Tuesday, Dec 16, 2008 at 11:15
Kingo,
Locking the auto hubs with the wheel brace is akin to turning the dial on a manual hub.
Under normal driving conditions (say on the bitumen), with your auto hubs in the auto position, the front drive train is at rest.
If you lock the hubs up, then the motion of the
wheels will make the axles, diff and front tail shaft all start rotating, even though you still have the stubby lever in the "2H" position. BUT, because everything is already turning "down there", you can move the lever from 2H to 4H anytime you like.....all this does is join the already-moving drive line into syncro with the transfer case; so that now you are actually supplying DRIVE to the front
wheels. Prior to that, the drive train was spinning, but only because the
WHEELS were making it spin.....it was still isolated from the transfer case until you moved it to 4H.
As I mentioned earlier, as far as I know, the only way you can move from 2H to 4H on the fly with the hubs in auto position, is if you have already stopped at some stage and moved the lever in 4H. Once you've done that on ONE occasion (on that trip), then your front drive train will continue spinning in unison with the rear, no matter whether you are in 2H or 4H. That is why you have to stop and reverse the vehicle (with it being 2H) in order to UNLOCK the front hubs. Once you have done that, I think you'll find that next time you want to move from 2H to 4H on the fly, you won't be able to.
I'm probably making it sound more confusing that I should be.
Roachie
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