FJ40 Not Starting

Submitted: Monday, Sep 29, 2008 at 21:46
ThreadID: 62136 Views:7506 Replies:14 FollowUps:13
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Hi Guys,

I have a 1972 FJ40 and it wont start start.. I Suspect the starter motor but im not sure. When i turn the key i just here a loud CLICK. then when i release the key the click releases.

I decided it would be a good idea to feel where the click was coming from and im pretty sure it was the starter motor which is down low on the left hand side of the engine towards the cabin of the car.

Does it sound right that it could be the starter motor?

If you guys suspect it may be stater motor related also where could i get another one new/old? I live in Melbourne.
Even if i could purchase online im not fused.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks guys

Justin B
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Reply By: dan and leah - Monday, Sep 29, 2008 at 22:10

Monday, Sep 29, 2008 at 22:10
go to an auto sparky ,probably cost 80-100 bucks
AnswerID: 327715

Follow Up By: beccsptyltd - Monday, Sep 29, 2008 at 22:17

Monday, Sep 29, 2008 at 22:17
Yeah i would love too, but the problem is it wont run so id have to tow it there. The whole car needs a look over as it hasnt been started for probably about a year. Would LOVE to just be able to get her started so i could take her to a mechanic and get her all fixed up good as new.
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FollowupID: 595037

Reply By: dan and leah - Monday, Sep 29, 2008 at 22:11

Monday, Sep 29, 2008 at 22:11
go to an auto sparky ,probably cost 80-100 bucks
AnswerID: 327716

Reply By: Member - Serg (VIC) - Monday, Sep 29, 2008 at 22:30

Monday, Sep 29, 2008 at 22:30
Most likely solenoid inside starter motor. Take it out and clean thoughtfully. Also could be bad contacts (rusted and oxidized) from battery to solenoid. If battery also has not been used for a year, it could be way too weak to turn engine.

Cheers
Serg
AnswerID: 327719

Reply By: Member - Mark G (NSW) - Monday, Sep 29, 2008 at 22:30

Monday, Sep 29, 2008 at 22:30
beccsptyltd

that click could be the battery power very low......... check it first.

if thats not the problem, get someone to turn the key while you hold your hand across the solenoid( the smaller cylinder on the side of the starter) to feel the 'click',cheers.
AnswerID: 327720

Reply By: Peter 2 - Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 06:20

Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 06:20
If battery power is ok ans the click appears to be the solenoid, give it a firm "tap" with a hammer and try again, they stick when old and dirty.
Alternatively disconnect the battery, remove the starter motor and take it to the auto leckie.
AnswerID: 327736

Reply By: Mikee5 (Logan QLD) - Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 08:21

Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 08:21
First check the battery, this loud click is a strong sign that the battery is too flat to turn the motor over. Also check the battery terminals for corrosion/dirt - clean them thoroughly. If that doesn't work you may have a burnt copper contact inside the solonoid (a common problem with these old girls) - this has been covered on another thread recently here. Once with mine the problem turned out to be corrosion inside the positive wire from the battery to the starter motor which could not be seen, I was stopped on the side of the road and a guy pulled up to help - he cut into this wire and it was full of green corrosion and almost no wire left. If it is an original 1972 model - use the crank handle to start it and dump the starter motor LOL.
AnswerID: 327749

Follow Up By: beccsptyltd - Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 08:30

Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 08:30
Hey Guys, Yeah look the battery is not in the BEST condition of its life but it is holding a charge. My first thought was battery, so i hooked up the jumper leads to my other car and then tried to start and it was still just clicking..

I have poured hot water over the terminals to get rid of corrosion and all that white build up. Where is the crank handle kept? im not even sure it came with one.. But yeah its completely original in pretty good condition, few spots of rust but no biggy :)

Thanks for all your help people and ill try a few recommended things today!
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FollowupID: 595067

Follow Up By: Member - Mark G (NSW) - Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 09:34

Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 09:34
beccsptyltd

if you have to jump start it try putting the jumper cables directly onto the pos/neg terminals of the starter motor ( this gives it a full charge from the other battery)
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FollowupID: 595078

Follow Up By: beccsptyltd - Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 09:42

Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 09:42
Hey guys, well i got her to attempt to turn over anyways :)

Took out the starter solinoid and cleaned her out with a tooth brush and some switch cleaning solution.

It appears to only be turning over VERY slowly like the fan blade might do a rotation in 2-3seconds..

I have just bought her a new battery and will see how that goes but id imagine that if jump starting only makes it spin that slow then a new battery wont be any different.

I noticed the starting capacitor (cant remember its proper name) is getting REALLY HOT! like touch it and it hurts hot. I'm guessing this could be due to me trying to start it a lot, lol.

As is hasn't been started for ages i thought that maybe things were just a little tight and seized up so i thought trying to keep it turning over might be a good thing.

I have no real way to see if there is spark happening but the cap is deff outputting a few thousand volts.

But atleast she is beggining to turn over now :) Its all happening :)

Cannot wait to get this baby fired up.

It was actually my fathers car who he gave it to my older brother who then in tern gave it too me after it had stopped working! :(

But from what my brother tells me it did just sound like a flat battery (he's not very technically minded, he's a graphic design, nuff said)

But yeah thank you guys for all your help and if you can think of anything else that may be causing my baby not too start then please let me know!

thanks guys! all of you are legends!
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FollowupID: 595080

Reply By: Mikee5 (Logan QLD) - Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 10:33

Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 10:33
If there was a crank handle it should be held in spring clips on the LHS side in the back along with the two piece jack handle. The jack should be there too behind the front seat.
Try the other suggestion here - to get the positive jumper lead onto the starter itself just in case the main battery lead is corroded inside.
If the solonoid is getting really hot the internal copper contact may be burnt causing high resistance. If this is the case you will have to replace or repair the copper contact. What I did once for a quick bush fix was to file clean the contact and swap them both from side to side as usually only one burns.
AnswerID: 327762

Follow Up By: beccsptyltd - Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 10:37

Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 10:37
ok ill have a look for the crank handle :)

Sorry, its not the solonoid that is getting hot its the starting capacitor. The feeder for the distributor cap.
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FollowupID: 595083

Follow Up By: beccsptyltd - Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 10:50

Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 10:50
darn, no crank handle :'(

If anyone has one would they be able to take a photo of one so i could perhaps look at making one of my own?

Or if anyone wants to sell me please contact me?
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FollowupID: 595085

Reply By: Mikee5 (Logan QLD) - Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 11:20

Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 11:20
When you say starting capacitor, I think you are talking about the ignition coil, this provides the high tension spark to the centre of the distributor. This will have no effect on the ability of the starter motor to crank the engine.
Go back to basics. Charge the battery and get it tested. Pull out the solonoid and clean the contacts. Check the battery leads. Check the earth leads too (battery to body and body to engine block). Clean the battery terminals. Even try a jumper lead from the battery to the starter motor in case the main lead is corroded inside. Check the condition of the oil in the engine - it may be very thick and old. Just for interest is the engine an F or a 2F? Mine was a 2F in 1976.
AnswerID: 327767

Follow Up By: beccsptyltd - Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 11:47

Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 11:47
Hi Mike,

Yeah the ignition coil thats the one, ahha!

Yeah i have bought a new battery just charging it to make sure its 100% charged dont want to wreck another battery, lol. Then i will go back to basics as you say.

I have put some new oil into the engine, and would LOVE to do an oil change but cannot do that until i start the engine! DOH!

I have run a resistance check on the battery to solonoid cable and it does seem fine as well as a visual inspection. (Im a sparky by trade)

What can you recommend for the thick oil? It is very thick a bit like paste! As i said above i have put in some extra oil just incase it does start so i dont want to do any damamge!

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FollowupID: 595091

Reply By: Mikee5 (Logan QLD) - Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 11:22

Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 11:22
The crank handle is the same tool that was used to raise/lower the spare wheel in the troopies and traybacks of the same era.
AnswerID: 327768

Follow Up By: beccsptyltd - Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 11:49

Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 11:49
ahh ok from looking at the big wheel in the engine where the crank handle would go im assuming its just like a 10mm piece of steels with a bend in it for the handle (like the old jack handles) then on the engine end its just a rod with 2 little pieces of steel coming off on Right angles, to Form a T?

----------------|- something like that at the engine end?
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FollowupID: 595092

Reply By: Mikee5 (Logan QLD) - Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 11:55

Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 11:55
Personally, I would dump the oil cold. Let the engine drain for as long as possible, say 24 hours because it will be thick and cold. Then top up with clean (cheap) oil and change again to good oil after you get it running properly in say 100 to 200kms. I'm sure others will disagree with this but as I said, that is what I would do.
AnswerID: 327771

Follow Up By: beccsptyltd - Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 12:02

Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 12:02
ok thanks mike, been a massive help!

I think in another hour ill hook up the new battery and give her a crack :)

FIngers crossed! Im sort of in the back of my mind knowing that there will be something else wrong with it in terms of actually getting her running but heres hoping!!!
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FollowupID: 595095

Reply By: beccsptyltd - Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 12:16

Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 12:16
Hey is there anyway to donate to ExplorOz? Its helped me so much! In the past too, i use to be on here alot under a previous alias but couldnt for the life of me remember any of the ID or Pass or even email!

How can i donate?
AnswerID: 327775

Follow Up By: Mikee5 (Logan QLD) - Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 13:17

Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 13:17
Joining up and becoming a member is one way.
You described the crank handle pretty well, you could make one if you were keen, but I doubt you would ever really need one. There should also be a small guide hole bracket bolted to the front bumper or bull bar to steady the handle end. I just used mine for fun and to see if I could start the engine that way.
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FollowupID: 595098

Follow Up By: beccsptyltd - Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 13:54

Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 13:54
Mike or anyone else for that matter, i think i have discovered something strange!

I decided to do a continuity test from the battery terminals to the stater motor solonoid and i found something interesting!

I tested between the positive terminal of the battery to the positive of the starter solonoid and as expected i had continuity. I then tested from Negative post of battery to the positive terminal on the stater motor solonoind and it also had continuity :S..

So i tested from negative post of batt to negative of solonoid and also had continuity..

Could this explain why my ignition coil is always hot? Could a fault in the ignition coil be causing some short that is appearing at the stater motor solonoid terminals?

Or is this a normal phenomenon?
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FollowupID: 595103

Reply By: Mikee5 (Logan QLD) - Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 15:34

Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 15:34
Key turned on or key turned off?
If key (and ignition circuit) is on then if points are closed there will be a closed circuit from Positive through coil and points to ground. You will get continuity everywhere along that loop. If points are open and this is a 50/50 chance, or if the key is turned off, then you shouldn't get continuity.
If the key is turned off you shouldn't get any voltage reading on either side of the ignition coil
AnswerID: 327798

Follow Up By: beccsptyltd - Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 15:41

Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 15:41
Hey Mike,

Key turned off i have continuity between batt + and solonoid + and -, aswell as batt - and solonoid - (which is normal..)

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FollowupID: 595122

Reply By: Mikee5 (Logan QLD) - Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 16:04

Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 16:04
It just occurred to me - there are two terminals on the starter. A big one that carries the positive battery lead and a small one probably done up with a nut or a push on terminal. This small one is not a negative, is is a feed wire that activates the solonoid when a positive current is applied, test this by jumping a wire from any positive source onto this small terminal but keep extremities out of belts and fan while doing it. It is time for you to get the manual out (try your local library) and study it.
AnswerID: 327803

Follow Up By: beccsptyltd - Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 16:08

Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 at 16:08
yeah no worries, thanks again then Mike, ill have to go out and buy the manual and do some reading, just thought i may be able to get a quick answer of this forum, not too worry :)

Thanks everyone!
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FollowupID: 595125

Reply By: beccsptyltd - Wednesday, Oct 01, 2008 at 18:32

Wednesday, Oct 01, 2008 at 18:32
hey guys, just thought i would let you all know that thanks to your help i managed to get her started :)

I replaced all the elec cables, batt to starter and batt to ground and she fires up a beauty now :)

thanks fellas
AnswerID: 327988

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