Sunday, Oct 12, 2008 at 00:04
Bronze bristle brush on a cleaning rod - and soaked in Hoppes number 9 solvent.
Add a pull thru patch to the end of the bristle brush and keep replacing the patch until it comes out clean...and the rust / pitting is gone as best you can.
Where is the bulk of the pitting and rust? is it immediately in front of the chamber ie, the throat of the rifled
bore immediately ahead of the chamber?
What cal rifle?
I once had a guy in a similar sit with a old lee enfield that had been rebarelled down to a .22 hornet round, some of the very old mercuric primers from old days had eroded the throat area badly so we did what we could and I ran up some mild hand loads to test her out - it hadn't been fired in anger for many years.
Put a target on a
hay bail - and fired a shot from 100 yards into the centre..
Couldn't see a hole with the binocs - so we walked down to the
hay bale - to see 5 separate holes spread all over the paper! Yikes!
The projectile had disintegrated mid air - it was definitely beyond time for a re-barrel again.
It s not uncommon in high powered rifles that have seen 5 or 6 thousand rounds or more to develop an area of throat erosion just ahead of the chamber, where the hot gasses of combuston and particles of as yet unburnt cellulose exit the cartridge, as the gasses expand all the way down the barrel behind the accelerating projectile specially with double base powders.
Such throat erosion will effect accuracy - as the barrel develops quite a noticeable whip cycle as it returns to battery - since it has to centeralise the projectile to line up with the axis of the
bore - because the projectile exits the cartridge neck into the area containing the void of throat erosion - and then has to be lined up to the remaining true axis of the
bore as it accelerates down the rest of the
bore which still has rifling lands intact.
Anyway - the advice about having a gunsmith look at it is sound.
There are a couple different methods used to make the rifling lands (button rifling and Madrell rifling) and a couple methods of attaching a barrel to an action (pinned or screw threaded) and each affect accuracy and each can be cheaper or dearer depending what make of rifle it is and if you want to keep it original.
Good luck - I'd get good advice from a gunsmith if I were your mate.
Cheers
AnswerID:
329418