re welding question

Hi Jeelan

I have used Sikaflex 227 and rivets to put on sheets on my camper trailer and trust me it not going to fall apart like i got told by a rep they use Sikaflex to stick s**t to blankets and if you use 252 well that even stronger it cost about $23.00 for 252 and $15.00 for 227 you can get it in black or white or grey and its worth every cent

Glenn

I know sikaflex is a good product, but i must be old fashioned, it would be welding for me, the stress i put on trailers, im even thinking steel for a large box on the front rather than alum because it may not be strong enough!!!

Cheers Pesty

Jeelan

I bought an ex ambulance - 1990 F250 5.8 EFI - that had a box on the back and a full air bag suspension that raised and lowered the back end for stretchers. I've still got it actually.

Found a recent piccy ....

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The original "meat box" was made from 3/4" box (welded) and the sides etc (fibreglass and ply) were sikaflexed to it. I can tell you I had a hell of a job pulling that thing apart.

I now have a 1 ton tray on the back with a 750mm extention on the front. Setting it up as a camper. Have a 3" ball and a triple axle gooseneck trailer to fit on it. I used sikaflex to stick on the 1.6mm steel panels. Found a piccy ....

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and my gooseneck trailer .....

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OZTent RV2 fits on top of the gooseneck. Toys on the back (with hoist) :-)

I can tell you from experience that sikaflex is the way to go.

Some people think the way to make something real strong is to use steel and weld it up solid. IMHO the better way to go is to use welds sparingly and use plenty of sikaflex. That's what it is designed for .... to flex.

Malcolm
Townsville

hey everyone

thanks for your comments - i've decided that i'm going to try the DIY method with Sikaflexing the panels to form a tub.

thanks again for everyone's input.

cheers
Jeelan

Not sure for this particular project but i'd recomend going to tafe to learn how to weld. I had "some" idea but decided to go to tafe at night last year, cost stuff all ! I can now weld ark and mig quite well.
Cheers Lyndon

The firewalls of a lot of cars today and glued not welded and it is supposed to be stronger but Im sure its quicker and cheaper .
I would say stronger because of continuous contact for sika giving more stuck surface area against spot welding for the other.

All load bearing and stress members should be welded and when I say welded I dont mean bird droppings on the outside of a joint I mean properly prepared joint to allow full penetration.

There is a new Alupanel coming in from England that has a plastic coating in different colours on one side so with care and sikaflex you can have a finished body requiring no painting.

Ian

Nohing wrong with glue if it's done right. You would be amazed at how much of the skin on modern aircraft is 'glued' on.

.

Jeelan. Go for it. I can weld steel, but I do not have the facilities to weld alloy. My slide off camper is made from a welded steel frame covered and fitted out with alloy which is pop riveted and sikaflexed. Works a treat and as you say you can DIY. A point to consider is that the pop rivets are not that water proof. I have found they will leak so you have to spend a bit of time putiing putty/Bog over the rivets. Also do not spare the sealer make sure you get a good seal the first time, its a lot eaiser than going back to find the spot where you did not quite put anough sealer. Also get a good pop rivet gun as you use heaps of rivets and I went through two cheaper guns. Finished product once painted is not as smooth looking as all the pressed and rolled versions, but hey it works and you save big $ doing it yourself. Cheers and best of luck Tony

Gday,
When you say your getting a chassis built but want to build the "tub" yourself....do you mean sheet the welded structural frame?.......Not glue the top to the chassis?


cheers

Jeelan

I remember reading somewhere that the sheet alluminium chassis for the Lotus Elise sports car is held together with epoxy resin and a small number of riverts on corners to prevent tearing.

If something like that can be glued together then the top of a trailer should be no problem.

Before you start I would suggest you ring the technical advice number for Sikaflex. The company makes a lot of products that you don't see in the hardware stores. They will tell you exactly what to use and how to apply it. You will also find many of their products should be used with spray on primers for best results.

Brian

Jeelan,
Its a very interesting post - thanks for posting it.

I've used Sikaflex to attach lots of extra bits to my aluminium canopy, but have to admit to using a few 3/16th Rivets to line things up. Nothing's ever come loose though.

Just on the subject of rivets.

You will always have to seal the hole they fit into ... but you can get a sealed rivet that wont let moisture down the centre .. ah la landrover style ... need a real good rivet gun for them though.