hj60 purchase check

Submitted: Tuesday, Nov 11, 2008 at 07:51

ThreadID: 63417 Views:4427 Replies:2 FollowUps:13

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franken

looking for contact details for a mechanic or other wise man in perth WA, to check out a hj60 I am considering purchasing. thanks, Frank.

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Reply By: ross - Tuesday, Nov 11, 2008 at 10:02

Tuesday, Nov 11, 2008 at 10:02

There is not a lot to check on them.
Ask to see the engine do a cold start(meaning it has been off for at least overnight.
If they blow lots of exhaust smoke,it either has a fuel injection problem or a compression problem.
If they don't run smooth when cold,run away

The gearboxes are normally stiff and balky when cold,but after 5-10 mins it should shift reasonably smoothly(never perfect though).

The drivetrains nearly always have some slop in them, characterised by a clunk if the clutch is used carelessly but if its bad its usually the pinion bush in the diff.

The brakes are never really good and can cost a bit to get them up to scratch.

Check behind the front wheels for grease or oil leaking from the swivel joints.
They need a service there every 4-5 years and it costs over a $1000 if you have to pay someone.

Give all the wheels a good shake from the top,there should be no movement.

The spring leaves should have a smooth curve in them. If they have uneven gaps or flat sections and the shackles at 45 degrees,it will need a suspension kit and that will be close to $2k.

Check for rust EVERYWHERE. Mainly the roof gutters and around the wheel arches.
Beware of vehicles that have been patched up,its hard to stop the rust once it starts.

They are big simple,easy to work on vehicles and if you take the time to learn how to maintain them,it can save a lot of money.

If you really want someone experienced ,try Central 4x4 in Wanneroo/ 9404 7001
His name escapes me,but he has 30 years exp on landcruisers.

AnswerID: 334607

Follow Up By: franken - Tuesday, Nov 11, 2008 at 11:12

Tuesday, Nov 11, 2008 at 11:12

Ross,
thanks for that info, i looked at the vehicle last night and noted that it was warm prior to getting there, seller said that he had started it earlier. little warning bell. appears to need a lot of glow plug prior to starting as he has fitted a switch that directly applies power to the glow plugs, is this normal?
vehicle has done 390k,
appears to seep oil from oil filler cap, and around rocker cover. also transfer and gear box, has 'transfer to gearbox oil filler modification'
rust starting on drivers side A pillar, rear wheel arches and behind quite rusty, another patch below gutter LHS and rear of rear door. otherwise looks ok rust wise. Not too worried about rust, looking for a cheap vehicle to explore/prospect/fish/camp and are more worried about mechanical fix parts cost (no experience with 4x4's before but are willing to try and fix anything)
will check items you mentioned tonight and make some calls prior to deciding.
thanks again,
Frank

FollowupID: 602403

Follow Up By: ross - Tuesday, Nov 11, 2008 at 13:08

Tuesday, Nov 11, 2008 at 13:08

The engines can last a long time but at 390000klms its getting close to an engine rebuild.
Its not unusual for the glow plug relay to be bypassed when they pack up.
However the problem with hard starting could also be low compression.
You need to be sure.
The oil coming from the cap and seepage around the rocker could mean it has crankcase pressure from worn rings

The oil bypass means the seal may have gone between the gearbox and t/case.
Probably be worth$600 to fix properly as you end up doing the bearings as well

Some the HJ75 utes can be had cheap in reasonable condition.(same mechnicals as HJ60)

There is an old rule that says there is no such thing as a cheap landcruiser.
The cheaper the price,the bigger the repair bill;)

FollowupID: 602425

Follow Up By: ross - Tuesday, Nov 11, 2008 at 13:14

Tuesday, Nov 11, 2008 at 13:14

In regards to the engine being warmed up before you get there, alot of old diesels only need a 10second run to disguise a hard starting problem.
I put my hand on the exhaust manifiold before its started to check for some warmth.
I also get there 1/2 an hour early

FollowupID: 602427

Follow Up By: franken - Wednesday, Nov 12, 2008 at 07:56

Wednesday, Nov 12, 2008 at 07:56

Took another look, and am now thinking that I will leave it.
Front wheels have a little slack
Rust is more prevalent than first appearance
Leaking from both front knuckles, transfer case and gearbox
shakcle bushes worn badly (probably wearing the pins at the moment)
starts ok from cold (after 30 sec of glow plugs), small cloud of black smoke.
springs I am unsure on, can see light through the leaves in places
probably still an OK buy, price is 2k.
However it has obviously not had any maintenance for years.
and there are hundreds of them for sale at the moment in WA; probably something to do with the price of diesel!
So I will keep looking and find one that has had a bit more TLC.
Thanks again Ross for your pointers.

FollowupID: 602584

Follow Up By: Member - Davoe (Yalgoo) - Wednesday, Nov 12, 2008 at 08:53

Wednesday, Nov 12, 2008 at 08:53

I couldnt disagree more - theres a heck of alot to check most repairs start at a grand

just a few points
-Jack up wheels and check for free play in bearings/steering joints
- Oil leaks around the steering balls
- oil leaks around diff pinions and TC/gearbox
- Check lock to lock in 4wd to test cvs
- het it up to 80 kph in 5th then let it coast down to see if it will jump out of 5th
- check for coolant leaks around the sideplate on the engine - they rust

- make sure it doesnt overheat and check radiator for bubbles - heads were known to crack
- check the axle studs to make sure none are broken
- Brakes
- check for excessive smoke

and thats just some of the more obvios things that commonly go wrong with them

FollowupID: 602594

Follow Up By: ross - Wednesday, Nov 12, 2008 at 13:31

Wednesday, Nov 12, 2008 at 13:31

Franken ,that one sounds like it could need $3000 or more to make it right.
When the cops are having a slow day they will zero in on that like a blowfly to the dung pile.

How many people do you want to take on your trips?
If its just you and another person,a HJ75 ute might work well for you.
You just need a canopy or some canvass on the back and you have an instant bed with lots of storage space.
Ive seen some reasonable units in the $5k range but they will still need some work.

FollowupID: 602622

Follow Up By: ross - Wednesday, Nov 12, 2008 at 13:51

Wednesday, Nov 12, 2008 at 13:51

"I couldnt disagree more - theres a heck of alot to check most repairs start at a grand "

Davoe,if there is so much to check on a HJ60,why did you repeat most of the things from my post LOL

FollowupID: 602627

Follow Up By: franken - Wednesday, Nov 12, 2008 at 13:53

Wednesday, Nov 12, 2008 at 13:53

agreed, and I have decided to leave that one.
3 kids and a wonderful wife need to come with me so utes are out, although I noticed a dual cab HJ tipper in the quokka.
currently drive a very rusty '82 dyna dual cab which I have been waiting for the cops to yellow sticker for years now. I think they are too busy with more important stuff, If they don't yellow sticker it soon I'll have to fix the brakes :-)
planning on looking at a '88 with recon engine, or so he says. would this be a 60 or 80 series, and whats the difference, do any of them have LSD or diff lock ability?
I noticed the hj60 has a lock/unlock switch next to the steering column, what is this for?

FollowupID: 602628

Follow Up By: Member - Davoe (Yalgoo) - Wednesday, Nov 12, 2008 at 14:10

Wednesday, Nov 12, 2008 at 14:10

i didnt read your post fully as I didnt have much time before catching the plane
- I just read not much to check.
the fact i repeated some of what you had shows they are areas to check. everything i put down I ha to replace on my hj75 (same thing) except the steering joints and cvs

FollowupID: 602631

Follow Up By: ross - Thursday, Nov 13, 2008 at 14:42

Thursday, Nov 13, 2008 at 14:42

An 88 would be a 60 series as the 80 didnt arrive till 1990.
Is it diesel or petrol?
I think all 60 series in australia came standard with LSD after 84,maybe earlier.
The locker diffs were an option

The lock/unlock switch sounds like the tilt steering knob.
The troopy with a rear seat might be an option biut they dont go cheap in gc.

The nissan patrol is not bad for the price and plenty of family have fun in their Pajeros
A friend of mine got a nice 7 seater Pajero with a fully rebuilt turbo diesel engine for $2k
The gearbox and clutch needs a rebuild but he says he is happy to spend the money

FollowupID: 602762

Follow Up By: franken - Thursday, Nov 13, 2008 at 17:09

Thursday, Nov 13, 2008 at 17:09

diesel, taking a look at it tonight

the lock/unlock switch is on the dash to the right of the steering column, its not the steering tilt adjust (which is mounted on the column on the other side). I should have been clearer on its location.

FollowupID: 602785

Follow Up By: franken - Friday, Nov 14, 2008 at 14:26

Friday, Nov 14, 2008 at 14:26

now i understand the comments about rust, the 1988 model I looked at has rust all over the roof, top of front guards etc, however the wheel arches were rust free, unlike the 84 model.
mechanically, rear diff pinion has slop (i can wobble it), same with front hubs, same oil leaks from transfer, gearbox and front knuckles, couldn't tell with the engine as it had just been hit with a high pressure cleaner prior to me getting there (i'm gonna have to take the advice and get there 1/2 hour early),
has long range tanks and winch as a bonus.

also understand the comments about springs now, the 1988 ones looked totally different to the 84 models, proper curve, leaves all tight, no daylight between them and the hangers were vertical (or close too it)

got some idea of what to look for now anyway, thanks.

FollowupID: 602921

Follow Up By: ross - Friday, Nov 14, 2008 at 16:11

Friday, Nov 14, 2008 at 16:11

Yep ,after you have looked at a few you get the picture pretty quick.
A lot of 60 series would have had their spring replaced by now.
I think the 88- models got an extra leaf in the rear springs and when new, sat a little bit higher in the rear.
A little daylight is normal ,as the springs(I think all) have some plastic spacers to help keep the springs from rubbing together.
Really tired spring packs are tight together at the axle and then spread out between axle and shackle with 10mm gaps.

If your budget stretch to really nice ready to roll 60,buy one with a nice body and do the mechanical repairs yourself.

Many of the parts are from suppliers are much cheaper than original parts and there of used parts about.

There are free online manuals for these and most jobs are easy on the home mechanic.
Engine manual is on pg 1 and the body/chassis 84-90 is on pg2

http://forums.bauchan.org/portal/downloads.php?dcid=17&p=2

FollowupID: 602936

Reply By: swampy66 - Tuesday, Nov 11, 2008 at 11:15

Tuesday, Nov 11, 2008 at 11:15

I sold a 2 year old 4wd this year - the buyer requested an RAC check.

I was a bit surprised by how many faults RAC found - especially when it had full service history from the dealer who sold it to me new.

I will use RAC next time I buy a used car.

Cheers.
Swampy

Disclaimer: I have no affiliation with RAC. I'm not a member of RAC.

AnswerID: 334617