Water in Fuel circuit fault

If it's like the rest of the Ford ECU's you need to leave it disconnected for at least 30min preferrable 1 hour.

Cheers
Ross

As a starting point I've disconnected all the batteries, we'll see in an hour or so.

Yes this is a thing that I mentioned a few days ago regarding "modern" vehicles with all their "bells and whistles" They are far better to make them basic. The more you have on a vehicle the more that there is to go wrong.

Yes Ray this is the Basic vehicle....i dont have any problem's with the "bells and whistles"...on this tojo.

Image Could Not Be Found

Cheers for now...WilliamH...Bunbury...WA.

I had the batteries disconneced for 1.5 hours.

I have cleared the fault but it comes back again.

So looks like the fault is as the book says WIF CIRCUIT fault.

I'll see it the sensor is removable.

However given that the warning light does not come on on start ignition, does that mean that the circuit is open and therefore producing the fault? ie blown globe.

How do you test for this?

If this is the case how on earth do you get to the instument panel fault light without making it a days work disassembling the dash.

I don't know if a blown globe would cause the fault. In a BA falcon they won't.

Would suggest the sensor is more likely to be faulty or the wiring to the sensor.

I know its about 5 min and 10 screws to access the dash in an 1986 F100 don't know how long it would be in a late model F250.

Cheers
Ross

I got this from a US forum didn't like the sounds of it so I'm off to pull the sensor out!!!!!

Just as well I have all day with nothing else to do!!!!! NOT GRRRRRRRR


To remove the dash panel, it's easier if you can remove the radio first with some u-shaped radio removal tools. You can find them at Wal-mart for about $3.00. If you don't have these tools, or can't get the radio out, you can still remove the dash, it's just a little less convenient. The front dash cover will just pull out with your hands. I started on the driver's door side, and worked my way around from there. Once the front is pulled off, you'll need to unplug the wiring harnesses from the headlight, and 4x4 switch, (if equipped), and the radio, (if not removed before dash cover). You'll need a 9/32" (7mm?) socket, or nut driver to remove the A/C control panel, and the instrument panel. For automatics, you'll need to reach under the dash, and un-clip the gearshift indicator, and slide it down, and out of the instrument panel before you can move it much. You may also have to tilt the wheel, and move the gear selector down, to free up the instrument panel. Then, you can unplug the wiring harnesses from the instrument panel, and completely remove it to a bench, or just maneuver it around to gain access to the bulbs. I used pliers to twist the plastic bulb retainers counter-clockwise, and remove the bulbs. I used dielectric grease on the new bulbs, and cleaned around the dash and everything really well while it was all apart.

Hi Gone Troppo

I am so pleased to read that she GOES at last. I'll keep a note of what happened in case we should ever suffer the same. We too have a problem with rats nesting in vehicles and destroying what ever they choose to make their nests. Our son calls the tractor he has been called on to fix a few times "rat's nest tractor", and the wiring for its headlights is beyond redemption.

Motherhen