soldering
Submitted: Tuesday, Aug 26, 2008 at 09:29
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oz doc
Hi Guys, another question. Have an extension lead for the engel fridge, which was made up by the 12 volt
shop. Unfortunately the plug got squashed and I had to replace it. Neighbour kindly offered to solder the wire to the new plug pins(it is a screw in two paralell pin plug), however the solder would not stick to the pins. Neighbour said something about needing a different type of solder - I think he mentioned 'silver solder'. Can anyone educate me as to what I'm looking for?ta. doc
Reply By: DIO - Tuesday, Aug 26, 2008 at 09:31
Tuesday, Aug 26, 2008 at 09:31
Take it to someone who knows what they are doing. Perhaps an Auto Electrician.
AnswerID:
322236
Follow Up By: Member - Glenn D (NSW) - Tuesday, Aug 26, 2008 at 13:46
Tuesday, Aug 26, 2008 at 13:46
Is eating out your answer to not burning toast ?
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589268
Reply By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Tuesday, Aug 26, 2008 at 10:31
Tuesday, Aug 26, 2008 at 10:31
The parts to be soldered need to be clean and (preferrably) "scuffed" with a file etc.....this will provide the solder with a means of "biting".
The 2 parts to be soldered together need to be tinned with solder firstly, then bring the 2 parts together (hold with tweezers or needle-nosed plyers etc) and then heat applied again to the job/joint. This will melt the solder so that you get a firm joint.
Silver solder requires a lot higher heat input and you stand a very good risk of melting anything/everything around the joint. I doubt the job would require silver solder.
If possible, use a heat-sink near any plastic parts to prevent the heat getting into them.
Good luck.
Roachie (who is a self-taught solderer of over 500 model locomtive kits in HO scale).... hahaha
AnswerID:
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Follow Up By: Member No 1- Tuesday, Aug 26, 2008 at 12:43
Tuesday, Aug 26, 2008 at 12:43
Roachie...tell him the hard stuff..like tinning......getting it to take depends on flux and or strength of flux
silver solder comes in many guises
from 2% - 56% silver
5, 15 and 45% are the norm and depending on metals being brazed may require a flux and oxy preferably but gan be done with gas torch. Higher silver content is used for materials such brass to steel.....ie use 45%
15% for copper to copper (with out flux if clean) ....can use 5% but 15% is easier to use and flows better
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Follow Up By: Member No 1- Tuesday, Aug 26, 2008 at 12:45
Tuesday, Aug 26, 2008 at 12:45
we forgot to tell him...soldering makes for a brittle joint which can lead to premature failure
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589256
Reply By: Splits - Tuesday, Aug 26, 2008 at 12:17
Tuesday, Aug 26, 2008 at 12:17
oz doc
The last time I used silver solder was at TAFE years ago and it was applied with an oxy welding torch. That would not do your plug any good at all.
What Roachie said is right. It is easy if you know what you are doing and should only take seconds. It also sounds complicated when explained in writing and it is if you are not experienced. It is far too easy to end up with a "dry joint" and loss of electrical contact later on if you don't know what you are doing.
I suggest you follow DIO's advice.
Brian
AnswerID:
322255
Reply By: Member - Graham H (QLD) - Tuesday, Aug 26, 2008 at 12:35
Tuesday, Aug 26, 2008 at 12:35
Im with Roachie on this You need to coat both pieces with solder first then just melt the two together.
I use Savabit No 6 Tin/lead/copper .90mm cored solder on all my electronic bits and never have a problem.
Some types of multistrand wire are hard to coat as they seem to have a coating on them that prevents soldering. Mostly found on telephone wire. Electrical wire is easy.
Buy a small roll or tube at Tricky Dicky
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Reply By: Member - Glenn D (NSW) - Tuesday, Aug 26, 2008 at 13:38
Tuesday, Aug 26, 2008 at 13:38
Hows it going Doc,
Sounds like the job is not hot enough !
If you are using a flux core solder this should work ok.
Here is some basic info
How to solder
Hoe this helps you out .
Glenn.
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Reply By: Michael ( Moss Vale NSW) - Tuesday, Aug 26, 2008 at 14:10
Tuesday, Aug 26, 2008 at 14:10
Sounds to me like the iron was too small so not enough heat and or the parts to be tinned and soldered were not clean.... Michael
AnswerID:
322279
Reply By: oz doc - Tuesday, Aug 26, 2008 at 14:33
Tuesday, Aug 26, 2008 at 14:33
Hi guys, thanks for the replies. Sounds like there is more to this soldering gig than I thought. I think my neighbour did try what you advised- ie coating both bits with some solder first then trying to make the final join etc. The solder just wouldnt stick to the little tabs coming from the plastic socket. I was toying with the idea of adding a 12 volt soldering iron to my campers toolbox but after the above discussions - I think I will give it a miss. Might be time to change to a different socket and see if I can attach it with some simple crimp/clamps instead. I'd take it to the auto sparky up here but they are booked out 2 weeks in advance an I doubt they would be interested in such a small job.Thanks again. Doc.
AnswerID:
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Follow Up By: HGMonaro - Tuesday, Aug 26, 2008 at 15:54
Tuesday, Aug 26, 2008 at 15:54
I took a soldering iron (240V) with me on a trip and it came in use... fixed a friend TV connections... that made him happy, cause the kids were happy, which made the wife happy!
A button battery is the hardest thing to get solder to stick to.
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Follow Up By: Patrolman Pat - Tuesday, Aug 26, 2008 at 20:19
Tuesday, Aug 26, 2008 at 20:19
I carry a butane powered soldering iron, I prefer it to 12 and 240V ones.
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Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Wednesday, Aug 27, 2008 at 08:15
Wednesday, Aug 27, 2008 at 08:15
I'm with you Pat, I have one that I carry, wrapped in a cloth and stuffed into an old plastic chamois cannister. Can either use it like a conventional iron (with a tip), or remove
the tip and have a small naked flame.
Roachie
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Reply By: Louie the fly (SA) - Tuesday, Aug 26, 2008 at 20:08
Tuesday, Aug 26, 2008 at 20:08
Maybe he didn't use resin cored solder. No flux - no stick. Soldering is not that hard; anyone can learn it (apart from maybe people with no hands I spose).
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Reply By: Member - Serg (VIC) - Tuesday, Aug 26, 2008 at 21:33
Tuesday, Aug 26, 2008 at 21:33
Forget it. Just get proper “solderable” plug. Much cheaper.
Cheers
Serg
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322357
Follow Up By: oz doc - Wednesday, Aug 27, 2008 at 08:03
Wednesday, Aug 27, 2008 at 08:03
Hi Serg, you are probalbly right. The plug I have isn't lending itself to being soldered. Only problem is plugs are thin on the ground up here. Tried calling the 12volt
shop and getting an alternative sent up, but they won't take credit card payment over the phone. This relatively 'small' job is fast turning into a 'mission'. doc.
FollowupID:
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Follow Up By: Ozboc - Wednesday, Aug 27, 2008 at 09:16
Wednesday, Aug 27, 2008 at 09:16
There is a member on here that sells electrical gear for
camping and 4x4 --
best bet would be to contact him --- can remember his contact details at the moment -- sure he will pop up :)
Boc
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