HJ60 engine controllers
Submitted: Thursday, Apr 30, 2009 at 14:33
ThreadID:
68382
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7414
Replies:
7
FollowUps:
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WhiteHJ
Hi,
I had a question a little while ago about glow-plug woes in a late HJ60 that had come down from the tropics to chilly Melb and didn't want to play anymore. It tuned out not to be the plugs after all (although I bet the thorough clean I gave all the contact areas wouldn't have hurt).
It seems the problem is the engine controller servo switch unit. When I unclipped the arm, the thing started first time and ran like a dream, even after the chilly night we had. Clipped the arm back on, drove around for 20 minutes, stopped at the servo to fill up with Victorian winter-grade diesel. Came out after paying and wouldn't start. Unclipped the arm again and away she went.
So, the question is, how hard are these units to get hold of and where would be the best bet in
Geelong ? Having found one, any hints/gotchas for a newbie in replacing them, or is it just a bolt off, bolt on job ?
Thanks
Andrew
Reply By: Geoff (Newcastle, NSW) - Thursday, Apr 30, 2009 at 16:12
Thursday, Apr 30, 2009 at 16:12
Andrew,
If it is the gizmo I think you are talking about then it is the EDIC motor.
It has an arm on it connected to a rod that goes to the injector pump.
They are dead easy to change, unplug the wiring and then unbolt. The installation is reverse of above.
Just make sure it isn't some other electrical gremlin preventing the motor from being driven by the vehicles electrics.
Does the car flat out refuse to start? Or does it fire, run for a couple of seconds and then cutout?
The EDIC motor is tied in with the oil pressure sender. If the engine doesn't reach oil pressure in a certain number of seconds it shuts down the engine.
This is to prevent siezing of the engine if it runs backwards. The Toyota H, 2H and 1HZ engines can be run backwards but the oil pump doesn't work in the reverse direction.
Geoff
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AnswerID:
362451
Follow Up By: WhiteHJ - Thursday, Apr 30, 2009 at 16:34
Thursday, Apr 30, 2009 at 16:34
Hi Geoff,
Yep, that's the beastie alright.
With the arm in place, it flat out refuses to start. With the arm removed, it starts and runs fine.
Sounds like it shouldn't be a hassle to replace, provided I can lay my hands on one.
Andrew
FollowupID:
630163
Follow Up By: oldpop - Thursday, Apr 30, 2009 at 18:11
Thursday, Apr 30, 2009 at 18:11
The EDIC motor is tied in with the oil pressure sender. If the engine doesn't reach oil pressure in a certain number of seconds it shuts down the engine if the engine is to thick like wrong grade same problem happens
Oldpop
FollowupID:
630179
Follow Up By: oldpop - Thursday, Apr 30, 2009 at 18:13
Thursday, Apr 30, 2009 at 18:13
Should read engine oil fat fingers small keys should be 15w40 grade
Oldpop
FollowupID:
630180
Follow Up By: WhiteHJ - Friday, May 08, 2009 at 16:26
Friday, May 08, 2009 at 16:26
Hi Oldpop.
Well, I finally got the chance to do an oil change, new filter and 15w-40 oil. Still the same, the EDIC works occasionally, but not all the time.
FollowupID:
631539
Reply By: Serendipity of Mandurah (WA) - Thursday, Apr 30, 2009 at 19:01
Thursday, Apr 30, 2009 at 19:01
Hi Andrew
Good to
check things like the oil first. Work on a principle of checking the simplest things first. I have heard of people pulling their EDIC motor apart and finding it is just a seized bearing. Not sure on that as I thought they were a sealed unit. As others say they are easy to change.
David
AnswerID:
362480
Reply By: NickDG - Thursday, Apr 30, 2009 at 20:21
Thursday, Apr 30, 2009 at 20:21
When I had my 60 Series had simular problem but it
mine happened when I was driving along.The oil senor was faulty and it kept trying to shut the motor down by activeating the EPIC motor to cut off the fuel.I replaced the Sensor and had no more problems.
AnswerID:
362496
Reply By: Member - Stuart P (WA) - Thursday, Apr 30, 2009 at 22:55
Thursday, Apr 30, 2009 at 22:55
make damn sure the body earths are ok clean all of them there are at least 5. had this fault 20 yrs ago as an apprentice . was only an earthing problem . the fault could also be inside the cab
AnswerID:
362523
Reply By: get outmore - Thursday, Apr 30, 2009 at 23:16
Thursday, Apr 30, 2009 at 23:16
Wreckers will be your freind but they arnt cheap 2nd hand been there done that
there is a modlue that controls edic motor function but he edic motor can shag out as
well
get smeone to glow and start then stop the vehicle while you are watching what the edic motor does. from memory as soon as you put the key to glow the edic motor should pull right back to overfuel start position - wen started it should move forward a bit to run snd when turned off forwards to stop. The low oilcutoff will operate after about 5 seconds but it is common for it to kick in after a cold start but it should run properly after a second start
AnswerID:
362525
Follow Up By: get outmore - Thursday, Apr 30, 2009 at 23:20
Thursday, Apr 30, 2009 at 23:20
sorry I will reiterate - there is a control module I cant recall the location that controls edic motor function - they can and do crap out - the motor itself may not be at fault
FollowupID:
630239
Reply By: bbuzz - Friday, May 01, 2009 at 21:38
Friday, May 01, 2009 at 21:38
Had the same problem. Not the EDIC but an earthing problem. The lecko found a short in the rear indicator light. Then the Glow Plug timer stopped working and the plugs were burnt out.
Replaced the plugs and had a manual button put in for the plugs. Count five seconds and start.
Had this setup for 8 years.
AnswerID:
362696
Reply By: ron54 - Friday, May 08, 2009 at 13:52
Friday, May 08, 2009 at 13:52
Hello there, similar help needed - I have an HJ60 with the 2 H. Went to the garage this morning to find the HJ60 making a clicking sound. Opened the hood (engine was off and no key in the ignition) and found the EDIC connecting rod going back and
forth from start to shutoff positions and would not stop. I turned on the ignition, didn't start it though and shut off the ignition. Then a few seconds later it stopped.
I then couldn't start it as it was positioned in the shut off position. I disconnected the rod and was able to start it etc.
Any thoughts on why it would start going back and
forth with no key & shut off??
Thanks
AnswerID:
363847