Electronic Rust Prevention Units- Which One ??

Submitted: Thursday, Feb 19, 2009 at 18:50
ThreadID: 66108 Views:3492 Replies:10 FollowUps:10
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I know this question has been asked on this forum before, but i wanted to get peoples views on which elec rust prevention units were good and which were not so good. I have an old 60 series in great condition with bugger all rust and i would like to keep it that way. I know there are many different units around and i would like to here your options on them.

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Reply By: On Patrol & TONI - Thursday, Feb 19, 2009 at 19:33

Thursday, Feb 19, 2009 at 19:33
Chad D
Type ERP into the forum search and read all about it over a few years on this forum, then make your decision based on that info.

It had been done to death here, so do yourself a favour and read the many threads on this subject.

Cheers Colin.

PS My personal opinion is they are the new "snake oil" a bit of a con.
AnswerID: 349922

Reply By: Holden4th - Thursday, Feb 19, 2009 at 19:34

Thursday, Feb 19, 2009 at 19:34
From what I can gather the jury is put on whether or not these devices actually work.




and from exploroz itself



Read these and make a decision - as I said, the jury is still out on this one.
AnswerID: 349923

Reply By: Lex M (Brisbane) - Thursday, Feb 19, 2009 at 19:46

Thursday, Feb 19, 2009 at 19:46
They are all variations on a theme as far as I can see. This used to be the cheapest one. Available on Ebay.

Had several of these and the electronics are reliable.
Do they prevent rust? Hard to prove or disprove.

AnswerID: 349927

Reply By: PradOz - Thursday, Feb 19, 2009 at 20:27

Thursday, Feb 19, 2009 at 20:27
Hi Chad

I was in the right place at the right time and got hold of a new Coupler Tec unit for 4WDs at an excellent price. It was very easy to fit and has been great. Actually it has helped the finish of my paintwork and bullbar as well - i get plenty of positive comments with regard the paint and appearance of the 4WD. Its Dec 1999 model and black so can be difficult to keep clean and looking good. the bullbar was second hand and needed a polish but after 1 go at polishing and it not doing much i gave up and left it as is. Look at it now and you would never know how bad it was when i got it. I have also seen quite a few others with them and they all seem to have high quality paint and chrome. I am actually yet to see a car with the correct type fitted that has rusted - but I am sure there will be one out there somewhere. Not sure if it would be in the majority though.

My mate works at oil refinery and they have used them and seen the difference with and without in such a highly corrosive environment. If you can get one at the right price and the correct sort why not give it a go. Worst thing you may do is make the finish on the 4WD look like new again.

You will get people around to knock these, but there is always someone who will find something wrong with whatever you ask about (just ask a question about Cooper tyres and i am sure you will get an earful) but any help preventing rust is better than nothing hey! I have been on plenty of beaches, sand and mud etc and (touch wood) all is good. Do plenty of research so you dont get the wrong type. Cheers....
AnswerID: 349932

Reply By: Member - Mike DID - Thursday, Feb 19, 2009 at 20:35

Thursday, Feb 19, 2009 at 20:35
I haven't had a problem with any rust in any vehicle - since I was silly enough to buy a Commodore in 1982 (exhaust rusted through after 13 months).

My expenditure on rust protection systems since then has been zero - which is exactly the value I place on any Electronic Rust Protection System.
AnswerID: 349936

Reply By: Eric Experience - Thursday, Feb 19, 2009 at 21:34

Thursday, Feb 19, 2009 at 21:34
None of them work so it does not matter which one you buy.
Happy motoring, Eric
AnswerID: 349952

Follow Up By: Member - Cram (Newcastle NSW) - Thursday, Feb 19, 2009 at 21:42

Thursday, Feb 19, 2009 at 21:42
And what do you base that on Eric.....some substance to your statement would be good.

For the record I don't own one.
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Follow Up By: Eric Experience - Thursday, Feb 19, 2009 at 22:06

Thursday, Feb 19, 2009 at 22:06
The idea of sacroficual electrodes protecting metal was developed for the marine environment where you have an electrolyte to carry the current and the metal to protect the structure. In a vehicle you don't have or want salt water to carry the current so it can not work.
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Follow Up By: Member - Cram (Newcastle NSW) - Thursday, Feb 19, 2009 at 22:12

Thursday, Feb 19, 2009 at 22:12
Ok, thanks for that you have now given me something to research and ponder. The basis of what makes this forum so good.

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Follow Up By: Member - joc45 (WA) - Thursday, Feb 19, 2009 at 23:38

Thursday, Feb 19, 2009 at 23:38
Actually, some devices claim to radiate an electron field out from pads, which is supposed to prevent rust from forming. Only thing is the electron field cannot penetrate fully enclosed areas like rocker panels (where you can get rust). Faraday, back in the 19th century, proved the principle; called a Faraday cage. Don't think anyone has disproved it since. I suppose you could cut holes in your rocker panels and put the pads inside.
Sacrificial anodes are also used in the ground to prevent underground tanks from rusting, but again, they rely on damp soil to allow a current flow. Not much use in a vehicle unless you use accumulated mud to allow current flow.
Like DID, I've had no rust problems with my earlier Maverick and my current Patrol, and I've done absolutely nothing to the vehicles. Most modern vehicles are well primed for rust prevention.
On an old Fiat I had (rust came as standard equipment), I used fish oil, which seemed to stop the rust in its tracks.
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Reply By: Lenticular - Thursday, Feb 19, 2009 at 22:04

Thursday, Feb 19, 2009 at 22:04
Well, I have had one fitted to my 98 Prado since 2000. Does it work ? Well, I can say that it doesn't not work, if you know what I mean. That is, I have no rust at all, despite regular trips to Fraser and Cooloola.

What I can say is that I have several full-depth scratches in the paint. Several major stone chips on the bonnet, and a few on the roof when I dropped roof racks/basket while trying to fit single-handed. You know the ones- they normally bleed rusty stains onto the paintwork. The roof ones are 4-5 years old. The metal under the scratches are a stable dark grey colour- no rust at all.

I had a workmate formerly in the RAAF who told me about their rusting out Unimogs in under 12 months with constant coastal work. They fitted ERP, and ended up keeping them for several years, in pristine condition.

Why not ask the professional beach fishermen or the surf clubs ?

Good science is involved in more than just saying "it doesn't worK, because I said so".

I'll have them on my 4WD and all future ones. Mine cost $300, and it's paid for itself at least 20 times over (and can be transferred to the next vehicle).
AnswerID: 349967

Reply By: obee1212 - Thursday, Feb 19, 2009 at 22:40

Thursday, Feb 19, 2009 at 22:40
There is no scientific evidence to suggest they work in the first place.
any one who has studied a bit of electrical theory would tell you that rust is caused by electric current between disimilar metals across an electroyte. On a boat the electrolyte is the ocean and the two metals all the iron in the ocean and the metal boat. You can use a current to combat this problem but the usual action is to use sacrificial anodes of a less noble metal. that works.

out of the ocean steel will rust without a different metal in the vicinity because the surface of steel contains impurities that set up different potentials and a bit of water and salt will provide the electrolyte. I cant think of a way that applying current would help because its impossible to know where to connect the wires.

Cars these days do pretty well because the undercoat is a lot better and they dont stick chrome all over the place. If you hose your car down regular the rest of the car will wear out before the panels do.

I recommend that people who are interested should google up some questions on the internet.

AnswerID: 349971

Follow Up By: V8 Troopie - Friday, Feb 20, 2009 at 00:25

Friday, Feb 20, 2009 at 00:25
Owen, you said "any one who has studied a bit of electrical theory would tell you that rust is caused by electric current between disimilar metals across an electroyte."

Which begs the question why a piece of black steel left lying out in my back yard all by its own (no other metal near it) started rusting??

Me thinks there is more than one way for steel to get rusty.
FollowupID: 618299

Follow Up By: obee1212 - Friday, Feb 20, 2009 at 10:24

Friday, Feb 20, 2009 at 10:24
From the book by R.M.E. Diamant
The rusting of steel plate
The question now arises : Why does a piece of steel plate which is left out in a damp atmosphere start to corrode? Where are the anode and cathode now?
The answer is that steel is not a uniform metal like gold. It is, in fact, a conglomeration of a lot of crystals with quite different compositions. There is some pure iron, and there are crystals of a material called cementite which is really a compound of iron and carbon. There are crystals of a material called martensite which is a solid solution of carbon in iron, and finally there are even specks of carbon particles, which are very cathodic indeed and therefore readily act in this way in the corrosion cells so formed. After all the cathode of a torch battery is always carbon too. Admittedly all these crystals are tiny, and can normally only be seen with a microscope. But the different forms of iron and iron/carbon compounds form lots of tiny corrosion cells, each complete with its own anode and cathode.
But things can be made a good deal worse if parts of the steel plate are obscured. The trouble is then that the parts where the air can easily get to the surface become cathodes, thereby making all other parts into ready anodes. In other words the differences between the sections on the steel plate become accentuated and corrosion takes place in the form of deep pits.
That is what happens if one gets a deep scratch on a painted panel of a motor car. The steel which is exposed to air becomes the cathode, and immediately the part next to it starts rusting. This is the part of the steel which is just covered by the paint film. This lifts off the paint film and gets a bigger cathode. The rust then spreads deeper and deeper underneath the paint film, and soon the corrosion damage caused is far greater than would have happened if there had not been any paint on the steel in the first place.
An imperfect paint film is far worse from the point of view of corrosion than no paint film at all.
If one covers a large iron or steel article with a coherent coating, be it paint, varnish, enamel or plastic, one must always avoid any imperfection. If even a pinhole is left, where the paint does not cover the base metal adequately, then at this position rusting occurs at a particularly rapid rate. Because all the corrosion is concentrated there, the rust goes really deep. This, for obvious reasons, is often referred to as the "Achilles heel" effect.
Rust always affects little unprotected aieas particularly badly. For example, if you should have an argument with a gatepost while in your car, and the scratch penetrates the paint film and protective phosphate or chromate coating, then you will get very rapid corrosion taking place unless you set to almost immediately and patch up the scratch. Underbody corrosion is always particularly harmful at tiny unprotected spots, particularly if they are hidden from the atmosphere. All crevices, joints and the like are liable to rapid attack and should be specially protected.
One of the worst forms of pinhole attack is that which takes place on plated steel surfaces such as car bumpers. Commercial chromium plating contains copper, nickel and a minutely thin film of chromium. Two of these metals, namely the copper and the nickel, are strongly cathodic to the steel from which the bumper is made, while the third, the chromium, although theoretically somewhat anodic to the iron, is in practice also cathodic. It can be seen therefore that if there should be even a tiny pinhole in the chromium plating, one is immediately in trouble. One then has a classic example of a minute anode"
Hope this explains
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Follow Up By: V8 Troopie - Friday, Feb 20, 2009 at 22:56

Friday, Feb 20, 2009 at 22:56
Thanks for that Owen, an interesting read. My 20 yo troopie knows all about the "pinhole effect" and, unfortunately, shows it too.
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Reply By: Member - Graham H (QLD) - Friday, Feb 20, 2009 at 09:10

Friday, Feb 20, 2009 at 09:10
I put one in a VS Commondoor and still had rust in less than 12 months.
As far as I can see these rate up with other wallet lighteners like Hiclones and anti static straps.

I also have a set of roo frighteners and they MUST work cos I havent hit a roo yet.

AnswerID: 350015

Follow Up By: Rolly - Friday, Feb 20, 2009 at 16:48

Friday, Feb 20, 2009 at 16:48
"I put one in a VS Commondoor and still had rust in less than 12 months. "

Serves you right.
But we are talking about motorcars here. 8D
FollowupID: 618418

Follow Up By: Member - Graham H (QLD) - Friday, Feb 20, 2009 at 17:49

Friday, Feb 20, 2009 at 17:49
Shifted to a Ford when I sold the Commodore still didnt work.

So now what bright comment have you got

Havent put it in the Cruiser as perhaps you may consider it a real car.
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Follow Up By: Rolly - Friday, Feb 20, 2009 at 19:46

Friday, Feb 20, 2009 at 19:46
Same rubbish with a different badge :D

& there's no need to get prickly, I was just joking :)
FollowupID: 618441

Reply By: Dunco (NSW) - Friday, Feb 20, 2009 at 23:51

Friday, Feb 20, 2009 at 23:51
If you paid hundreds of dollars to have it fitted/attached/installed then it will be the best thing ever !!!

If you don't have it, it will be not worth a stamp.

My opinion through a lot of research....snake oil !!!

If it was SO GOOD, it would be sold by everyone like Supercheap Auto and maybe even K-mart Auto, not just at Caravan shows and ebay !!!

AnswerID: 350176

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