Bush Welding - Theres gotta be a better way!
Submitted: Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 18:36
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Member - Mick O (VIC)
On the recent expedition, Scotty and I were forced to try our hand at bush welding for the first time out on the Sandy Blight
Junction Track when a nasty crack appeared in the main frame of the trailer. Thankfully I’d utilised some info from past posts and invested 60 bucks putting together a bit of a kit prior to leaving. While we got the job done (and those welds were ugly!!) it was a real hit and miss affair, particularly in regulating the ampage.
Using three batteries gave us the 36 volts we needed but to strike and maintain a weld took some doing. We used three jumper cables joined end to end between batteries one and two as
well as earth placement and trimming the electrode down to try and regulate the ampage.
Can anyone suggest a method to either measure what ampage you’re getting at the electrode, perhaps an ammeter on a shunt somewhere, or is there some form of variable electrical thingo (my tech terms there) that is not expensive that could regulate the ampage between battery three and the rod? I’m very happy to try and construct something from the suggestions and test it.
Thanks. Mick.
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Reply By: Member - Ed. C. (QLD) - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 18:50
Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 18:50
If you had trouble striking and maintaining an arc, I'd suggest you had too much resistance in the cables connecting the batteries (1 & 2), & not allowing enough current (ampage) to flow... shoulda removed one o' them jumper cables and seen how ya went...
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Follow Up By: Member - Mick O (VIC) - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 19:04
Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 19:04
Thanks Ed. We did all of that. Tried every combination of 2 and three batteries, one, two and three leads etc etc. Not being a welder by any stretch of the imagination, it became very hard to strike a balance and then maintain that actual setting once reached. Heat in cables and rods caused fluctuations in a very short time. That's why I thought if there was someway to measure/read the amps or to regulate them with some resistor or electrical componant, you would stand a much better chance of maintaining a regular current.
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Follow Up By: Member - Ed. C. (QLD) - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 19:30
Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 19:30
Yeah, I know what ya mean (been there, done that;-)))
You do need to ensure that the earth return has good solid connections, both at the battery terminal, and where it's connected to the work.. similarly, the electrode connections..
you then "play with" the resistance level by varying the size/length of the battery inter-connecting cables.. not to mention the need for good clean metal where you're actually welding, but I'm sure you know that already;-)
It should be noted also, that general consensus is that DC welding is done "electrode negative", though I've tried both ways, & never really noticed any difference;-)
| Confucius say.....
"He who lie underneath automobile with tool in hand,
....Not necessarily mechanic!!"Member My Profile Send Message |
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Follow Up By: Member - Mick O (VIC) - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 19:37
Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 19:37
Thanks Ed. We set the job up as earth positive / electode negative. Thinking about it now, perhaps we might have had a better result if we'd put the cables between batteries two & three rather than one and two??? I've since heard that you can also get specific electrodes for DC or revrese polarity welding but they also said a good general purpose rod should hack both OK.
Mick
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Reply By: Member - Olcoolone (S.A) - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 19:02
Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 19:02
Yeah you can buy an adjustable air or
water cool rheostat but not to sure of price....I would expect $500.00+ and you can get them quite small around 300mm X 300mm X 300mm should handle the load.
Remember you are dealing with 600 plus amps so a welding rod is trying to be a fuse.
I would just keep using what you are using at the moment.
Or buy a 2 plus Kva generator and a small 140 amp inverter stick welder.
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Follow Up By: Member - Mick O (VIC) - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 19:06
Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 19:06
Yeah the 2 KVa gennie and welder I have in the shed but they are bulky to carry that's why I thought I might be able to improve on this system.
Cheers. Mick
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Follow Up By: Member - AJB (VIC) - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 19:27
Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 19:27
Do you reckon a 2KVA would run a 140amp Inverter? I think maybe a 5KVA or perhaps 2/2KVA linked but even then the Inverter would not like it too much.
Inverter welders are not bulky to carry but whether you can use them with a small power supply is the problem.
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Follow Up By: Member - Olcoolone (S.A) - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 21:48
Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 21:48
2 Kva will run an inverter 140 amp stick welder.
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Follow Up By: Zapper - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 23:48
Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 23:48
My 140 amp inverter stalls my 2.5kva honda generator. doesnt even go close really. Would say you would need closer to 5kva
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Reply By: Member - Paul C (NSW) - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 19:17
Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 19:17
Tell me you weren't welding with oxy goggles as that's how the photo looks.
Your eyes must be sore.
To measure the amps put an ammeter in line with the load. This will only measure what you're pulling.
To vary the amps you need to either adjust your voltage or your load.The rheostat suggestion fits the bill.
When you trimmed the rod,was there enough flux left at the end to start your weld?
Are you striking a match and keeping a small gap between rod and job?
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Follow Up By: Member - Mick O (VIC) - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 19:25
Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 19:25
Paul,
had to use what we had unfortunately. Gas goggles with two pairs of sunnies underneath. No sore eyes. Short cycles with a wait for the equipment to cool. Yes to the flux.
Cheers and thanks. Mick
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Follow Up By: Member - Paul C (NSW) - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 19:45
Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 19:45
Probably time to invest in a good bucket or welding lens at least!
Shade 10 or 11.
If you're really struggling to strike an arc, easy way is to get a an arc going on a scrap piece (of course you'll have one of these handy in the middle of nowhere) and get
the tip orange or red hot then go at the job asap.
GP's are just that General Purpose. For structural welds you're better off with Low Hydrogen like ferrocrat or the like.
Stating the obvious I know but could be worth practicing at home.
Cheers
Paul
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Follow Up By: Member - Mick O (VIC) - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 19:57
Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 19:57
Having nil experience in any form of welding Paul, I enrolled in a 10 night, "learn to weld" course at the local TAFE college earlier in the year. While I left in disgust half way through (instructer was useless), it was good for stick welding as that's all he had us doing for 4 hours a night for five weeks. I intend practising and improving the DC welding in the garage here which has led to the post. Hopefully I can improve my skills. The problem is I suppose, (and there's no control for it) is that there are so many variables that effect welding in the "bush" situation like cables, temperature, quality, age and condition of the batteries & rods etc etc. We can but try though.
Thanks, Mick.
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Follow Up By: Member - Footloose - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 20:36
Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 20:36
Mick, although I have the gear for bush welding and son is in the trade, I have never needed to learn it (fingers crossed).
I think it would be a nightmare out in the bush. My son rekkons that since I do a lot of soldering, that I'd pick it up pretty quickly (I can't see the connection ).
Heaven help me when I really need to weld the vehicle out in the bush.
I rekkon I'm another candidate for the "try this before you leave home."
As long as the son isn't around to kill himself laughing and telling me I'll never get my international licenses etc etc. I should be right...maybe :))
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Follow Up By: Member - Mick O (VIC) - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 22:04
Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 22:04
My first time too Footy. We were a bit frightened after the first two touches blew holes in the steel so had to stop and think about it for a while and start experimenting. Whilst our efforts ran hot and cold, Scotty got some good penetrating welds underneath putting in a short plate for reinforcing. I'll be interested to see just how
well we did when I cut it off to rebeuild and strengthen the trailer.
Cheers. Mick
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Follow Up By: Member - Footloose - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 22:13
Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 22:13
Blew holes in the steel !
That's it ! You just talked me out of welding anything LOL
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Follow Up By: Member - Mick O (VIC) - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 22:38
Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 22:38
Yeah mate we were worried. Scotty had managed to drill a hole at the top of the crack using a self tapping screw, a phillips head and a lot of patience. We got everything hooked up and the took aim at the area at the base of the crack...Phht. Found ourselves looking at a hole the size of a cigarette burn right below the hole we'd drilled. Oops. That's when the leads and batteries began getting varied. Also did a few preliminary welds on other brackets that needed a touch up and on some spare bits of angle.Image Could Not Be Found
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Got us home to
Alice Springs where we got hold of a Mig and a mate shored it up further with some extra plate.
I'd prefer not to have had to try it but there is an immense amount of satisfaction in overcoming the hurdle. I think that's what half the fun is in outback travel. I'll have to tell you about the sidewall repairs using lilo rubber, gaffertape and superglue!
Cheers. Mick.
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Follow Up By: Member - Footloose - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 22:46
Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 22:46
Now the gaffer tape I can handle. I never go bush without 3 rolls. Two for me and one for those I help along the way.
Your sidewall repairs sound a bit like
mine..in my nightmares LOL
I am in awe of bush mechanics. The ability to weld and improvise is always necessary just over the next corro I rekkon.
So far I haven't been unlucky or adventourous enough to need much...but with an older vehicle the time to learn is about now I rekkon.
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Follow Up By: Member No 1- Tuesday, Aug 12, 2008 at 08:54
Tuesday, Aug 12, 2008 at 08:54
footy...take silicone as
well.....duct tape and silicone can build houses
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Reply By: Member - Scott & Gaby (Canada) - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 20:23
Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 20:23
Maybe a better welder at the stick end.
Scottie
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Follow Up By: Member - Mick O (VIC) - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 22:01
Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 22:01
Make that two better welders Scottie! Ratbag. Glad to see you got home safe and sound.
M.
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Reply By: Peter 2 - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 20:43
Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 20:43
Put a short (300mm) length of normal automotive wire with the insulation removed in the lead to the electrode.
It will get bloody hot so you need to suspend it in the air and keep anything away from it.
Amps are adjusted by removing individual strands to get the right resistance.
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Follow Up By: Member - Mick O (VIC) - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 22:16
Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 22:16
Now that's an idea Peter. How would you go with a grouping of thinner wires, say 4 or 5 and remove or add one complete wire accordingly? You could put them between two vice grips, suspending one off the wooden shovel handle. Will definitly give that a try.
Thanks. Mick
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Reply By: Member - bungarra (WA) - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 21:06
Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 21:06
G'day Mick
Always difficult to diagnose for others from affair and in retrospect.
But here are a couple of things that I have experienced over the years...maybe there are some minor differences here that may get some thoughts and feedback
Rudall River some years ago...broken both main leaf springs on a trailer..used 2 batteries, earth positive but with "weldall electrodes"...I preheated
the springs in the campfire before welding....also supported the leafs either side of the weld....with purpose made flat bar brackets bolted on (straddled either side of spring) that I made up and carry just in case......my jumper leads are very heavy welding cable and I didnt find the need to fiddle with the amps......I carried the gear for years and never got around to testing the theory until I had to........ I am however a competent welder in 240v and from memory I was able to strike and carry the ark easily ..but recall breaking the run and starting again frequently...as it was getting too hot...the welds assisted by the clamps held successfully...got me 3,000k's home
A couple of years ago I purchased a 12 /24v MIg welder and once again never got around to trying it out...just relied on my welding expertise should the need arise.........this year on the GRR I assisted a chap whose spring hanger had gone....and so its first test was seroius repairs.........biggest trouble was the lack of light it generates when welding (common for MIG when compared to stick) and a few times the welds were not where they were supposed to be !...they were untidy but very hot penetrating welds.......using 0.9 wire.........in future i will make certain that I have an extra light source aimed at the job to ensure the bead is where you think it is.!!
I always carry a welding glass wrapped in something protective and snug in an old Benson & hedges tobacco tin (probably a collectors item itself)...for a mask I simply cut a hole in a breakfast cereal packet and looking like Ned Kelly but it works
maybe my heavy welding / jumper leads (3m in length each) contributed to the stick success?....
just my experiences if they are of interest
cheers
Bungarra
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Follow Up By: Member - Mick O (VIC) - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 22:22
Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 22:22
Thanks Bungarra. Was that one of the little Mig units similar to the one ARB peddle? Obviously you were impressed with the results. I have a glass at home and that's where it remained. You always forget to pack something! Could only find a pair of gas goggles to replace it (hoping of course that I'd never have to use it....right!). Might have a look at one of those little Mig units before the next big trip. Could you give me some details on yours (Brand and where you'd get it from).
Thanks mate. Mick.
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Follow Up By: Member - bungarra (WA) - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 22:43
Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 22:43
Mick
it is a "ReadyWelder" made in USA. I purchased it from a Queensland welding supplier but have since seen them advertised by an off road
shop in SA and it may have been ARB
have also seen them on ebay at times direct from America...
there are a couple of different versions...hot tip always just like a stick welder..the trigger controls the wire speed but
the tip is always hot...and also a newer version that is more like the conventional MIg...trigger controls wire feed and current
any more details wanted let me know or mm me
cheers
g
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Reply By: Willem - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 21:07
Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 21:07
Mick
I watched one of our crew reweld a wheel carrier bracket out in the GSD this year. Used my aux battery and one other. We also had a genset and an angle grinder to clean up job. Though not a welder by profession I think that John has some experience in welding as he did a near perfect job...only to proclaim that this was his very first DC welding in the bush!!!
I have all the right gear and hope it will work for me should the need arise!
Cheers
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Follow Up By: Member - Mick O (VIC) - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 22:12
Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 22:12
G'day Willem.
I should have remembered rule no.1 for outback difficulties. Set up chair in shady spot and crack the top off a refreshing beverage. Time proven fact that someone with a hell of a lot more experience (and a better tool kit) than me will appear over the sandhill in time for the 2nd drink! lol.
Cheers. Mick
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Follow Up By: Member - extfilm (NSW) - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 22:35
Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 22:35
oh what memories :)
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Peter
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Follow Up By: Member - Mick O (VIC) - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 22:40
Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 22:40
Nice. Love the work. Must take him on the next trip I think!
Cheers. Mick.
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Follow Up By: Member - Mick O (VIC) - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 22:43
Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 22:43
Yes and did note chairs and possible refreshing beverages in the background of "The weld" photo! Good to see the audience was no doubt appreciative of the performance lol.
Mick.
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Follow Up By: Willem - Tuesday, Aug 12, 2008 at 08:43
Tuesday, Aug 12, 2008 at 08:43
Thanks Peter
I was looking for those photos last night....lol
Cheers
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Reply By: Mrbrush - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 21:16
Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 21:16
I`m no expert either but can weld reasonable at home.
But just a thought did you try different sized rods ?
A 2.5mm rod only needs around 90amps to run.
When I went to the cape I brought a range of rods and the stick holder off my welder, and threw a welding helmet glass in the glovebox. But never had to use it.
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Follow Up By: Member - Mick O (VIC) - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 22:00
Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 22:00
Thanks Brushy. Yes we tried 2.5's but settled on a large rod that then got trimmed to half it's length. Seemed to work better than the 2.5. Was carrying a range of sizes.
Cheers. Mick
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Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 21:46
Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 21:46
Gday Mick,
We've had to weld a couple of times in the bush - once for a broken axle near
Mount Finke and once for a broken rear axle control arm on a Prado on the
Madigan line.
3 batteries worked
well - too many herbs really, but in short bursts, was all good. We prefer to use good gear - I take the handpiece and cable off
my home welder, a full welding mask, two short leads for joining batteries, and use the jumper lead for the earth. Assorted rods, but only really use the GP 2.5mm. All this makes up a small package.
I think practice counts for a heap. Anyone who builds stuff with an arc welder will have a huge head start on how to prepare the material and strike and hold an arc. I take some fencing wire to reduce amps (vary the length), but haven't used it.
Cheers
phil
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Follow Up By: Member - Mick O (VIC) - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 22:09
Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 22:09
Agree totally Phil. Good gear certainly helps. I'd gotten good quality welding cable, earth clamp and a handpiece from the local welding supply place and then attached battery terminal clamps to the cable ends. Three batteries was often too strong but then you really needed more than the 24 volts to keep it going. We certainly noticed the difference in heating between the welding cable and the jumper leads. I had two good, heavy duty cables and one, lighter jumper cable that got red hot and had to be rested more frequently.
Cheers. Mick
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Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 23:05
Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 23:05
Sounds like you had the good stuff!
By the way, your trip reports were great - thanks for sharing them, and updating the conditions out there.
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Follow Up By: Member - Mick O (VIC) - Tuesday, Aug 12, 2008 at 13:28
Tuesday, Aug 12, 2008 at 13:28
No worries & thanks Phil. Still tidying a few more up that I'll put up (Rudall, Eagle-Calverts etc) in the coming week or so. Just wish I was still out there
Cheers
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Reply By: Member - Duncan W (WA) - Tuesday, Aug 12, 2008 at 00:08
Tuesday, Aug 12, 2008 at 00:08
Mick won't offer any advice as I haven't done any welding since high school. Was pretty good back then from memory. This subject though is a worthy topic
well worth further discussion.
Bush welding may affect us all at some time in our travels. Has anybody seen or heard of say one of the 4WD accessory retailers running a bush "survival course" that includes a bit of bush mechanics and welding.
I'm sure that if somebody ran one it would be
well attended. I'd
sign up on
the spot.
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Reply By: Richard Kovac - Tuesday, Aug 12, 2008 at 00:54
Tuesday, Aug 12, 2008 at 00:54
Mick. good to hear you made it..
Welding, metal work not that easy!
Took me 4 years learn how to do it and 30 year later I'm still learning. LOL
Have never had to do it in the bush, but as everyone is saying it will only get better.. :-)
Richard
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Reply By: Member - Mfewster(SA) - Tuesday, Aug 12, 2008 at 08:21
Tuesday, Aug 12, 2008 at 08:21
I haqve no welding skills, or equipment, whatsoever. My easier way for doing joining jobs in the bush is a Clamp-it. I have seen some astonishing repairs done with these and a bit of ingenuity. Not sure that it would have dealt with this problem, but I think the bigger model might have managed it, as long as you had another piece of steel from somewhere to "splint"along the frame.
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Reply By: jdwynn (Adelaide) - Tuesday, Aug 12, 2008 at 17:55
Tuesday, Aug 12, 2008 at 17:55
Mick
You might be interested in this.
bush welding
When I look at this site, one concern I have is affect on / precautions needed to protect car computer and to stop fuel igniting etc. Just couldnt imagine welding on car itself.
cheers JD
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Follow Up By: Member - Mick O (VIC) - Tuesday, Aug 12, 2008 at 18:29
Tuesday, Aug 12, 2008 at 18:29
Thanks JD. Had already seen it. I had a print out of it with me on the trip as a reference.
Cheers. Mick
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Reply By: Ken S - Thursday, Aug 14, 2008 at 08:35
Thursday, Aug 14, 2008 at 08:35
In Bill Andrews book Explore Australia's Great Inland ISBN 0-86777-071-6 Bill writes on page nine as regards a portable welder " there is a excellent one on the market that weigh's only a kilo and runs off a car battery "but unfortunatly he doesn't give any further details as far as brand or where it was available !
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