Patrol 2H-4H

Submitted: Monday, Dec 15, 2008 at 21:34
ThreadID: 64313 Views:4170 Replies:10 FollowUps:7
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According to the manual that came with my pre loved 2003, 4.2 litre T D Patrol, I should be able to select 4H while travelling at up to 40 kph with the hubs in the auto position. However, the only way I have been able to select 4H is from standstill, and then I am able to change up & down between 4H & 2H while on the move. If the hubs are in the lock position there is no problem selecting 4H while on the move. Can anyone tell me if the manual is telling fibs or if there is a fault somewhere? Cheers
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Reply By: Voxson - Monday, Dec 15, 2008 at 23:22

Monday, Dec 15, 2008 at 23:22
The manual must be crap because mine is the same.
Without the hubs being locked there is no chance of snatching 4H on the move but with the hubs locked in then there is no prob like you have stated.
My last Patrol was the same.
AnswerID: 339951

Reply By: P7OFFROAD Accredited Driver Training - Tuesday, Dec 16, 2008 at 07:27

Tuesday, Dec 16, 2008 at 07:27
I can move between 2H and 4H at any speed. - actually there was a time that I couldn't and had to stop - but normally it's not a problem at all, make sure that you are going dead straight!

Autos are a bit more touchy though, for some reason, at least that has been my experience.
AnswerID: 339958

Reply By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Tuesday, Dec 16, 2008 at 08:47

Tuesday, Dec 16, 2008 at 08:47
When I bought my first GU in 2000 with the auto locking hubs, I remember the same issue. It didn't matter what speed I was doing (right down to about 5k/h), there is no way the transfer case would let me move from H2 to H4 on the fly if I hadn't manually locked the hubs in......even though that's what the blurb said I could do.

I've since learnt that (apparently) if you stop and engage H4 (with hubs still in auto position), then once you are driving it is indeed okay to change from H4 to H2 and vice versa on the run. This is because even when you change back to H2 (on the fly), the front drive train is still moving.

When I think about what I was trying to do (and what you have been trying to do too....); it was never going to work.....

Picture what is happening under your rig when you're driving along in H2 under normal conditions. Your rear tailshaft is spinning, sending drive to the rear wheels. The front drive train is idle (tail shaft, diff and axles all sitting there doing nothing). It would be stupid (of me) to think that I could pull the stubby lever back on the fly and INSTANTANEOUSLY make the front drive train go from DEAD STILL up to matching the speed of the rear drive train! It just ain't gunna happen!!!

Anyway, for me the problem is solved..... I installed manual locking AVM hubs.

Roachie
AnswerID: 339964

Follow Up By: Member - JohnR (Vic) - Tuesday, Dec 16, 2008 at 09:07

Tuesday, Dec 16, 2008 at 09:07
Sounds right to me Roachie. The front drive train has to be engaged to the road to speed matched. That means hubs locked. Best way to have em anyway to keep the universal crosses lubed.
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FollowupID: 607501

Reply By: Member - Kingsley N (SA) - Tuesday, Dec 16, 2008 at 10:04

Tuesday, Dec 16, 2008 at 10:04
Fellas,
I regularly "snatch" the lever into 4H when on the move. EG when crossing a sandy patch that gets worse or mud that becomes serious. The hubs are always in "Auto". I reckon that I have always achieved 4WD using this method (although Roachies thoughts make me wonder if I did). I can't recall any situation where the front wheels lost traction after snatching the lever, but then again that LSD is pretty good on the rear wheels.

I have asked this question before and never really got a good reply: "What does the locking of the hubs actually achieve on an Auto Locking System?" I don't believe I ever suffered from the hubs becoming "unlocked". But then again I am no expert. Any ideas?

Kingo
AnswerID: 339969

Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Tuesday, Dec 16, 2008 at 11:15

Tuesday, Dec 16, 2008 at 11:15
Kingo,

Locking the auto hubs with the wheel brace is akin to turning the dial on a manual hub.

Under normal driving conditions (say on the bitumen), with your auto hubs in the auto position, the front drive train is at rest.

If you lock the hubs up, then the motion of the wheels will make the axles, diff and front tail shaft all start rotating, even though you still have the stubby lever in the "2H" position. BUT, because everything is already turning "down there", you can move the lever from 2H to 4H anytime you like.....all this does is join the already-moving drive line into syncro with the transfer case; so that now you are actually supplying DRIVE to the front wheels. Prior to that, the drive train was spinning, but only because the WHEELS were making it spin.....it was still isolated from the transfer case until you moved it to 4H.

As I mentioned earlier, as far as I know, the only way you can move from 2H to 4H on the fly with the hubs in auto position, is if you have already stopped at some stage and moved the lever in 4H. Once you've done that on ONE occasion (on that trip), then your front drive train will continue spinning in unison with the rear, no matter whether you are in 2H or 4H. That is why you have to stop and reverse the vehicle (with it being 2H) in order to UNLOCK the front hubs. Once you have done that, I think you'll find that next time you want to move from 2H to 4H on the fly, you won't be able to.

I'm probably making it sound more confusing that I should be.

Roachie
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FollowupID: 607510

Reply By: Bryan (WA) - Tuesday, Dec 16, 2008 at 12:52

Tuesday, Dec 16, 2008 at 12:52
HI All,
I hav e a GQ patrol and I have no problems going in to 4H while moving. I only ever do it at slower speeds otherwise you do throw a lot of instant presure on the drive system.
I read up in the Gregorys manual whcih explains how the auto hub works. hopefully I can explain it...
When the hub is in auto the front wheels spin freely - no drive.
when you put the car in to 4H, you engage the transfercase which then engages the front drive system to the front diff - the front axles then turn which activates an internal locking mechanism in the auto hub and engages the front wheels. there is an internal spring/locking system that disenages when you take the car out of 4wd and THEN drive the opposite direction to release the auto hub, I think its about 50cm. you will hear a 'click' from the hub as the dis-engage.
Now, when you stop and reverse while in 4wd, everything goes in the opposite direction and the auto hub actually dis-engages momentarily as the front axles turn the opposite direction to re-lock the auto hub in the opposite direction.
so once again to dis-engage the front auto hub, you take it out of 4wd and then drive in the opposite direction to you were just going to release the internal locking system.
thats why in the nissna car manual it advises you must go the opposite direction to dis-engage the auto hubs.
if you manually engage the hub you manually lock the system together.
if you have ever pulled your hubs apart to re-grease them you will understand what I mean about the internal spring system and see how it locks/unlocks in auto mode.

hope I have explained it all ok..

regards
Bryan
AnswerID: 339977

Follow Up By: Robin Miller - Tuesday, Dec 16, 2008 at 13:07

Tuesday, Dec 16, 2008 at 13:07
Same here Bryan in my manual GU with auto hubs in auto , its the way the system is meant to work.

Being able to go between 2/4wd is one of the advantages the patrol have over some other makes.

Just have to do it below about 40 , with car just cruising and hold a little pressure on gear stick.

Did it a couple of times over lunch on the wet bitumen road here.

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FollowupID: 607518

Follow Up By: Member - Kingsley N (SA) - Tuesday, Dec 16, 2008 at 14:45

Tuesday, Dec 16, 2008 at 14:45
Thanks Bryan,
That explanation seems plausible. When I questioned another expert (non Nissan driver) in our club he was less than clear, but did describe the Auto position as a ratchet like the free wheel on a bicycle. Your scenario of proceeding in reverse is interesting and tees up with the club's advice to lock the hubs before using any back and forth rocking tecniques to unbog.

Roachie, thanks to you too, but I am certainly able to move the lever into the correct central (4H) position. It moves and locks in easily. The little green 4WD symbol comes on and we continue through the sand. When completed, I can move the lever forward just as easily (to 2H) AND the light goes out without having to reverse up, provided I didn't lock the hubs manually. If I have used Low Range, IE pushed down on the lever and pulled back whilst stationary and in N, I do have to reverse to get it out of 4WD. Sometimes I have to go back and forth a couple of times even though the lever is in the forward position.

I recall that people have recommended operating the vehicle with the hubs set to "LOCK" even though 4WD is not being used. I believe that this is OK on bitumen and the purpose is to lubricate the mechanism.

Confusing isn't it?

Kingo
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FollowupID: 607526

Follow Up By: Bryan (WA) - Tuesday, Dec 16, 2008 at 15:56

Tuesday, Dec 16, 2008 at 15:56
Hi Kingo,
what I have explained is how the auto hubs work, so its not plausable, but factual.
I have only ever used the auto setting, and always been able to get out of bogs - even when having to rock back and fwd - the distance the front axle have to spin in the opposite direction to re-lock in the opposite direction is so minimal it does not effect 4wd traction at all.
when you take the car out of 4wd - the 4wd light goes out, but unless you stop and change direction to unlock the hubs, your hubs will stay engaged untill you do.
if you go in to low range, you have to stop the vehicle to engage/disengage. if your having problems getting the hubs to disengage by going in the opposite direction, you may find if you havent greased your hubs - they maybe dry/contaminated and sticking - it would be worth re-greasing them.
I regularly engage the front hubs driving to or from work to help with lubrication - I drive suburb streets so its all 60-70kmh speeds.
I wouldnt drive in 4wd at freeway/highway speeds, Im of the understanding it isnt good for it because its not a full time 4wd system..

regards
Bryan
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FollowupID: 607531

Follow Up By: Bryan (WA) - Tuesday, Dec 16, 2008 at 16:02

Tuesday, Dec 16, 2008 at 16:02
H Kingo again,
sorry I forgot to mention, the only time you *should* need to manualy lock the hubs is if internally to the hub the auto locking system breaks so you have to manually lock it the same a normal manual locking hub requires.
some other manufacturers dont have the manual override - so if the auto locking system broke, you would be stuffed.........


regards
Bryan
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FollowupID: 607532

Follow Up By: Member - Kingsley N (SA) - Tuesday, Dec 16, 2008 at 18:02

Tuesday, Dec 16, 2008 at 18:02
Thanks Bryan. It all seems to work for me and we have done some interesting and tough tracks over the last five years.

Kingo
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FollowupID: 607552

Reply By: pepper2 - Tuesday, Dec 16, 2008 at 16:00

Tuesday, Dec 16, 2008 at 16:00
Have had 2 gu manual patrols both go into and out of 4wd high range on the move with hubs in auto no problems at all,
AnswerID: 339987

Reply By: DesF - Tuesday, Dec 16, 2008 at 16:49

Tuesday, Dec 16, 2008 at 16:49
Hi, My Gen1 Pajero has auto hubs , but I must stop and select 4H andtake off, then I can go back to 2H and back to 4H when I need it , it wont go into 4H unless you connect the hubs first,
Cheers Des.
AnswerID: 339993

Reply By: Member - Duncs - Tuesday, Dec 16, 2008 at 23:31

Tuesday, Dec 16, 2008 at 23:31
For quite a while after buying the GU I thought I could not change on the move. But as you say the book says you can so I kept trying. After a while I found I could do it if I got it "just right". Now I can do it without thinking.

So is it me or is it the car. Maybe its a bit of both.

Duncs
AnswerID: 340046

Reply By: mechpete - Wednesday, Dec 17, 2008 at 19:47

Wednesday, Dec 17, 2008 at 19:47
hi henpecked ,
I have a late GQ with auto front hubs ,I run then in auto mode and have always been able to select 4H on the fly up to 100 kph
cheers mechpete ,
AnswerID: 340155

Reply By: Hans Frozen - Wednesday, Jan 07, 2009 at 23:59

Wednesday, Jan 07, 2009 at 23:59
Some extremely useful postings re the 2wd to 4wd issue. My manual was just the same!
Thanks guys, from a relatively new Patrol owner from UK.
AnswerID: 343166

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