wether you can fit yourself [easy] I would think the part may be $150 non genuine ,$450 Original also check for second hand part .
Regards Ken.
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Reply By: Phil R - Wednesday, Jul 02, 2003 at 22:06

Wednesday, Jul 02, 2003 at 22:06
Might be fan clutch, if temp is ok while moving then I'd probably be looking at the
fan first.
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Reply By: Martyn (WA) - Wednesday, Jul 02, 2003 at 22:12

Wednesday, Jul 02, 2003 at 22:12
Rodney,Keep the shiny side up
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Follow Up By: Truckster (Vic) - Thursday, Jul 03, 2003 at 11:18

Thursday, Jul 03, 2003 at 11:18
couldnt agree more :P
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Follow Up By: Member - Bonz (Vic) - Thursday, Jul 03, 2003 at 21:39

Thursday, Jul 03, 2003 at 21:39
Yer, I'm with Truckster on this one, well said Martyn!

roflSo many places to go!
So much work to do :0(
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Reply By: Martyn (WA) - Wednesday, Jul 02, 2003 at 22:20

Wednesday, Jul 02, 2003 at 22:20
Rodney,
I stuffed the first reply up, sorry. I take it you've checked all the usual stuff like water level, just thought I would ask... As mentioned fan clutch would be suspect also check air flow through the rad could be blocked with something, seeds, mud, leaves bugs etc, clean all that out plus check the gap between the air con rad if fitted and the engine rad, sometimes the hoses laminate internally and restrict flow, worst case could be the impeller on the back of the water pump could be corroded and therefore a little less efficient, could be a sticking thermostat. The problems sound like they started after a camping trip your radiator may just be blocked with debris, or the fan clutch is u/s. Hope you find something, start with the easiest and work from there.Keep the shiny side up
AnswerID: 24077

Reply By: diamond (bendigo) - Thursday, Jul 03, 2003 at 00:02

Thursday, Jul 03, 2003 at 00:02
gday rodney
there could be heaps of things causing it and i know this dosnt help.
but the temp gauge on your pagero says cold on the bottom and hot up the top.
now while most of the time your pajero might run 1/3 to 1/2 on the guage just remember that anywhere up to the hot is considered normal.
unless it sits flat out for a while.
now you have just done a big hill climb and worked the motor a little more harder than normal.it will get hot.
could be as simple as engine running hotter for a lot longer than its used to and thermostat playing up now.seen it before.
i wouldnt panic to much if you read your owners manual it will tell you normal operating temp is between h&c.
i have a gq and normaly guage reads 1/4 put the van on. whack on the aircon and do a big highway run soon reaches 3/4 but sits there all day with out a prob.
just try your normal things.i change all my hoses at 40000ks coolant every 20000ks.get the radiator checked out and cleaned about $60.and thermo clutch could be anotherthing.
looking foward to september(landcruiser park/fraser island)
AnswerID: 24085

Reply By: Col - Thursday, Jul 03, 2003 at 00:34

Thursday, Jul 03, 2003 at 00:34
hi Rodney, I have had the Lada's, pajero's.....blah,blah,blah but the only thing to fix ALL problems is a GQ Nissan patrol...TD42, these vehicles eliminate most if not all problems that other vehicles encounter, actually low/low up hill under full load they actually get cooler, believe me thats re-assurring
Col
AnswerID: 24089

Follow Up By: Tony - Thursday, Jul 03, 2003 at 07:12

Thursday, Jul 03, 2003 at 07:12
Thats not with all Nissans if I sit on 140 or higher the aircon shuts off because the vehicle temp is to high. GU TD42. Its a real pain in the butt during summer. Now I'm not going to sell the GU just to take a backward step and get a GQ, my next 4WD will be a TOYOYA.
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Follow Up By: Member - Cocka - Thursday, Jul 03, 2003 at 09:02

Thursday, Jul 03, 2003 at 09:02
Unnecessary s/a comments Col. Rod sounds like he really needs some help & can't afford to throw $$$$ around like you.
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Follow Up By: Member - Wombat (Vic) - Thursday, Jul 03, 2003 at 11:43

Thursday, Jul 03, 2003 at 11:43
Couldn't have said it any better Cocka - well done!"Live today as if there may be no tomorrow"

Wombat
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Follow Up By: Rodney - Thursday, Jul 03, 2003 at 13:31

Thursday, Jul 03, 2003 at 13:31
I have own a patrol before and found them to heavy on the fuel, comfort levels are poor, noise is excesive, and when fourwheel drive was enaged the temperature would rise to a level just before the "H". Although the patrol was a little more off road capable than the pajero I found the pajero to be EXTREMELY reliable having done 215 000 with vitually no problem with the car except for maybe a flat tyre here or there, this is the first time i have experienced a slight temperature increase in the engine and was just concerned that this might be the start of a serious problem.
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Reply By: Truckster (Vic) - Thursday, Jul 03, 2003 at 11:32

Thursday, Jul 03, 2003 at 11:32
Have you flushed the radiator? the fins AND inside?

Also things to check

Themostat - Change, they are only $10-20

Radiator coolant - Change it now wont hurt.

Radiator hoses - Check for splits and if they are rooted, if they are originals from 95, I would change them.

Temp Guage sender - when you get to "H" it usually fries the sender on the block.

Remove radiator from car, take cap off, tip upside down, stick hose in there and blast! Watch for crap in it.. If none comes out, take to radiator place, they can do a check to tell you what % of blockages are inside.

While its out of car, clean all bugs and crap from outside of fins.

Auto or Manual car??
AnswerID: 24100

Follow Up By: Rodney - Thursday, Jul 03, 2003 at 13:04

Thursday, Jul 03, 2003 at 13:04
Thanks for all your help, I went down to the local petrol station this morning and they check the fluid level in the radiator, and not suprisingly enough it was low. So the car goes in tomorrow for a radiator pressure check. I think when i climbed the steep hill a rock must have ricker shaded off the front wheels and damaged the radiator.
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Follow Up By: Truckster (Vic) - Thursday, Jul 03, 2003 at 13:09

Thursday, Jul 03, 2003 at 13:09
Your better to go to a radiator place than servo, the servo will only send it to Rad place, and add $$ to the bill.

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Follow Up By: Truckster (Vic) - Thursday, Jul 03, 2003 at 13:12

Thursday, Jul 03, 2003 at 13:12
Where are you?
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Reply By: Rodney - Thursday, Jul 03, 2003 at 13:35

Thursday, Jul 03, 2003 at 13:35
The local servo isn't doing the radiator check, a place in Artamonm (Sydney) called Traction Four are doing the pressure check, which is where we would normally get the car serviced.
AnswerID: 24102

Reply By: AndrewW - Thursday, Jul 03, 2003 at 13:50

Thursday, Jul 03, 2003 at 13:50
Rodney,

Just a follow up on what others have said. I had a V6 Camry, it overheaded on a trip from Melbourne to Adelaide. We let it cool down, and it would be fine for awhile, then get hot again. It was worse around the traffic lights like you mentioned, would get real hot, then cool down as driving. It only ever did it on the trip to Adelaide and back, all other times it never happened.

Anyway, I took it to Toyota, they told me I was dreaming, and it had never overheaded (typical response). After several months I took it to a radiator guy, and he recommended removing the top tank, and checking the operation of the radiator, similar to what Truckster recommended. Anyway it was 75% blocked, he then used a thin piece of stainless steel to clear each individual core in the radiator until low pressure water would run through all the cores. Cost $100 for the job, the car never overheated again, ever.

Don't waste money on reverse flushes as they can't remove any of the gunk that get stuck in the radiator anyway. The radiator guy told me that the radiator acts like a filter, on long trips, or extended hard work, any corrosion or general stuff in the motor will be dislodged, and since the radiator is the coolest most restrictive place in the system, it gets stuck there, usually where the fan is. The 25% of my radiator that was working was the opposite end from the fan.

This would be my recommended solution, after you check the fan and coolant levels etc. Apparently this is very common in earlier 90's model Falcons and Commodores also.

Hope you get it sorted.

Andrew
AnswerID: 24104

Reply By: Member - Wherethehellawi - Thursday, Jul 03, 2003 at 17:28

Thursday, Jul 03, 2003 at 17:28
mine was a stuffed radiator dut to 4wd service centre changing coolant and not flushing old (noncompatible) out. Only heated cos it was blocked with aluminium particulatesRichard
AnswerID: 24113

Reply By: howesy - Thursday, Jul 03, 2003 at 17:31

Thursday, Jul 03, 2003 at 17:31
If your water remains fine then I would tend to go with an airflow problem with what you describe. The oil for the viscous coupling is a silicone oil and you can get it from toyota for $10 a vial. They say you will only need two vials to service a coupling but I washed mine out after stripping it and refilled it with three vials and the bastard runs like a dream under heavy load on the hottest day with the A/C on it might move a pubic hair, not even half a needle width and stays there and then cools down that half needle within 500metres of plain sailing. Hope this helps.
AnswerID: 24114

Follow Up By: Billowaggi - Thursday, Jul 03, 2003 at 22:40

Thursday, Jul 03, 2003 at 22:40
Dont you guys read above posts! You can't top up the fluid on newer fan clutches. Did not Rodney say right at the top of this page that the fan had no resistance?If the fluid has gone from the fan clutch dont you think there may be a leek? Topping it up,if possible, aint going to fix properly! or permanently! also CHECK THE SIMPLE THINGS FIRST!
Regards Ken.
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Follow Up By: Truckster (Vic) - Friday, Jul 04, 2003 at 11:43

Friday, Jul 04, 2003 at 11:43
Billow.

1) GQ clutch fans are not supposed to be rebuilable either but Ive had mine done.
2) "If the fluid has gone from the fan clutch dont you think there may be a leek?"
a) its leak
b) No there doesnt have to be a leak for it do not work properly. the Fluid (silicone) loses its properties and doesnt work.
c) topping up is a cheaper option to $400 for a clutch fan.
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Follow Up By: Rodney - Friday, Jul 04, 2003 at 18:41

Friday, Jul 04, 2003 at 18:41
Thanks for you advisr. it goes in next week for a complete check up, on the radiator.
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Follow Up By: howesy - Friday, Jul 04, 2003 at 21:53

Friday, Jul 04, 2003 at 21:53
No need to get snotty dude. So many people are so non descipt you have to try and cover all possibilities and Yes as you said some are rebuildable and some aren't but I can show you many a vehicle that are as they left the factory and have parts on them that according to the catalogue shouldn't be so. and then there is the possibility that the guy is the second owner and it is not the original setup, and also the fluid does not need to have leaked out to give no resistance. This can happen when the silicone oil loses it's properties and if it did leak out and he does have a serviceable unit (which one look will tell even a rank ametuer) then the seal is also replaceable, so you see maybe we are not the morons you had implied but merely people capable of thinking outside the square. it's not possible for everyone , have a nice day.
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Reply By: bozo - Thursday, Jul 03, 2003 at 20:56

Thursday, Jul 03, 2003 at 20:56
A suggestion for Tony, SLOW DOWN!!!
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Follow Up By: Tony - Friday, Jul 04, 2003 at 07:05

Friday, Jul 04, 2003 at 07:05
Oh what a Feeling.
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