re. camp shower

Is it a secret, or a mod that can be shared?

MM him Shaker and find out

Hi fellas,

I was replying to you last weekend when I collapsed and was rushed to hospital with pneumonia. I am home now but will reply properly when i am well enough. sorry. Ian

Gee that's no good mate!
Hope you are fully recovered real soon.

Yer me too Hope youre back on top of that health thing sooner than you know

Hi again fellas. I am back from the dead after a bit of a scare. Thanks for the good wishes that came from total strangers. What a good bunch of forumites we have!
Now to explain the set up I have attached a picture that is worth a thousand words.Image Could Not Be Found. I just previewed the post and the picture is only in text form but I will continue in case it posts normally.
Basically the output from the pump goes first to a 2 way switching valve.During heating up of the 20 litres is the jerry the water goes as normal through the H/E and then to the rose and back into the jerry. When water in jerry is hot enough the 2 way valves are changed to direct the pump output directly to the rose, completely bypassing the H/E. The can not be any scalding from water lying in the H/E during soap up, washing hair etc because that water never leaves the unit. Simple plumbing answer to a serious problem. When I first did the mod to my Twine I rang john twine and he said "what a good idea".
I in fact think manufacturers are leaving them selves open to trouble by continuing to market a product so dangerous and the trying to hide behind a sticker that warns of the trouble. Bit like Nissan saying that they know the back left wheel sometimes comes off by itself but putting a sticker on the dash warning the driver.
Ok, I will post this and see if the picture appears. If not I will try again.
Regards, IanImage Could Not Be Found

Whoops, added the pic twice but better that than not at all. Sorry.

Ian ... I used to run my shower heat exchange directly to the shower head, one pass from the cold container to the shower head like most do but i tried just recycling the clean water through the shower head back through the cold container of water and heated the whole container to the same temp and then turn the engine off. Now you can shower in peace and not disturb the others around you, stop, start the water and lather up and still turn the water back on to to same temp as before.. Safer for younger ones also.. I took that tip from Roachie some years back, he gets it right occasionally :)) !!! Michael

yes Michael, that was what I first thought of but you still have hot coolant in the H/E until the circulating shower water cools it down. With my system as soon as the jerry water is hot enough I shut the engine down, switch the valves over and instantly and totally isolate the problem. There is NO chance of a scald especially when others are using the shower who may not be quite so aware and not really listening to instructions while contemplating stripping off somewhere strange.
I am much happier having total control over the problem and for the cost of maybe $15 and an hours work why wouldn't I be. Seems a no brainer to me.

Thanks for the "credit" Michael.... hahaha

My idea is slightly different and wouldn't be possible if the supply hose was coming directly from a gerry can.

We actually decant the jerry can of water into a large 20 litre "nappy bucket" which is placed in the shower tent. The water is recycled through the heat exchanger until it is hot enough, then the engine can be switched off. The shower head/rose does have a on/off slide button to control water flow, BUT WE NEVER TURN THE WATER OFF using this control, as it is THAT action which has the potential to scald the user.

Instead, we simply drop the shower head/rose back into the bucket during soap-up etc and the water continues to circulate. This would not be possible if your supply water was being drawn directly from the jerry can (it's a bit hard to drop the shower head into the jerry can...hahaha).

So, by doing things this way, I have negated the need to add more plumbing under the bonnet (knowing me I'd stuff it up anyway)....

Roachie

Hi Roachie. Yes you right. That obviously works as long as the flow is maintained. We use the on/off slider on the rose to stop the flow during soap up etc. We usually have others using our shower as well as ourselves and I was concerned about scalding so "eliminated" any possibility. I agree with "a bit less plumbing under the bonnet", that's for sure.

Ian, The extra hoses is my main concern. All original hoses are supported and cant rub on anything so anything you add has that potential. My heat exchange, its 600mm long and sits on the bash plate inside the bull bar so i have fairly long hoses to chech for rubbing every now and then. I really believe, the simpler the better. As for the heat exchange, i dont see the cooling down a problem, as soon as the engine stops, the engine water stops so equalising the both sides of the exchange is very quick.. I guess thats whats good about everyone doing things a bit different, we can always gain something from each other. regards Michael

I agree Bonz. One kettle of hot water + one kettle of cold water into a plastic bucket, shower head attaches via suction cup to side of Troopy and voila, a 2 minute shower of pre-determined temperature. Works a treat and costs $25.
Oh, ............ and no need to be running the engine.

When my wife is showering my engine is ALWAYS running Allan, but I know what you mean :0)

LOL Bonz!

Ah Bonz,you are a very naughty boy !!! LOL!!

G'day John,
I got a reply from someone " can't remember who" about a Helton ,so I went to the Helton site on heat exchangers and come up with the shower all inclusive for $249 "Maybe that was in yank $ I had better check". I also checked Twine and Glind but was impressed with the Helton so I'll do a bit more home work on it. It will have to wait for a month though as I'm off to out back Qld. on Tuesday, to bloody cold in Southcoast Vic.
Cheers,
TerryC.