Wednesday, Feb 25, 2009 at 21:46
Hi Mark
This was a summary of our trip around Alice; around one month arriving at Alice to leaving
Yulara, including r&m and a rest at Alice, and the softer East Macs.
After a few days shopping, repairs and maintenance we spent a full day at
the Desert Park. Don’t miss the Birds of Prey talk – time your visit to include this. The nocturnal reptile section is also very good. Talks are given at set times here too.
Spent an afternoon at Reptile Park in town. There are other
places in this area, such as Women’s Hall of Fame which we didn’t go to.
Also on the north side of town is the Old Telegraph Station. Can spend half to a full day there – it is the beginning and the history of
Alice Springs.
Spent an afternoon on the tour of the RFDS base in town.
Full day at Motor Museum and Ghan Museum (same location, south of the town).
East macs:
Trephina Gorge large and lovely Park
Campsite. Stayed three nights and did all short walks. Took day trips to Artlunga (historic gold mining area – a full day – highly recommended), and day trip to N’Dhala
Gorge – lots of ancient Aboriginal engravings. Can
camp at N’Dhala in small car park, but couldn’t get in with a caravan. You can also go to Ruby Gap from Trephina, but not time to include it as
well as Artlunga. We didn’t go to Ruby Gap.
Chambers Pillar – not for the faint hearted if towing. It is quite a long way to the Historical Reserve down the Finke road, and 4wd track in from Maryvale had nasty loose sandy patches, a steep winding track over a range, then
sand dune crests (stabilised with
limestone). Not caravan friendly although we got ours in OK. If on a short time frame, this would be a bit far to include. We returned to the Stuart Hwy via the Hugh Stock Route, planning to
camp at
Rainbow Valley, but struck rain so went back to Alice.
Rainbow Valley is so lovely – smooth creamy colourful
sandstone – but the small
camping area doesn’t have room for big rigs so it was lucky we didn’t try and
camp there, but did it in a day trip from Alice.
Our day trip was a very long one. We started at
Stanley Chasm (but obviously not at the mid day moment of light in the chasm, when everyone else goes), took an interesting
Owen Springs Drive (4wd track – not suitable for caravan), saw
Rainbow Valley (although sunset is prime time here), then on to Henbury Meteorite Craters. Got back late.
After shopping and stocking the pantry, we left Alice and headed into the West Macs. First night at Ellery Creek Big Hole – got early enough to get a space to squeeze rig in. Late comers left in a huff, or parked illegally in the day area. Bitumen access road.
Day only access for
Serpentine Gorge – dirt track but OK for caravans. Small car park, so we parked just outside the ‘
gate’. Did NOT take Serpentine Chalet track – site of a failed resort – as this is not suitable for towing. A couple of excellent lookouts – bitumen access. Bitumen access to
Ochre Pits, but with lots of tourist coaches in the coach
parking spaces, there was nowhere to park a caravan at all, so we moved on. Bitumen access to Orminston
Gorge, need to get early to fit a caravan in to one of only a few spots long enough for a caravan (either side on amenities block). This park and
Palm Valley have solar heated showers, and charge $6.60 per person per night, twice the park fee for other parks without showers. See my reviews of all these campsites on Badgers. Took the Pound Walk at Orminston – good walk but quite long.
Redbank Gorge is dirt track access, and has choice of two lovely camps. The lower is a large loop in the bush, but not many bays would fit a caravan. There are 6 or 8 bays high on
the ridge with glorious
views – but it can be windy. Some are long enough to back a big rig into. There is a further track down to the car park, and an easy walk of around 1 km to
the pool (do not swim – warnings due to cold and we saw a lady get into serious strife). People camped next to us took a day walk to summit of Mt Sonder.
We spent two nights there.
The
places with dirt tracks are less high profile, less tourist coaches, less crowds, and more appeal for us.
We took a day trip from Redbank into the little known
Roma Gorge – a small Aboriginal
Rock carving site. 4wd track follows creek bed. 8.5 km track in – signage says high clearance 4wd only – allow 1 hour each way.
Continuing past
Glen Helen (camping and accommodation), the next wonder was Gosse
Bluff. This mysterious impact crater is the most studied in Australia, as no meteor fragments were found. It was concluded that frozen gas hit Earth and made this crater. Lovely car park area, but no camping in the culturally significant park.
Joining the infamous
Mereenie Loop, we headed east towards Hermannsberg to go to
Palm Valley. The roughest part is nearing Hermannsberg. The track in to
Palm Valley is high clearance 4wd, criss crossing the river, but was quite a good track. Lovely park
camp ground, and we spent three days there, and did all the walks. The drive from the
camp to
Palm Valley itself is across
rock, which looks flat, but is not easy to drive over. Last bit is the worst, and some people parked at Fern valley and walked last kilometre – wise move. Some walked down the creek line from
camp – an easy 4 km walk to the Valley of Palms. Easy walk through
Palm Valley, then can climb to rim and walk back over top – smarter idea is to walk to the top, take photos, go back down and return through the shady valley again.
Mereenie Loop to Kings Canyon. Need permit which can be purchased at
Glen Helen or Hermannsberg. This took us all day, as we came across someone who’d broken a spring on their camper trailer on the corrugations.
Both Hermannsberg and Kings Canyon can be accessed by far more hospitable roads from the Alice side.
Kings Canyon resort CP was nice, and the Canyon is a short drive further. Like other walks at Uluru and
Kata Tjuta, the
Rim Walk gets closed on hot days. We started early, as it starts with a long steep climb. It is a spectacular walk and
well worth including. There is a short easy walk through the valley floor for those who can’t take the climb. Two nights at Kings.
We arrived at Uluru two days later. Not impressed with
Yulara resort CP, but it is a must if you want to see this high profile park. Spent three nights there, doing the around
the rock walk at Uluru and Valley of the Winds as
well as another short walk at
Kata Tjuta. We did the latter as a day trip from
Yulara, rather than on our way towards WA. This way we could walk early, as
well as get a full day’s driving before camping on the GCR.
Highlights (all very different) would be: Reptile Park, Motor Museum, Artlunga,
Rainbow Valley,
Redbank Gorge Ridgetop, Gosse
Bluff,
Palm Valley, Kings Canyon
Rim walk,
Kata Tjuta. If you asked me tomorrow, the list would vary.
Motherhen
AnswerID:
351060
Follow Up By: Motherhen - Wednesday, Feb 25, 2009 at 21:47
Wednesday, Feb 25, 2009 at 21:47
I didn't account for the fact you will have been to
Painted Desert, so
Rainbow Valley will be a drop in the ocean.
Mh
FollowupID:
619356
Follow Up By: Willem - Wednesday, Feb 25, 2009 at 22:30
Wednesday, Feb 25, 2009 at 22:30
Motherhen
Next time..............at
Serpentine Gorge.....take a couple of air mattresses with you....deflated....... walk through
pool or swim across....now walk through
Gorge another half kilometre. At end of walk a magnificent narrow
Gorge. Inflate mattresses and float through to the other side touching the cliffs with hands on either side....magic.
Yes. Local knowledge...LOL
Cheers
FollowupID:
619368
Follow Up By: Motherhen - Wednesday, Feb 25, 2009 at 23:10
Wednesday, Feb 25, 2009 at 23:10
Hi Willem - Trouble is - that is a bit too close to WATER for the Old Rooster! People were doing similar at Redbank, then continuing on along
the Gorge. One lady tried swimming and nearly didn't make it out when she suffered hypothermia. Quite an experience, when i didn't think the water felt that cold (at the edge).
Mh
FollowupID:
619377
Follow Up By: Hairy (NT) - Thursday, Feb 26, 2009 at 18:20
Thursday, Feb 26, 2009 at 18:20
Gday,
A mate was out at Redbank a month or so ago after the rain.....he had to swim under a dead cow jammed between the rocks...
Hahahahaha
It is bloody cold! but its fine on an air matress.
Cheers
FollowupID:
619454