One thing after another.

Submitted: Wednesday, Oct 01, 2008 at 09:00
ThreadID: 62170 Views:3357 Replies:8 FollowUps:14
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Started to unpack the Troopie on Sunday, after a few months away, and also check out why the fuel gauge on the rear tank was always showing empty despite it being filled up during the trip.

I had an idea what the problem might be and crawled under the back of the vehicle to check it out. To see the sender unit on the tank I had to be in front of the rear diff and as I used the rear leaf springs to slide under the vehicle.

I noticed the spring leaf pack, at the fixed end, had moved up slightly, this is because the bushes had worn and now required replacing.

Not a problem, jack the back of the vehicle up, remove the wheels, let the springs hang but when it came to undo the "U" bolts that is when I found out that the thread on the bottom of the "U" bolts were damaged and that the bolts now had to be cut off.

I wanted to replace the "U" bolts anyhow and this time I will trim the "U" bolts off to the bottom of the nuts so that there is no thread hanging down to get peppered by rocks.

Replacing the bushes and "U" bolts went OK so decided to have a look at the sender unit again. This time I grabbed the tail shaft to drag myself under the vehicle a bit further and that is when I felt some movement.

A closer look and the uni joint needs replacing. The vehicle was already jacked up and the rear wheels were off so it was not hard to get the tail shaft out and replace the uni joints. I wanted to grease the uni joints any how and it was easy to do it on the work bench than under the vehicle.

Getting back to the sender unit, the reason why I was under the vehicle in the first place, and a drop of oil had appeared over night, on the driveway, just under the rear brakes. Rear hub seals had gone.

It was a good thing that the vehicle was already jacked up and the wheels were of the vehicle. I wanted to repack the bearings any how so this was the right time to replace the seals and adjust the bearings.

Today I will replace the axles, drain and replace the diff oil and try to pick up another sender unit for the tank.

One thing after another.

Wayne
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Reply By: Dasher Des - Wednesday, Oct 01, 2008 at 09:08

Wednesday, Oct 01, 2008 at 09:08
G'day Wayne,
I hope you don't have a problem with your BullBar. LOL By the time you get to the Towball, everything should be OK
AnswerID: 327908

Follow Up By: Wayne (NSW) - Wednesday, Oct 01, 2008 at 09:12

Wednesday, Oct 01, 2008 at 09:12
Dasher,

I do have to replace a bulb in one of the fog lights on the bull bar. I will do that when I change the engine oil.

Wayne
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FollowupID: 595226

Reply By: Dave(NSW) - Wednesday, Oct 01, 2008 at 09:19

Wednesday, Oct 01, 2008 at 09:19
Wayne,
Bit hard on the gear old mate hahaha,You can't drive them all over OZ with out some thing needing replacing,you've done alright considering where you have been.
Cheers Dave..
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AnswerID: 327911

Follow Up By: Wayne (NSW) - Wednesday, Oct 01, 2008 at 11:52

Wednesday, Oct 01, 2008 at 11:52
Dave,

Most of the repairs have been minor and has not stopped the Troopie yet.

Had a few more corrugations this year and have managed to keep the weight down on the Troopie. The front shocks will be replaced be the Canning next year.

Wayne
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FollowupID: 595243

Reply By: jdwynn (Adelaide) - Wednesday, Oct 01, 2008 at 09:23

Wednesday, Oct 01, 2008 at 09:23
Wayne, it sounds like Murphy is sitting on your shoulder (he's normally on mine). Just as well you came home me thinks. cheers JD
AnswerID: 327912

Follow Up By: Wayne (NSW) - Wednesday, Oct 01, 2008 at 11:54

Wednesday, Oct 01, 2008 at 11:54
JD

Had to come home, I was starting to go a bit feral.

Wayne
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FollowupID: 595244

Reply By: Hairs & Fysh (NSW) - Wednesday, Oct 01, 2008 at 09:32

Wednesday, Oct 01, 2008 at 09:32
Wayne,
Are you changing the oil because you've rebuilt the motor and gear box, or are you just temping fate?
I'll have one of them days every blue moon. You wake and it hits the fan by 8 am, come 6 o'clock you wonder 'why the hell did I get out of bed this morning'.
Look on the bright side, she's ready to go again ;-)
AnswerID: 327914

Follow Up By: Wayne (NSW) - Wednesday, Oct 01, 2008 at 11:58

Wednesday, Oct 01, 2008 at 11:58
Jon,

The diff oil was changed because when the seals went grease from the bearings mixed with the diff oil to make a thick sludge.

The motor oil will be change because of I have clocked up enough kilometers.

I have finished the outback trips for this year but in 6 weeks the Vic High Country will get a visit.

Wayne
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FollowupID: 595247

Follow Up By: Hairs & Fysh (NSW) - Wednesday, Oct 01, 2008 at 12:41

Wednesday, Oct 01, 2008 at 12:41
Wayne,
I just had (2000k's ago) a mate do my front bearings and seals, they were leaking. Hell of a mess.
I hadn't done any water crossings, so there was no water in there, but the same as you the the grease had gotten in and mixed with the oill.
He got me under it, to have me learn how it's done. Fun job ;-)
Next I'll change the gearbox and transfer case oil, and give them an inspection.
Only last weekend Mark and myself replaced the pinion seal on the front dif. Hmm might have to replace the flange, it had a few marks on it.Next time it leaks, I'll do the back at the same time.
There is always some thing to do.
It's amazing how quickly the K's roll around.
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FollowupID: 595252

Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Wednesday, Oct 01, 2008 at 10:22

Wednesday, Oct 01, 2008 at 10:22
Gday Wayne,

I spent some quality time underneath mine at the weekend, and a drop of oil appeared at the bottom of the front diff. Just needed to tighten the banjo diff bolts - worth including them as part of a routine check. Also the front sway bar end bolts can work their way loose - I lost one last year - just replaced it with a slightly longer one and added a nyloc nut for good measure.

I replace the axle seals, both front and rear every 100,000k. Bearing seals every 40,000k.

Were your spring bushes poly or Toyota?
AnswerID: 327920

Follow Up By: Wayne (NSW) - Wednesday, Oct 01, 2008 at 12:03

Wednesday, Oct 01, 2008 at 12:03
Phil,

Poly bushes, I replaced them last year. I will see how this set goes and if they are shot in 12 months I will have to look at the rubber ones.

I will give the front a good look over while the motor oil is draining. I think I have a shock bush that needs replacing.

Wayne
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FollowupID: 595249

Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Wednesday, Oct 01, 2008 at 18:15

Wednesday, Oct 01, 2008 at 18:15
I kept the original Toyota spring bushes and will put them back in when the poly bushes bite the dust. the Toyota ones are not like the old rubber bushes - they have steel sleeves so they move nicely and last forever.

Regarding the sender, I wouldn't buy one yet. Check it out with a multimeter first - they are just a variable resistor, so maybe it's easily repaired, or just a connector problem???
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FollowupID: 595311

Reply By: Ron173 - Wednesday, Oct 01, 2008 at 11:44

Wednesday, Oct 01, 2008 at 11:44
A tip for you here.

Once you replace the U bolts or any other exposed thread areas which may suffer stone damage,.....

cover the extra thread with a piece of suitable diameter hose cut to length to protect.

next time you will remove this and have no dramas.

Ron
AnswerID: 327931

Follow Up By: Wayne (NSW) - Wednesday, Oct 01, 2008 at 11:46

Wednesday, Oct 01, 2008 at 11:46
Ron,

Good idea, will give that a go when next I have to change the "U" bolts

Wayne
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FollowupID: 595241

Reply By: Member - John (Vic) - Wednesday, Oct 01, 2008 at 13:26

Wednesday, Oct 01, 2008 at 13:26
Good thing it was already jacked up or you would have worn out the jack and the bloke cranking the handle :-)
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AnswerID: 327944

Follow Up By: Wayne (NSW) - Wednesday, Oct 01, 2008 at 13:37

Wednesday, Oct 01, 2008 at 13:37
John,

It was a good thing that I have this week off from my other job to get all this done.

I will not remove the jack stands until I check everything under the vehicle.

The original thing I was going to do and that was to replace the fuel sender unit, I still have not done, because they are as scarce as hens teeth.
Toyota want from $190 to $300 for a sender unit.

Wayne
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FollowupID: 595256

Follow Up By: Member - Redbakk (WA) - Wednesday, Oct 01, 2008 at 15:13

Wednesday, Oct 01, 2008 at 15:13
Yep....that's about the average price for most of those little senders......Got mine in having the radiator rodded...still like most job's...once it's done, it,s done.
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FollowupID: 595276

Follow Up By: Kroozer - Wednesday, Oct 01, 2008 at 18:02

Wednesday, Oct 01, 2008 at 18:02
What does having the ''Radiator rodded'' involve? And about how much does it cost?
Cheers
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FollowupID: 595309

Follow Up By: Member - Redbakk (WA) - Thursday, Oct 02, 2008 at 00:01

Thursday, Oct 02, 2008 at 00:01
They pull out your radiator...pull off the top and bottom tanks...then push a rod through the cores to clear them out...put it all back together etc and pressure test it...engine flush...hose check....new inhibitor.....2 year waranty on work....cost???...don't know yet...will let you know.

A few bob I expect....
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FollowupID: 595363

Follow Up By: Member - Redbakk (WA) - Thursday, Oct 02, 2008 at 15:42

Thursday, Oct 02, 2008 at 15:42
Kroozer....radiator overhaul $195....all the rest $265...total $460
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FollowupID: 595446

Reply By: Member - Kiwi Kia - Tuesday, Oct 07, 2008 at 19:51

Tuesday, Oct 07, 2008 at 19:51
How many km's has the vehicle done ? I have just had a front axle swivel bearing collapse - quite a bit of grinding noise coming from the front right hub area (280,000 km). Toyota Kalgoorlie fitted me in next day (guys in workshop wanted to work some more hours and came in a 6am), everyone else in town wanted me to wait two weeks !
AnswerID: 328822

Follow Up By: Wayne (NSW) - Tuesday, Oct 07, 2008 at 20:36

Tuesday, Oct 07, 2008 at 20:36
Kiwi Kia,

Just over 200,000km.

I have never had a problem with swivel hub bearings, although I do give them a check and grease when ever the front hubs are apart.

Wayne.
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FollowupID: 596132

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