anti rusting my vehicle

I went this way, though left the underbody to the pro at rust proofing australia (down the road).

http://www._Permanent_Painted_Coatings.aspx.au.com/

This lot do look the goods.

Might have been a good idea maybe first after the wire wheeling, to apply that rust converter - that coverts the rust to some neutral state where it diesnt continue to rust - then apply all the various fish oils etc etc.

I know I recently did something similar - with a 8 year old boat trailer (galvanised) that was showing bad signs of rust on some of the ungalavanised parts like brake caliper brackets and leaf sprngs, axel etc.

The wire wheeling etc did a good job of removing obvious rust flakes and the like, but the rust converted stuff did a great job in the crevices between leafs etc where you can't get too - of stopping the rust in it's tracks.

I also used cold galv paint, which has a good reputation as a primer etc on bare metal - but past results with that haven't been at all good (The rust seems to re appear thru the cold galv paint in short order because the trailers frequently in a salt water environment.

This time round- the guy at the hardware convinced me to use another bitumen based aluminium paint over the top of the cold galv.

Never seen anything like it - a couple years down the track - plenty of salt water use and no sign of the rust returning.

The aluminium paint comes up nice n shiney metal color like a new trailer.

I did go the extra distance with the trailer- and installed a reticulation system throughout 0 with lots of garden mister sprayers, that plugs into freshwater tanks witha 12V marine pump in the haul vehicle -OR if at home to the garden hose.

So - straight after a launch or retrieve - as I park the trailer up fir the day in the boat launch car park - I hit a switch on the dash and freshwater wash down the entire trailer of all the salt water from launch9ng before it gets a chnace to dry on there.

Same with retrieving - at the end of the day - while towing the boat home - the same system washes down the underside of the hull and the entire trailer with freshwater while travelling down the road.

All that remains at home is to flush the OB's and cabin / superstructure etc then put her away till next tme.

I have to say - the alumnium based bitumenous paint, is bye far the best of any anti rust product I've ever used. Id say for under body work - such as your recent project it likely couldn't be beat!

The ONE downside I found with it was this.

I decided to wire wheel the steel rims inside & out & then rust convert them - then cold galv a couple coats, and then the aluminium based bitumenous paint.

To this day they still look like new.

The problem?

The solvent in the Aluminium bitumenous paint, got onto the tubeless tyre valve stems ftted to the rims and it in turn dissolved the rubber based glue that holds the brass valve bodies inside the rubber valve stems.

Coz the boats so heavey the tandems Michelin tyres need to run at 70 psi for highway work...

With all that pressure,and the glue dissolved, the brass insiets of the valave tyre stems had a habit shooting out at near .22 cal velocities and putting dents into nearbye cars - the garage tin wall etc.

Luckily this happened BEFORE a longtrp and as a precaution afte several such failures I had ALL valve stems (4 wheels and 2 spares) replaced with new ones, and bought a fist full of spares and a tool for insterting them into a rim should it ever be needed on the road at some later date.

If using that paint in retrospect on avehicle underbody - I'd be hesitant about letting it anywhere near rubber component s like fuel hoses, diff breathers, suspension rubbers, engine & gearbox mounts, fuel filler hose, rubber break lines, CV jpoint covers and so on.

Damn good product but care needed in it's application is all.



Cheers