Landcruiser drive-line slop?

Submitted: Sunday, May 17, 2009 at 11:54
ThreadID: 68915 Views:7113 Replies:5 FollowUps:1
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Any ideas why my 100 series, 2001 cruiser has a drive-line lag/slop whilst decreasing then increasing power (not braking) at cruise speed?
I have replaced the front drive shafts, had the auto trans checked, and all the drive-line checked Ie:- uni joints and bushes etc. 220,000ks so something is possibly worn? Have I missed something or could there be something in the diffs? Great car otherwise!
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Reply By: Inkbandit79 - Sunday, May 17, 2009 at 12:00

Sunday, May 17, 2009 at 12:00
Hi Chris, Try Greasing the slip joint in your driveline I had the same problem and just greased it make sure you use a high temp grease because other wise it will just spit out when it warms, I learnt the hard way and grease spit all over the exhaust and underbody and it bloody stinks!
AnswerID: 365364

Reply By: Outbackswine - Sunday, May 17, 2009 at 12:09

Sunday, May 17, 2009 at 12:09
Quite possibly slop between crownwheel and pinion gears...
AnswerID: 365365

Reply By: Graham & Lynne - Sunday, May 17, 2009 at 21:28

Sunday, May 17, 2009 at 21:28
get centre diff backlash adjusted

from Graham
AnswerID: 365430

Reply By: viz - Sunday, May 17, 2009 at 22:06

Sunday, May 17, 2009 at 22:06
Same model, 100,000 kays. Had a growling noise on a trailing throttle, much banging and bleep ching, took it to the mechanic he said start with the drive shafts. Got Metropolitan Drive Shafts in Granville (Sydney) to do the job - expected a recon, but they said some very unkind words that rhymed with "truck" and threw them into the bin. Amongst other things, they were starting to twist - 240+ kw don't help the cause..

$2,600+ later, bran new customs shafts - drive train feels like new - no snatch, no banging and more important, no growl. Ted, the manager of MDS, was very specific on the the quality of Toyota's slip joints and their manufacturing process - again blunt and to the point (and with 35 years experience I tend to listen), though he conceded the Toyota universal joints are good and rarely cause trouble.

So - what did you replace - the lot? Or just the universal bearings? Be aware that Toyota manufactures the shafts the cheap way - butt welding the universal onto the shaft - causes all sorts of off-centre and balance issues. Did you replace with genuine? Your symptoms sound so much like mine did - surprised that a new shaft did not fix the problem, but if the new were genuine rather than top quality after-market you may be re-introducing the problem.

Re-reading your post: you will need most definitely to have a close look at the rear shaft - ALWAYS - when you do one you have to do both in an AWD vehicle, no exceptions (15 years of Range Rover experience before the Cruiser).

After that next stop is the front diff pinion bearings - they are the next weakest link, though with that you also generally get a growling noise - have the oil drained and checked for funny metallic stuff.

From there I shudder to think what might be the problem - some serious $$$ to sort, though you say that the auto checked out, that leaves the tranny - not good. However from what you say I think you really gotta check that rear shaft.

Be interesting to see what the result will be. And to make sure that we are speaking the same language - by driveshaft I mean the shaft between the transfer case and diff.

Good luck!

PS - one major contributing factor to drive train bangin and snatchin, and which I think contributed to the demise of the driveshafts so early (the are designed to respond to shock loads by flexing) - I initially insisted on using Dextron II ATF in the auto. Yes I got very solid gear changes, but very snatchy downchanges especially on the kick down. In trying to sort that I was persuaded to use the latest and greatest synthetic ATF - made a HUGE difference in the smoothness of the gear changes. Not going back to Dextron - sorry!
AnswerID: 365434

Reply By: Horacehighroller - Sunday, May 17, 2009 at 22:08

Sunday, May 17, 2009 at 22:08
Gday ChrisByles,

Most probably it's at the front hubs.
Pull the little cap off the centre of the hub and get someone to turn the front driveshaft back & forth(trans in "N", wheels on ground.)

You will see the stubb axle move within the plate on the end of the hub(sorry - can't remember what it's called)

The stubb axle and that heavy splined plate are a "set" and are available on ebay with a mention of "curing" transmission slop/slack.

AnswerID: 365435

Follow Up By: Horacehighroller - Tuesday, May 19, 2009 at 00:14

Tuesday, May 19, 2009 at 00:14
They also develop alot of slack in the transfer case.

FollowupID: 633308

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