200000 km service 1hz 1995 troopy
Submitted: Wednesday, Jan 07, 2009 at 17:27
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64892
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Member - sdr00y (Beecroft)
I am about to do a 200,000 km service on my 1995 troopy 4.2D and would like some suggestions of things I may have forgotten.
Replace the following...
Engine, transfer case, gearbox, diff oils.
Brake, clutch, power steering, radiator fluids.
Oil, air, fuel filters.
Alternator and air con belts.
Timing belt kit.
Front wheel bearing kit (both sides)
Steering knuckle kit (both sides)
Steering knuckle bearings (both sides) only if looking bad.
Inspect the following as they have been replaced within the last 40000km...
Heater and cooling system hoses.
brake pads
Inspect...
steering box oil
Water sedimenter
Suspension bushers, and see if I can get rid of the troopy clunk in the steering and/or
suspension.
Lubricate...
Drag link and steering linkages.
Propeller shaft
Adjust...
handbrake cable.
I am thinking I may replace the water pump while the timing belt cover is off. Am I wasting my time there or should I do it while everything is off?
I have never done rear bearings, but I may get Mr Toyota to do them for me even though I had a bad experience when he did my Hilux ones.
Is there anything else major that I have missed?
Within the next two years I plan trips to the Centre, Tasmania and 6 weeks to the
Kimberley.
Thanks in advance.
Scott
sdr00y
Reply By: Member - Tour Boy (Bororen) - Wednesday, Jan 07, 2009 at 17:40
Wednesday, Jan 07, 2009 at 17:40
Do the rear bearings and whilst there replace the axle seals as
well to prevent the diff oil mixing with the new bearing grease.
Rears are easier than the fronts.
The troopie clunk will be the front spring pack leaves moving on one another nearly impossible for a long term fix...get a louder stereo.
Check body mounts for tightness especially the ones under the front D/s and P/s foot
well.
Check the service book it will have anything else
Cheers
Dave
AnswerID:
343090
Reply By: Member - Footloose - Wednesday, Jan 07, 2009 at 17:41
Wednesday, Jan 07, 2009 at 17:41
Do the water pump while that cover's off. Much easier at
home than on the road.
AnswerID:
343092
Follow Up By: pop2jocem - Wednesday, Jan 07, 2009 at 21:53
Wednesday, Jan 07, 2009 at 21:53
As Footy said, if you have ever had to replace the water pump on one of these engines it's much easier in your shed at
home than on the side of a remote track
Cheers Pop
FollowupID:
610921
Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Wednesday, Jan 07, 2009 at 18:58
Wednesday, Jan 07, 2009 at 18:58
Check the valve clearances - checking them is easy, adjusting them is a bit more complex because they are shims, and you may want to leave the latter to a workshop if it is required.
Agree with Dave about the rear wheel bearings - the only bearing failures I've seen in
the desert were rear bearings that had not been serviced.
Your handbrake is a drum inside the rear discs - adjustment of the shoes is usually all thats required - cable will only need adjustment if it has stretched.
Check the U-bolts, and front and rear swaybar bolts for tightness.
Cheers
Phil
AnswerID:
343106
Reply By: a convict - Wednesday, Jan 07, 2009 at 19:06
Wednesday, Jan 07, 2009 at 19:06
..another great post on this
Forum,
thanks.
AnswerID:
343108
Reply By: Member - Kiwi Kia - Wednesday, Jan 07, 2009 at 19:45
Wednesday, Jan 07, 2009 at 19:45
Hi sdr00y,
I would definitely change the water pump, cost of pump is minor.
I would also replace the drive shaft uni joints. Those tiny little needle bearings have done an incredible amount of work over those 200,000 km.
I recently had to replace the handbrake cable due to it being seized. A lot of crap had gotten inside the outer sheath. It would not hurt to inspect and maybe put some dry lube (graphite) on the inner at rear end.
If you are really keen you may also like to inspect the mesh
'in-tank' fuel filters.
Fit a low water alarm in the top radiator hose. Those Toymotor temperature gauges don't tell you anything till it's to late.
Remove batteries, nutralise and flush away any acid residue around the battery trays and guard.
.
AnswerID:
343118
Follow Up By: Member - Kiwi Kia - Wednesday, Jan 07, 2009 at 20:01
Wednesday, Jan 07, 2009 at 20:01
PS. Have you blocked off the little hole (factory fitted) in the bottom of the air filter housing ? You can remove the little 'blister' housing on the bottom of the aircleaner and put some silicone sealant around the little rubber flap (water drain). The rubber gets a bit tired with age and may now be permanently open.
.
FollowupID:
610872
Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Wednesday, Jan 07, 2009 at 21:53
Wednesday, Jan 07, 2009 at 21:53
Kiwi,
The factory
snorkel is not waterproof, so there's a good reason for having the rubber flap water drain - I think
mine has 2.
FollowupID:
610922
Follow Up By: Member - Kiwi Kia - Wednesday, Jan 07, 2009 at 22:01
Wednesday, Jan 07, 2009 at 22:01
Hi Phil, The little rubber flap should stay closed but the old ones don't so I have glued
mine down. An air intake system that can allow water to be sucked into the engine is of no use to me.
FollowupID:
610925
Reply By: Mikee5 (Logan QLD) - Thursday, Jan 08, 2009 at 10:15
Thursday, Jan 08, 2009 at 10:15
If you are going to do the front wheel bearings yourself, you can be confident that you can do the back ones as they are very similar in the way they are done. Unlike the Hilux which I believe needs a press to remove and replace the rear bearings. Just remember that when you park the troopy to work on it, leave enough room on the LHS especially to get the rear axle out (I learned the hard way by
parking too close to the house).
AnswerID:
343194
Follow Up By: Member - sdr00y (Beecroft) - Thursday, Jan 08, 2009 at 14:20
Thursday, Jan 08, 2009 at 14:20
Mikee, I was thinking that they were like the Hilux ones and pressed in, but if they are not then I will be able to do them myself. Good poiint about space to bring the axles out.
Thanks.
FollowupID:
611014
Reply By: Member - Alastair D (NSW) - Friday, Jan 09, 2009 at 09:46
Friday, Jan 09, 2009 at 09:46
Scott,
Check the springs in the ends of the drag link. I found one was broken and in 3 pieces. Got rid of a lot of clunking. Apparently there was a bad batch at one stage.
Also
check that the tie rod ends are set so that they can both rotate fully. Sometimes they get set badly when the toe in is done and limit the movement.
Whilst doing the water pump etc take the radiator out and blow out all the rubbish from the fins. Can do the a/c core as
well with the radiator out.
Check the viscous hub and see if it needs a top upwith silicone oil. There are threads on here and LCOOL about how to
check.
Check shocks.
cheers
alastair
AnswerID:
343361