Patrol oil catch can

Submitted: Friday, Aug 22, 2008 at 18:13
ThreadID: 60990 Views:14904 Replies:6 FollowUps:9
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Hi all fitted a compressor oil air seperator to the zd3lt patrol today for a oil catch can same setup as Chaze's I think.
Unit cost $90 deliverd then about $70 for hoses two sizes 1/2"& 5/8" ,clamps, fittings easy job so hope she's all good.

Cheers Lyle
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Reply By: Chaz - Friday, Aug 22, 2008 at 21:48

Friday, Aug 22, 2008 at 21:48
Well done Hunter40,

They do a good job. Just be sure to seal off the drain because they are designed to work under pressure, which we don’t have. I just remove the bowel and tip it back into the engine. Definitely works better than a conventional catch can.
Cheers,
Chaz
AnswerID: 321789

Follow Up By: hunter40 - Saturday, Aug 23, 2008 at 08:04

Saturday, Aug 23, 2008 at 08:04
Hi Chaz

It's a CDK - 1137-4C-B they now have a screw drain on them as well as the mounting bracket, I brought mine from Mechlec Automation Ph 03 93180014.
Now I have the the catch can ,the earth strap is done have a digital pryo meter, turbo timer is there any other mods that you recommend.
My 12/2003 patrol has 120000km and it is running like champion
(NO to others that have their 2 bobs worth I won't be changing vehicles )

Cheers Lyle
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FollowupID: 588704

Follow Up By: Chaz - Saturday, Aug 23, 2008 at 09:52

Saturday, Aug 23, 2008 at 09:52
Hi Lyle,

There is a lot more you can do to improve your engine for longevity. It just depends how far you want to go and some suggested mods may not be legal.
I would strongly suggest fitting a boost gauge and if you regularly see over 18psi, lower your boost. At the risk of being shot down, I think blocking the EGR is probably the best thing you could do for your motor and you’ll feel the difference immediately after. Also, your oil will stay clean for 10K. Run fully synthetic oil, preferably Mobil Delvac1. Fit an electric fuel pump to supply the diesel injection pump. This lowers EGT’s (don’t ask me how) and ensures a constant supply of fuel to the IP and lift pump. An intercooler fan is another worthwhile mod, but mainly gives benefits when doing low speed off road work. If you have manual boost control or a boost limiter fitted, a free flowing exhaust can be a big benefit, but on a stock engine it can cause overboosting. There is much more that can be done and I haven’t finished with mine yet, but most of what I have already done is HERE on my site.
Cheers,
Chaz
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FollowupID: 588722

Follow Up By: hunter40 - Sunday, Aug 24, 2008 at 10:34

Sunday, Aug 24, 2008 at 10:34
Hi Chaz,
Mate I forgot to mention that I have a 2 3/4 mandrel bent exhaust as well a DPChip that I have set on 7 also a Cav water/fuel separator looking at your picture it is in the same place, could you please tell me more on the one way valve you fitted as they a bit of a mongrel to bleed.
Could you also post some photos an instructions on how to block the EGR can this be a stand alone mod as I will get the boost gauge further down the track don't want to get to carried away as I still have 18 months warranty so any mods I do I want to be able to change back easy and fast in case.
If you like I can send you my email address

Cheers Lyle
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FollowupID: 588857

Follow Up By: Chaz - Sunday, Aug 24, 2008 at 19:00

Sunday, Aug 24, 2008 at 19:00
Lyle,

Get yourself over to the Nissan Patrol Forum where you’ll get all the info you’ll need to go about making the correct mods to your ZD30 Patrol.
Download this reference document by Patrol Forum member aksniss. It’s a gold mine of information and contains a section on blocking EGR.

I’m not sure what you mean about a one way valve, but if you’re referring to the ball valve on my fuel filter housing, it’s there to check fuel pressure and for bleeding. My fuel system is fed by an electric pump at the main tank, which supplies fuel to the water separator and the filter. The Walbro electric pump comes on with ignition and primes the system every time I start the car. I bleed the fuel system after changing a filter, by fitting a small clear plastic tube onto the barb on top of the ball valve and putting it into a small jar of diesel fuel. I then open the ball valve and turn on the ignition until air bubbles stop coming out of the tube, then just turn off the valve and remove the tube. Bleeding the fuel system takes just a few seconds and because my fuel lines are under pressure, there is no way any air can get into the fuel system.
If you want to discuss anything off the forum, you can email me at chaz at conody dot com.

Cheers,
Chaz
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FollowupID: 588939

Reply By: Michael ( Moss Vale NSW) - Friday, Aug 22, 2008 at 22:19

Friday, Aug 22, 2008 at 22:19
Whaa Whaa What are you guys on about?? Whats an oil catch can??
AnswerID: 321794

Follow Up By: Chaz - Saturday, Aug 23, 2008 at 01:05

Saturday, Aug 23, 2008 at 01:05
Michael,

A lot of people use oil catch cans on high pressure turbo engines to trap the excess oil in the crankcase ventilation system before it gets into the intake system. ZD30 Patrols have a lot of oil in their intake as a result of an inferior oil separator in the top of the engine and a high pressure crankcase system due to the high levels of boost that they run. Keeping oil out of the intake is a good thing because oil can contribute to premature MAF, turbo and ultimately engine failure. Most commercially available oil catch cans don’t do the job well enough, but the Air/Oil Separator on an industrial compressor should do a better job of it.

Many ZD30 Patrol owners complain of their intercoolers leaking oil. Why should they have oil in them? Nissan say’s its normal, but when that oil mixes with EGR gases in the inlet manifold, it forms a thick black grease that can partially block the inlet, causing some cylinders to run rich, resulting in piston meltdown.
I think it’s cheap insurance if you own a ZD30 Patrol. THIS is how I did mine.

Chaz


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FollowupID: 588694

Reply By: Michael ( Moss Vale NSW) - Saturday, Aug 23, 2008 at 07:28

Saturday, Aug 23, 2008 at 07:28
Thanks for that Chaz, i hadnt heard of that at all.. Ive learnt something today.. Michael
AnswerID: 321806

Reply By: Tasrat - Saturday, Aug 23, 2008 at 09:40

Saturday, Aug 23, 2008 at 09:40
Hey Kyle that's very interesting stuff. Just been talking to my mechanic about catch can for mine (ZD3.0) This sounds a lot better. Would like a step by step if you could find the time, or diagram,( not being familiar with this) Also what exact unit did you fit and where available?
Hope you can help. This is on the top of my list as I've just rep-laced the turbo and do not want to do it again!
Cheers Paul
AnswerID: 321816

Follow Up By: Tasrat - Saturday, Aug 23, 2008 at 09:43

Saturday, Aug 23, 2008 at 09:43
Sorry Lyle not Kyle. Just read the specs on the next email but still would appreciate fitment details.
Cheers Paul
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FollowupID: 588720

Follow Up By: hunter40 - Saturday, Aug 23, 2008 at 15:08

Saturday, Aug 23, 2008 at 15:08
Hi Paul,
No worries the unit is a CDK - 1137-4C-B it has a screw drain on them as well as the mounting bracket, I brought mine from Mechlec Automation Ph 03 93180014.
It is fitted on the L/hand side same as Chaz's unfortunely I don't think that I can't upload photo's as a visitor so if you would like some give me your email address and I can send some it took me a couple of hours to fit by the time I worked out where to fit and getting the wrong size hose the first time round.
And I asure you it is a easy job to do the hardest part is working out where you are going to fit it, the unit is about the same size as your fuel filter

1) Motor to separator requires 1 x 1/2" threaded tail barb ( I used a straight one) and 2x hose clamps depending where you fit it you will also need that size hose you also have to cut a piece out of the motor cover for this hose which is easy enough to to do as you have to take the cover off to fit hose.

2)On the other side of the separator to the air cleaner you will need 1 x 5/8 threaded tail barb (I used a 90 degree Elbow) and 2x hose clamps and 5/8 hose. For this side I brought a clear hose so I can monitor it for a while and latter I will replace it and I fit proper oil hose to it

I brought all my fittings and hoses from the hose doctor I just took the separator in with me to make sure of thread sizes.
if you need any more info or photos just send me your email
Cheers Lyle
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FollowupID: 588752

Reply By: Tasrat - Sunday, Aug 24, 2008 at 15:26

Sunday, Aug 24, 2008 at 15:26
Thanks for all that Lyle. Will order on Monday and see how we go.
If I get stuck I'll drop a line.
Cheers Paul
AnswerID: 321983

Follow Up By: hunter40 - Sunday, Aug 24, 2008 at 17:38

Sunday, Aug 24, 2008 at 17:38
No worries mate let us know how you get on anyway, just a quick note these units are made in Japan Tony the bloke that I brought from just got a shipment in last week he was great to deal with it must be a common request as he new what I was talking about using it for. He also said that he had a few on his books waiting for them to come in. I live in Rockhampton QLD and I couldn't find anything local (Hardware's,Compressor shops ect..)
Cheers Lyle
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FollowupID: 588924

Reply By: Tasrat - Tuesday, Sep 02, 2008 at 22:01

Tuesday, Sep 02, 2008 at 22:01
G'day Lyle, oil separator arrived today, Tony very helpfull, now to see if I can make it work. Might give you a hoy if I get stuck if that's ok.
Cheers Paul
AnswerID: 323544

Follow Up By: hunter40 - Wednesday, Sep 03, 2008 at 18:58

Wednesday, Sep 03, 2008 at 18:58
No worries mate any dramas just sing out and I can some pics if you like. I have only done a couple of hundred k's since fitted so I checked it on the weekend the filter inside was a little black but the bowl was empty pulled the hoses off while car was running and you can see the vapour mist from engine side and I have clear hose (which I will change on the 5000k oil change to proper oil hose) on the air cleaner side no oil in it so yeh I think it is a good thing.
Cheers Lyle
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FollowupID: 590768

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