Wiring Question

Submitted: Monday, Mar 16, 2009 at 13:35
ThreadID: 66884 Views:1697 Replies:4 FollowUps:2
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Hi, I want to set up a light on a bar attached to my spare tyre frame.

My question relates to wiring.

I will run the power from the battery and I want to put a rocker switch inside the cab that will operate the light.

I am not sure how to run the power to the switch and then from the switch back to the light.

Do I need a relay for this?

Thanks again....
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Reply By: Notso - Monday, Mar 16, 2009 at 13:45

Monday, Mar 16, 2009 at 13:45
Depends on how much current the light draws, if it's driving light style it would probably be best, if it's an LED or lower current draw then a direct line with the switch in line would do. Make sure you put a fuse in whatever you do.
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Reply By: Dave(NSW) - Monday, Mar 16, 2009 at 15:15

Monday, Mar 16, 2009 at 15:15
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Reply By: Bonz (Vic) - Thoughtfully- Monday, Mar 16, 2009 at 17:25

Monday, Mar 16, 2009 at 17:25
Hi Cram,

I would use a relay for sure. That way you only need to run smaller wires thru to the cabin switch. You could switch positive or negative thru the switch, whatever was easiest to pick up in side the cabin.

Fuse the circuit at the battery and run thru your relay back to the light.

Good luck.
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Follow Up By: qubert - Monday, Mar 16, 2009 at 20:43

Monday, Mar 16, 2009 at 20:43
LEDS you can run 8 core telephone wire
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Follow Up By: kcandco - Monday, Mar 16, 2009 at 21:04

Monday, Mar 16, 2009 at 21:04
You raised a very good point Qubert. I wonder at what point the saving on relay and wiring pays for the led lighting? I have a 60 led UFO style light uses batteries bought of ebay for $15.... no wiring needed and puts out similar light to 20w fluoro

regards Kc
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Reply By: Member - Mike DID - Tuesday, Mar 17, 2009 at 08:41

Tuesday, Mar 17, 2009 at 08:41
Assuming it's a 50 watt or less work light.

Have a look at the size of wiring running to your headlights - the copper needs to be a bit thicker than that, due to the length of the run.

Connect a 10 amp fuse as close as possible to the battery positive terminal to ensure fire protection. Then run a wire to one side of the switch. The switch must be rated at 10 amps for DC.

From the other side of the switch run a wire to the light.

From the other side of the light run a wire to the bodywork, making sure that you coat the screw in paint or lanolin grease to prevent corrosion. Every electrical device in your car (except the starter motor) gets its return from the body, so you don't need to run a wire back to the battery - if you were to run an earth wire back to the battery, it would have to be 6 AWG to keep the voltage drop as low as you will get using the bodywork.
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