Both Batteries Running Winch?

Thanks Don and Graham.

Can you point me to an online sale for the isolator/overide button?

Richard

Look at redarc's website, they have wiring diagrams for what you want there too. You can buy them fom most 4wd shops or try ebay.


www.redarc.com.au

Our page sponsor Derek of ABR sells them for a reasonable price.
Cheaper than my batterry shop anyway

www.sidewinder.com.au

Can I ask why you would want to do this?

before anyone jumps onto me - I write what follows without ANY formal training in electrics/batteires or mechanocs - just a bit of life experience and 'hopefully' a logical approach to most problems :-))

I understand that by connecting the 2 batteries you will have the combined power/output of both batteries

But why do you need the combined outputs?

Don't you run the risk of being able to run the winch longer/harder than with just one battery - couldn't this overheat the winch (I belive a lot of winches also have athermal overload too)

Don't you also run the risk of running BOTH batteires down and then you have no crank battery. Possibly leaving you still bogged and without power to your UHF etc

I 'think' my logic stacks up :-)

ooops

quote:

I write what follows without ANY formal training in electrics/batteires or mechanocs - or how to use a spellchecker LOL

Kiwiangler,

Are you referring to 2 same sized batteries verses 1, or 2 little batteries verses 1 big one or 2 old ones verses one new one.

I guess my point is that every set up is diferent and to have 2 batteries available for winching at the cost of an additional $2.00 switch to the isolator is very good insurance if there are problems, especially in the high country where it can get cold. Also the cool down recovery rate of a winch is faster than the recharge rate of a battery so 2 can be handy to keep going without over discharging them.

BooBook2


sorry about the confusion I menat to post as a "reply' to the original post rather than a 'follow up' to your response.

What I mean is - I assume that the origonal poster ONLY has 2 batteries a main and an aux.

If he joins the main and the aux to run his winch doesnt he run the risk that he will run BOTH batteries down (even if he has his motor running) and thus be without ANY power to crank the engine once he finished winching

Kiwiangler,

I think that provided you keep the engine running and provided your cranking battery is not too stuffed then you should usually get sufficient charge back into it after another 15 mins of charging or so after some heavy duty winching. If you have the 2 batteries it is like 2 buckets of water so they will last twice as long ( approx).

I think I understand your point which is that preserving the cranker is a priority over winching ( like it would be with say a fridge), but because the enigine is still running and is likley to be for some time after winching then IMHO it is better to say 1/3 drain two batteries than 2/3 drain one. For recreational winching if things get too hot or batteries run down then it is probably a good time for a beer ..er, ahh I mean 15 minute break anyway.

With the run back to the camp site or whatever the 2 batteries should be in better charge than one really low aux battery that may not make it through the night with the fridge.

Some people even advocate using the cranking battery only for the winch.

Care to explain?

KiwiAngler - what boobook2 said.

Troopyman

I believe I know a reasonable amount about winching - so no point in dropping a negative one line reply and taking off

I also know enough not to risk running 2 batteries down to the point that you get stranded

Richard_
I think boobook2 reply has been most helpful as well

I think it's a point of 6 of one and half a dozen of the other, whatever you're most comfortable with.

Cheers
Richard

are you winching with the engine off or something ?

Change to hydraulic or PTO then don't give it a second thought.

Yes it does. Is is actually a surepower unit.

The connector you want is the middle of the 3 little spade connectors.

http://www.toyota120.com/GenDocs/dualbattsep.pdf shows for a 1314-200 and 1315-200 but yours is the same pinout ( -200 means 200A)

If you wire it up to a switch to +12v it will over ride manually.

Note many ARB shops wire it to the ignition indicator like the picture. This is not ideal as you wont know that you have a flat starter untill too late ( it joins the 2 batterys till the engine is running after you turn the key to ingition)
Note like the Redarc, the 100A unit will take 300A surges, and the 200 A unit, 600A surges.