Storage in the rear seat of a 4 x 4

Submitted: Sunday, Dec 07, 2008 at 22:04
ThreadID: 64097 Views:4924 Replies:8 FollowUps:16
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Got a GU Wagon.

Going from Adelaide to the East Kimberley & Roper River for a month next April with 2 mates; that's a total of 3 in the car.

In order to be self sufficient for as long as possible, I am thinking of making something which will enable a 2nd fridge or esky to sit where the other seat in the rear is.

That is, I'm proposing to rip one of the two rear seat assemblies out & make something which lets me slide the fridge/esky out through the door opening. It could also provide storage for other stuff like food, booze, tools, personal bags, whatever. It could go from floor to ceiling.

There is nothing I have seen commercially available for such a space, but am willing to be shown to be wrong on that. Besides, it would likely cost a packet.

So if you have any ideas/concepts/suggestions/designs or photos, it would be much appreciated if you could share them here.

Thanks heaps
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Reply By: Member - Mick O (VIC) - Sunday, Dec 07, 2008 at 22:24

Sunday, Dec 07, 2008 at 22:24
Rick,

the greatest problem you'll have is the angle of the door making it hard to get things in and out, particularly something the size of an Engel or Waeco. Easily done if you're half handy with a welder to make something up in the way of storage units. Is is possible for you to put both fridges in the rear and then just use the area in then passenger compartment for storage using those plastic boxes of various sizes from Crazy Clints or the $2 shop. They stack up well and can be secured with a tie strap.

Your biggest consideration is ensuring that what ever you store there is anchored securely enough to prevent it being the last thing going thru the driver or front seat passengers mind in an accident (or even a solid braking event). A cargo barrier is a major consideration.

I have the rear seats removed and a black widow cargo system with front barrier, Great alternative although somewhat expensive. I had a similar set-up to what you need made for my Navara by going down to a local engineer with the vehicle and a set of rough drawings. He made me a steel frame work that utilised existing seat mounts and I just painted it and screwed ply to the top of the bar work. Not too many bucks and very little pain.

Cheers
Mick.

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AnswerID: 338730

Follow Up By: Rick (S.A.) - Monday, Dec 08, 2008 at 08:54

Monday, Dec 08, 2008 at 08:54
Thanks Mick,

Unfortunately the rear is totally chockkas with a storage unit for 2 weeks tucker etc, fridge, table, cooking eqpt, plates, 60 L water, tools etc. A re - design, although not impossible, would be a seriously big job. It took 5 years to get it "perfect" in the rear.
If you email me at: r i c k m o o r e a t p a c i f i c d o t n e t d o t a u, I can email some pics of the current set-up.

I have looked seriously at the BW set up. Problem really is that a cargo barrier isn't practical for the rear seat passenger - if you see what I mean.

One of the thoughts behind my post is to get fresh ideas.

I have drawn up a capsule plan which could ensure some reasonable protection if in a prang, and still enable the fridge to be slid out on runners through the widest section of door space. But at $ 600 plus, I was looking for alternates.

Cheers [loved your blog - read 'em all yesterday]
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FollowupID: 606282

Reply By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Sunday, Dec 07, 2008 at 23:55

Sunday, Dec 07, 2008 at 23:55
We did a Simpson Crossing a few years ago with some mates in other vehicles.

One of the vehicles was a GU Patrol with 3 blokes in it.

The owner had removed the passenger's side rear seat and made up a contraption out of plywood to fit in the space. They had a section at floor level to store 2 (or was it 3?) gerry cans for water and diesel. Above that, there was a compartment for a plastic tub and then above that (at about the height of the top of the front seat) there was a top cover with a border of about 100mm height, which is where they kept cameras etc, ready to be grabbed quickly etc.

They only had one fridge (70 litre) in the back.

A fridge in the back seat area would have to be in a fixed position, it will not slide out. This means you can't store much on top of it.
AnswerID: 338736

Follow Up By: Rick (S.A.) - Monday, Dec 08, 2008 at 09:03

Monday, Dec 08, 2008 at 09:03
Thanks Bill,

Any chance of a photo??

I was thinking of ply also, mounted in a aluminium frame, but I'll see what other ideas lob. I reckon the top with a 75 mm border is the go also. Maybe a plastic bakery tray - one that fell off the back of a Balfours delivery van - mounted on the top of the unit could work?

Cheers
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FollowupID: 606284

Reply By: Peter 2 - Monday, Dec 08, 2008 at 07:36

Monday, Dec 08, 2008 at 07:36
Whatever you fit/build in the passenger compartment must be very strong and very well anchored as other wise it will break free in a prang.
Plenty of people have been killed by stuff a lot smaller than a jerrycan flying around in the passenger compartment.
Anchoring a rigid frame to the seat mounts is fine but it shouldn't be used to carry/hold any heavy stuff like jerrys, toolboxes, crates of food etc. The mounts would not be designed to take the stresses of an accident with such a heavy rigid load.
Better to put the heavy stuff in the back behind the cargo barrier and put soft stuff like clothes, sleeping gear and tents next to a passenger. It is preferable to get as much weight forward but in this situation passengers shouldn't share the space with heavy, possibly flying objects.
I've got the frig mounted where one rear seat would normally go and it is very well mounted. The rest of the cabin space only has clothes bags and jackets.
AnswerID: 338746

Follow Up By: Rick (S.A.) - Monday, Dec 08, 2008 at 09:12

Monday, Dec 08, 2008 at 09:12
Thanks Peter 2.

I had not considered the mounting aspect as well I might. There are a few existing locating points which I can utilise - if a 100 kg bloke is sitting on a seat mounted on these points, surely these mounts have some useful strength? I realise a seat belt would help restrain the 100 kg bloke. But I will make sure it's a safe as possible.

The rear section, behind the cargo barrier, is totally full and has no soft stuff in it. So, down low may be the spot for tucker etc, with a fridge about mid height - ease of access a major consideration. Then, yes, soft stuff. I'm thinking it all may be in a "cage".

Cheers
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FollowupID: 606285

Reply By: Member - Willie , Sydney. - Monday, Dec 08, 2008 at 07:46

Monday, Dec 08, 2008 at 07:46
Hi Rick,

I took out both seats and put in an aluminium cargo platform (as low as I could). Then I was able to put a fridge there without a slide.

I have heard that this might somehow make the car illegal, but I don't really care about that if it's true. Stupid rules make me angry.

Now I can store a heap of gear in this huge area.

Chears,

Willie.
AnswerID: 338748

Follow Up By: Rick (S.A.) - Monday, Dec 08, 2008 at 09:17

Monday, Dec 08, 2008 at 09:17
Hi Willie

Thats what I am currently thinking may work well. Still fishing for ideas, but.

And yes, I agree. Bugger the rules.

Thanks for the reply.
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FollowupID: 606286

Follow Up By: Member - Graham H (QLD) - Tuesday, Dec 09, 2008 at 13:56

Tuesday, Dec 09, 2008 at 13:56
It definitely makes the car illegal as you are altering the category of it and if pranged would void your insurance bigtime.

I have removed the second row of seats in my cruiser and took it to an engineer who for $60 recertified it as a two seater. When I replace them he has to do it again to put it back to original.

The ADR states that they can be removed for a short time which when I asked was a week maximum.
The engineer however said when he did the course he was told never, not even for 5 minutes.

So there you are do what u like but for $60 I wont lose a $70,000 vehicle cause i was stupid
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FollowupID: 606466

Follow Up By: Member - Willie , Sydney. - Tuesday, Dec 09, 2008 at 14:01

Tuesday, Dec 09, 2008 at 14:01
I am stupid then and have been for the past five years.
Willie.
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FollowupID: 606468

Follow Up By: Member - Graham H (QLD) - Tuesday, Dec 09, 2008 at 19:35

Tuesday, Dec 09, 2008 at 19:35
Wasnt pointing the bone at u Willie but it seems a lot do it without thinking about the consequences.

I would rather be legal than stubborn would perhaps be a better way of putting it.

As u see it didnt cost much to legalise it and as I am leaving it like that for up to a year I feel its money well spent.

Interestingly they told me that if you take seats out that are bolted down it makes the vehicle illegal.

How many Patrols still have the 3rd row of seats in them.

The new 200 series also have bolted in rear row so makes the law a bit of a joke really.

I mentioned that and the guy just shrugged his shoulders.

Cheers.
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FollowupID: 606511

Follow Up By: nickb - Tuesday, Dec 09, 2008 at 22:23

Tuesday, Dec 09, 2008 at 22:23
I was in a head on collision in July that wrote off my 4WD. It had a 3" lift(illegal height), bigger than legal tyres and no back seats in it(full length rear shelf). Major crash went over the car and said it was a very good condition car(other than the missing front end...).

Got my full insurance payout within the three weeks.

Very lucky to be walking as the cargo barrier stopped the fridge/tool boxes/camping gear/dogs from hitting us in the back of our heads. The force of the crash broke both top cargo barrier mounts which in turn broke both front seat upright mounts but the barrier took most of the impact, judging by the dents in it.

If the illegal modifications are deemed a probable cause of the damage/injury then you may have some issues but I had no problems as the accident wasn't my fault.

So when you do make your slide/shelf unit, make sure it is extremely sturdy and strong!
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FollowupID: 606552

Reply By: Robin Miller - Monday, Dec 08, 2008 at 08:04

Monday, Dec 08, 2008 at 08:04
Hi Rick

Been down that path and it worked quite well , but currently I have my 25 waeco fitted between the front seats after removing console and this mates up a flat , rasied,. framework holding 2 single beds which extends to the back doors.
Both use same framework method as below.

With the first setup I removed the seat behind the driver and seat belts and sort of extended the rear floor almost to the back of the driver seat. Making a single bed space.

To make this space I made to vertical brackets from 1 inch angle iron that mounted to seat mount at front of seat. Made another using 1 inch flat bar which hangs from the seat belt mount against body. Made a fourth bracket that goes from the catch that allows seat to fold forward. These 4 don't form a square and so some cross pieces of mostly 3/4 inch angle iron were used to create a square in which 12mm ply wood sits. At one stage I also used a bracket off the passenger seat near where the armrest is across to the body to form a brace where the back of the removed seat would have been. But this proved a pain.

If I was to mount a fridge onto the base that I made , I think I would make a rectangle out of 3/4 square tube that fitted over the fridge, and use some flat bar straps down to the base I made.

I am a poor tradesman , but have now made 3 very effective configuration setups for my GU, using basic tools and steel angle and flats, some welds and 6mm phillips head bolts and nuts.

One of the things that made it possible for me was use of a simple 100amp wire feed welder. This allows me to tack all sorts of things in place , often while they are rough clamped inside the car still.











AnswerID: 338751

Follow Up By: Rick (S.A.) - Monday, Dec 08, 2008 at 08:31

Monday, Dec 08, 2008 at 08:31
Thanks Robin.

I had not considered angle iron - my mind was playing with 25 mm square tube.

I have been considering a cheapie wire feed welder but have been warned off due to quality issues making consistency of weld etc very hard to achieve - would an arc welder be better?
I'm a rough-ish bush mechanic standard ,so can knock something together.

Cheers
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FollowupID: 606281

Follow Up By: Robin Miller - Monday, Dec 08, 2008 at 11:11

Monday, Dec 08, 2008 at 11:11
Hi Rick

My little Weldmate 100 is actually a wire feed arc welder I believe.
http://www.dealsgalore.com.au/automotive-tools/sip-weldmate-trade-100-gasless-portable-welder.html
But are more expensive than chinese units at I think $270 from repco.
I also have basic arc welder for bigger stuff but this simple little unit has really expanded my home handyman abilites.

The angle iron and flats are very practical, in my new stepup
that allows 2 to sleep in the patrol and which sort of folds
to make the beds into emergency only rear seats that is all I have used.
No square tube at all.

Have been quite particular about systems that work here first time and are very adapatable, removeable and low cost.

So for example if a rectangle is made out of angle iron on which say a fridge may sit then to support it I would use another piece of vertical angle iron and two are held just with the 6mm philips head bolt. This is quick and easy to do and allows for measurement errors. At the base of the vertical angle iron
I would weld a flat bar of say 50mm long , and into this bar I drill the hole that matches and existing seat mount hole. This means that the vertical section can be offset by the flat bar section from the seat mount hole.
It also allows some bending.

An angle iron perimeter also allows the plywood insert panels to be quickly removed. None of mine are permanently attached, although they could be.
The bases tend to be held in place by the objects they carry and there attachment
e.g. original seat belt across fridge or ocky straps etc.
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FollowupID: 606299

Follow Up By: Rick (S.A.) - Monday, Dec 08, 2008 at 17:10

Monday, Dec 08, 2008 at 17:10
Thanks for the expanded details Robin.

I "get" it. Will now draw something up in angle iron to see how that may do the job.

The flex of the flat bar is a good idea for those like me who don't remember to follow the "measure twice cut once" rule !

Cheers
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FollowupID: 606344

Reply By: Member - Beatit (QLD) - Monday, Dec 08, 2008 at 08:25

Monday, Dec 08, 2008 at 08:25
G'dy Rick,

Plenty of good ideas here and here is one more.

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You could consider only half a platform. The steel I had bent at a sheet metal place and it simply screws to the timber and uses the existing seat bolts.

Hope it helps.

Kind regards
AnswerID: 338755

Follow Up By: Rick (S.A.) - Monday, Dec 08, 2008 at 08:58

Monday, Dec 08, 2008 at 08:58
Thanks Beatit, good stuff.

That's what I was hoping for - pics & fresh designs. I'll wait a few days to see about other replies & decide then.

Cheers
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FollowupID: 606283

Follow Up By: jskogsta - Monday, Dec 08, 2008 at 10:05

Monday, Dec 08, 2008 at 10:05
Quick question; what are you using that tower for? Also re the battery; have you hooked that up to the main for charging as well? Thinking of getting one of those battery packs to do something similar..
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FollowupID: 606290

Follow Up By: Member - Beatit (QLD) - Monday, Dec 08, 2008 at 10:14

Monday, Dec 08, 2008 at 10:14
The tower is storage,

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The battery is being charged from the egine via an isolator.

Kind regards
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FollowupID: 606291

Reply By: Peter McG (Member, Melbourne) - Monday, Dec 08, 2008 at 11:53

Monday, Dec 08, 2008 at 11:53
Rick,

You probably have enough to work on from the above suggestions but here's what I've done.

For extended trips I take both seats out and have made a platform using the light black slotted angle you can get from Bunnings. It's very easy to use and comes with nuts and bolts. It's basically like using a large mechano set. I use the seat bolt holes and the third row seat bolt holes as mounting points. Some 9mm ply for a top and ity makes a very strong platform to then use plastic boxes for storage.

I also have a front cargo barrier which mounts to the platform.

You could use the same approach with one seat removed.

Cheers

Peter
AnswerID: 338784

Follow Up By: Rick (S.A.) - Monday, Dec 08, 2008 at 17:39

Monday, Dec 08, 2008 at 17:39
Peter,

That front mounted cargo barrier has merit. The slotted meccano style angle may also be quite easy to work with. I had imagined I'd use the seat mounting points and may be a re-inforcing brace to the grab handle on the B pillar & one or two back to the normal cargo barrier.

Thanks
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FollowupID: 606354

Reply By: Member - Glenn D (NSW) - Monday, Dec 08, 2008 at 14:22

Monday, Dec 08, 2008 at 14:22
Hows it going Rick,

This is my take on things , pretty simple but does the job.

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I use the seat mount bolts and the cargo barrier as tie down points for the fridge,

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I made a platform for the fridge with some ply and angle brackets so it is level from the bottom of the cargo barrier , I use 5 medium good quality cable ties around the bottom of the cargo barrier and through holes in the ply to stop the platform moving. with the fridge fitted and secured the whole thing is quite solid

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Gives easy fridge access , Engle 40lt opens fully .

Have been using this set up for almost 3 years with no problems.

Glenn.

AnswerID: 338805

Follow Up By: Rick (S.A.) - Monday, Dec 08, 2008 at 17:44

Monday, Dec 08, 2008 at 17:44
Hi Glenn,

What you have is basically what I am currently doing, only yours looks a little sturdier. Great minds think alike!.

I was aiming to use more of the vertical space if I could - i.e. store stuff above the fridge by building a pod or frame which
(1) enables the fridge to slide out of the door for ease of access to the fridge's contents
(2) lets me use plastic tubs or drawers above.

Thanks
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FollowupID: 606356

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