van levelling

shane
I think for a van of that size it would be no problems

Why do you do this instead of carrying a leveling ramp around with you

It seems like a difficult way to do it

Regards Don

We use plastic ramps on our 23 footer

My wife goes inside the van with a 12 inch plastic level & sits it crossways inside the freezer (2 door fridge) & as i run it up the ramps (in low range 2wd so it happen slowly) she tells me when it is level side to side with a hand held uhf

I then get out of the patrol,put the van park brake on,disconnect the vehicle & level it front to rear with the jockey wheel

With out old single axle van we used to use blocks of timber but as you said it is a pain but the plastic ramp gives anywher from o to 5 inches of lift if needed & you only have to do it once

Regards Don

We use plastic ramps on our 23 footer

My wife goes inside the van with a 12 inch plastic level & sits it crossways inside the freezer (2 door fridge) & as i run it up the ramps (in low range 2wd so it happen slowly) she tells me when it is level side to side with a hand held uhf

I then get out of the patrol,put the van park brake on,disconnect the vehicle & level it front to rear with the jockey wheel

With out old single axle van we used to use blocks of timber but as you said it is a pain but the plastic ramp gives anywhere from o to 5 inches of lift if needed & you only have to do it once

Regards Don

Shane, slightly OT, but did you end up dragging the van up the Strz / Cordillo? If so how did it go? JD

Shane
I presume that you leave the jockey wheel in place in the jacking hole for the entire stay. If so, the problem I see is that you are effectively placing the weight of that side of the van on the chassis at the jacking point for an extended period of time. The stabilisers are just that, stabilisers, they should not be considered weight bearing to any great extent. If you want to find out how strong they are just try and wind the van up with them after they take up the slack. You have removed the weight from the suspension which is designed to spread that weight over the distance between the u-bolts which attach the van to the suspension. You should also consider that although your van is only 14.6, when you open the bed/s out and insert their human occupants at night you are extending the radius of the load and creating a much greater downward pressure on that single axis point in the centre of the van. (sorry I can't remember if the Rapid has beds at both ends or only at the back). I appreciate that a proportion of the load is also being borne by the front jockey wheel but I have genuine concerns for the weight at the rear. Ask Roachie about carrying extra loads in the back!!!

tessa

Hi Shane,

I appreciate the comments of others but from my experience (we've lived & travelled in our van(s) more or less full time since 2002), your approach will cause no damage as long as you don't repeatedly try to lift the entire weight of one side on the modified jockey wheel (and I doubt you could anyway, with a standard mechanical wind-up type). Afterall, that's where most jacking points are for tyre changing...

If you're on such a side slope that the side jockey 'wheel' gets difficult to wind and the chassis starts a bit of creaking and groaning, then you're obviously trying to take too much weight and will need to put a block under the wheel (or better yet, convince the 'bride' to pick a better spot!). Raising one side a couple of inches will cause no drama at all IMHO.

Do be aware that doing any lifting/supporting at the rear spring hanger (behind the axle) will put a more weight on the front jockey wheel but, again, I'm sure it would not be a problem..

All caravan chassis do flex a bit when supported in any unusual way (e.g. supporting it on chassis stands when parked for long periods, etc.) so the biggest problem you're likely to find is that the door might go a little out of alignment if you have a fair bit of weight on your side support.

I'm sure you are aware of this (or maybe, like me, you've done it yourself?) but, remember to always wind-up/stow the corner stabilisers before moving either your side or front jockey 'wheels'...

Ian

Shane

You do not mention levelling the van for and aft before levelling side to side. I level my van side to side and then use the jockey stand (wheel) to level the van fore and aft. I can not see how to level the van both ways by your method. Out in the bush I don't use blocks, I use a small shovel and dig the wheel or wheels in on the high side. Much more stable that way.

As for your original question - With the length of your van there may not be much of a problem with one side supported at the ends and the other by the axle. Chassis are not completely solid items. There is a little bit of flexibility in them. Most of my vans have been on Preston chassis, these all have had a double chassis up to the front spring hanger. The 15' van had the door at the front and I did not see much flexing when over tightening the stands. However the 18' and 19' 6" (body length) ones have the door at the back end. Both of these, when you attempt to level the van side to side with the stands, the door is likely to jamb. It does not take much to flex the van to make a well fitting door catch on its door jamb.

As posters in earlier replies said, the stands are for steadying the van, not to jack it. You are much better levelling the van side to side with the axle and then fore and aft with the jockey wheel.

PeterD

thank all for replies, as no one seems to think there will be much of a problem ill keep doing it. i will pay attention to the doors and their squareness.
Just for the record, i level the van side to side then front to back.
cheers shane.