Driving Lights Feedback

Would suggest that Black should be earth. Run a wire from battery+ to the relay and see what happens Did the loom not come with a diagram

Rab I would firstly remove all connections for the spotlights and correct the high beam on the vehicle first. If the spots are using that high beam feed to switch them on...then nothing will work no matter what combination you play with later.

Once that is sorted then replace all the other fuses in the wiring loom and look here for a diagram that is very similar to the IPF one!
ABR - Derek

Matt.

If you disconnect the wiring from the lights and connect a wire to the battery on + & - sides do they light up? It could be that they are wired to the left high beam circuit (not working) as someone else suggested, so this should be fixed. Also check the plug and wiring cause if the previous installer did a bodge job the connections may have come apart.

Does the car have separate fuses for each headlight circuit?

This may sound a little silly but '2005' model, is the car still under warranty? if it is take it to toyota.......

Many Thanks Folks.

I will try to do it over the weekend and let you guys know.


Thanks.

G'day Rab
Two things you need to check, first it sounds like you have a dead short between the relay and battery as you seem to be blowing fuses, and second it could be that you alternator isn't big enough. The alternator needs to be able to supply enough power to run all the lights and everything else electrical in the car that would normally be running at night. Most Klugers only have a 65 - 75 amp alternator which may not be enough.

Simple formula for working out your power needs; add up the watts for all lights (including parkers and brake lights), dashboard, indicators, AM/FM radio/CD player, interior light,as well as the spots; Then divide the total by the volts carried by the battery (12 or 24). The answer is the amps that you need to be able to draw from the alternator. If this number is bigger than the amps rated on the alternator, you need to install a bigger alternator....around 110 amps normally. Also you should have one relay operating on each twin set of spots and run 5-6mm cable from the battery side to each spotlight to the relay and use thinner cable for the switch in the cab. This will reduce voltage drop over the circuit. Hope all this helps mate.

Ian

Hi All,

Thanks for the Help.

I managed to fix the problem by replacing one blown fuse in the Relay box and now my IPF lights are alive again. I was saved from the tedious work. Thanks for all your help and support.

Now I’m facing another issue with the engine. I’m hearing engine knocks between speed of 30-60kms when ever I press for the gas. Also I found it bit hard to speed up on the freeway. Did anyone face such kind of situation??

This car had recently done 80000kms and major service was carried by Toyota, on Friday I went to servicing department for this issue. I and their foreman went for the inspection drive and at the end of the trip the foreman told me that either Auto-trans or engine mount is creating problem. But he didn’t believe in auto-trans problem as the auto-trans light warning is not ON in the panel. I told them that this problem has occurred after the servicing and it was not there before.

As per my pervious experience with the Commodore, Air filter (which is clean in this case) and spark Plugs needs to be replaced and this will fix the problem. I’m planning to give the car to Toyota on Friday the 7th Nov 08.

What you guys suggest? Please advice.

Thanks in Advance.

Rab