Savannah Way

Submitted: Sunday, Jul 19, 2009 at 18:43
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We are hiring a 4wd bush camper in Darwin and driving to Cairns and being new at this have lots of queries as we prepare. After looking at Google Earth, we wonder how hard is it to find the right track/road from east of Hells Gate Roadhouse to Bowthorn and down to Lawn Hill NP? How rough is this road and would it be better to go down the Wills Dev Rd to Gregory and then into Lawn Hill? Is it worth staying at King Ash Bay Fishing Club or should we stay in Borroloola - we want to do a 1/2 day fishing trip if we can find one but won't be fishing when camped. Is it easy to top up drinking water along the way at caravan parks etc and is the water OK for drinking? How much do people tend to take? Is there internet access? Wireless? much along the way - how do you check road conditions etc? It would be great to hear from anyone who has recently done the trip. We are thinking of staying at Butterfly Springs, Lorella Springs, Hells Gate, Borroloola, Adels Grove, Burketown, Karumba. Where is the best place to get detailed maps - we have Explore Aust's Qld and NT ones - can we get better ones?
Thank you so much if you can help as the more we investigate the more we want to find our so that this is a great trip and encourages us to do many more.
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Reply By: Travelling Pixie - Sunday, Jul 19, 2009 at 19:28

Sunday, Jul 19, 2009 at 19:28
We took a track from Doomadgee to Adele's Grove across some paddocks. Fortunately we had the benefit of a GPS to make sure we were heading in the right direction. If you have a GPS I can post the track log for you. The instructions we were given were something like go right, left, left, right and you'll be fine. They made sense but not something I would rely on.

I found King Ash bay to be a bit dry and dusty. If you're into fishing then it's probably OK but most people that stay out there seem to have boats, or access to them. Borroloola isn't much better and in our circumstances we had an enforced stay while waiting for some repairs. I found neither of them to be a "destination". King Ash Bay is about 45min drive from Borroloola (from memory)

Water is available most places. It can be used for drinking. Although we carried most of our water from the bigger towns we passed through.

If you want to camp at Lawn Hill then I believe that it is advanced bookings only. Otherwise Adele's Grove is your next option. AG can fill up also so perhaps book ahead there.

Karumba, from memory, requires booking ahead also. There's two big parks there.

Internet access is available at Borroloola library but most people traveling seem to have 3G internet access these days.

From memory Hell's Gate fly population was extremely friendly and persistent. Lots of dusty roads around there.

Check with local police or other travelers on road conditions. Most roads are passable with basic 4wd vehicle, water crossings are your only real worry with a road vehicle (unless you get alot of rain out there). Most good maps will cover the roads you need out there.
AnswerID: 375233

Follow Up By: Member - Paul F1 (NSW) - Monday, Jul 20, 2009 at 07:37

Monday, Jul 20, 2009 at 07:37
Dear Travelling Pixie - Thank you for your useful comments - we will book ahead as you have suggested and probably try and do an organised fishing trip from Borroloola for 1/2 day.
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Reply By: Sevro - Sunday, Jul 19, 2009 at 21:15

Sunday, Jul 19, 2009 at 21:15
Hi Paul, its been 2 years since I've been out that way so I'm a bit rusty but when you leave Hells Gate Roadhouse and travel east towards Doomadgee about 2/3rds along the way is a well signed turnoff to Kingfisher Camp which is on Bowthorn Station. The campground has mangers residence and some essentials (no fuel) showers and toilets and is located on the Nicholson river and I think it is superb. From memory you can book sites. As i said its been about 2 years since i travelled through there for work so I cant remember times but I'm sure its about 70 or 80 klms form KFC to Lawn Hill.

It will definitely save you some time going that way instead of going via Gregory Downs, and the road wont be much different to what you've already travelled.

If you want more info I'm back at work on Tuesday and I get you distances and times and maybe the number for KFC.

Cheers
AnswerID: 375270

Follow Up By: Member - Paul F1 (NSW) - Monday, Jul 20, 2009 at 07:41

Monday, Jul 20, 2009 at 07:41
Dear Sevro - We are still unsure whether we will travel via KFC and do have the number there. However, times and distances would be handy. Our major concern was the track in and we are in two minds whether to take it or go around the long way. We will be travelling in a hire 4wd bush camper. Thanks for the help - Paul
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Reply By: Peter_n_Margaret - Monday, Jul 20, 2009 at 08:46

Monday, Jul 20, 2009 at 08:46
There are a few pics in this slideshow that include that route Paul. Couple of years ago now.
BTW, there was no fuel at Hells Gate Roadhouse.
Gt a HEMA map of The Gulf.

Cheers,
Peter
AnswerID: 375335

Reply By: Member - Oldplodder (QLD) - Monday, Jul 20, 2009 at 08:48

Monday, Jul 20, 2009 at 08:48
Went through from Borroloola to Lawn Hill last August, via King Fisher camp, towing an off road camper trailer.
The main Savannah way is reasonable condition. Noticed that you get corrugations on the redish dirt sections, and small amounts of bulldust in the greyish areas. River crossings were well down being August. Some a little rocky, but only about 20 to 40 cm deep. Take your time and you will be fine. We sat on about 70 to 80km/hr slowing down for some sections. Grader was working at the time, so some sections were quite good.

Access to Kingfisher camp are station tracks, but not bad condition. Minor corrugations in places. OK at 30 to 40km /hr. Took about an hour to get to KC from the Savannah way.
We took the back road out of KC - Bowthorn, down to Lawn Hill. Have been to LH about 10 years ago, and good memories of the national park camping area. The national park camp ground was a dust bowl this time, but with the recent rain most probably has come up pretty good. It is not too caravan friendly though. Pole seperators around the camp sites, with a caravan/CT area for those who must tow :o) We stayed at Adels Grove this time, pleasant spot. 20 min drive to Lawn Hill. Got the first hire canoe out for the paddle up the gorge again this time at 8am, magic. Road from KC to AG is signposted and took us about 4 hours. Some slightly rougher sections in places, but in general not too bad, worth the short cut.

You can hire a boat at KC for fishing.

Didn't stay at Hells Gate, drove from Borroloola to KC the same day, 10am to 4pm., with a couple of stops on the way. We actually stayed at Cape Crawford/Heart Break Hotel rather than Borroloola.

All the rain over Jan/Feb/March will have changed road conditions, but I imagine that the roads will be graded back to similar condition this year.

The places and treks area on Exploroz has some good notes and GPS routes you can download.

Karumba and east to Cairns we did about 10 years ago, where we got to Lawn Hill and turned right, so I don't have any up to date information on that section. This time we were heading home to Brisbane from Darwin, via Cloncurry.

Only had Next G phone and internet at Darwin to Mataranka, Borroloola (near the boat ramp the best) and Cloncurry. Small amount outside the mine just east of the Heart Break Hotel.

Fuel at Borroloola, Adels Grove, Burk & Wills road house, and then you might want to head north to Karumba, or earlier at Gregory Downs. Big free camping spot on the west side of the Gregory River at Gregory Downs.
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Follow Up By: Travelling Pixie - Monday, Jul 20, 2009 at 12:44

Monday, Jul 20, 2009 at 12:44
Cape Crawford is a nice enough road house to stay although when we were there they had the noisiest generator I have ever heard!

The countryside around there is beautiful.
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Reply By: Peter_n_Margaret - Monday, Jul 20, 2009 at 08:53

Monday, Jul 20, 2009 at 08:53
Paul, there are some pics of your route on this Slideshow
Grab a HEMA map of the Gulf.
There was no fuel at Hells Gate Roadhouse a couple of years ago.

Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 Motorhome
AnswerID: 375337

Reply By: Member - Norm C (QLD) - Monday, Jul 20, 2009 at 11:16

Monday, Jul 20, 2009 at 11:16
Paul, we did much of the trip you are planning four years ago. Although road conditions vary quite a bit, you should have no problems with the roads if you drive to conditions.

Lawn Hill is well worth the visit. Make sure you get there early to hire a canoe. We made sure we were first on the water and got some spectacular photos. Adel's Grove is good for camping and should not need advance booking.

We are currently at King Ash Bay and as you can see, we have internet (and mobile phone) access - both via Next G and an external antenna. In and near most of the towns, you will have access, but outside towns it is patchy at best. If you stay in the Borroloola area, it is worth the extra drive to King Ash Bay. There is a van park in Borroloola, but it is not highly regarded.

There are one or two hire boats at King Ash Bay (and some house boats). Check at the KAB Service Station on your way in if interested. There are also a couple of people who do fishing charters, but I'm not sure if they are registered, have insurance etc. This link is to a recent fishing report I posted:
King Ash Bay Fishing Report

I didn't see a reference to when you plan the trip in your post. As the weather warms, there will be a much better chance of catching a Barra in the area you will be travelling. Be croc aware and don't camp too close to the water, and definitly no swimming (but you can at Lorella Springs).

Norm C
AnswerID: 375361

Follow Up By: Travelling Pixie - Monday, Jul 20, 2009 at 12:42

Monday, Jul 20, 2009 at 12:42
I stayed at and found the van park at Borroloola to be quite good. Some shady, level and grassed sites and the amenities were clean.
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Follow Up By: Member - Norm C (QLD) - Monday, Jul 20, 2009 at 13:19

Monday, Jul 20, 2009 at 13:19
Travelling Pixie, you are one up on me. I have never stayed at the CP in Borroloola, though we have visited the town on dozens of occasions. It is good that you have posted based on personal experience.

My brief comment above was based on the experience (as related to me) of two separate campers I met at KAB this year. Both had stayed at the CP, but after one night, decided to move out of town to King Ash Bay. I would simply say that both stated that they were more comfortable after the move. I'll leave it at that.


Norm C
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Reply By: sunland greg - Monday, Jul 20, 2009 at 17:39

Monday, Jul 20, 2009 at 17:39
Paul,

came up from Adels Grove through Kingfisher Camp to the Savannah Way 6 weeks ago towing 3 ton dirt road van..The track is well signposted all the way. A bit slow going from Kingfisher Camp to Adels Grove as there is about 22 gates to open & close..Only One greek crossing with water in it, about 40 cm deep at the time..no problems..Kingfisher camp very nice, good mown green grass..collect firewood on the way in.
Cya
Greg
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Follow Up By: Travelling Pixie - Monday, Jul 20, 2009 at 19:24

Monday, Jul 20, 2009 at 19:24
those greek crossings can be trick ;)
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Reply By: Russ n Sue - Monday, Jul 20, 2009 at 20:30

Monday, Jul 20, 2009 at 20:30
We're at Burketown right now, having done pretty much the route that you intend to take. Roads are all OK, mild corrugations mostly with just a couple of bad sections.

Give Borrooloola a miss. There is a nice free camp spot 107 Km East on the Robinson River. Most of the fishing spots are busy at the moment. The caravan park here at Burketown (quite nice - except for grumpy bloke in the office) is full at present.

None of the creek crossings will give you any trouble - we got through with a 21' caravan without bumping the bottom on any of them. Water levels are low too.

Cheers

Russ
AnswerID: 375433

Reply By: joff1 - Tuesday, Jul 21, 2009 at 23:23

Tuesday, Jul 21, 2009 at 23:23
We just came across east to west along most of what you are talking about.

The road is ok if a bit snotty in sections. Take it easy and have a look around. There is nothing that would challenge a decent vehicle. That said, some friends of ours in a very heavy Rodeo lost a brake line and snapped a leaf spring.

Going back east you have a number of camping options;

Roper Bar; sweet FA but you can get fuel and supplies. Good showers at the camp grounds. $10pppn $6 for kids. Pay at store.

Tomato Is; Free camp full of fisho's

Town Creek, free camp. drive past the bush camps and out onto the rock platform overlooking the river.

Go look at the Southern Lost City as well

Butterfly Springs is nice. Big water hole if a little cold. Nat Park so basic ammenities.

Lorrella is good too, 30km off Nathans Rd (Savannah Way) but being a commercial enterprise, better ammenities. And you can buy beer off Rhett. $10pppn kids free. Nice warm spring creek.

Borroloola; Everyone bags it but we were there for 2 weeks down by the little boat ramp (not the main one). 5min from town. Supplies availalable (bit exxy but look where you are). Water is fine. Fuel; Dist $1.57 ULP $1.65 (don't buy at the BP distributor - $1.72). Good medical centre too. So I found out after tring to take my finger off with a bow saw. The town is a bit messy but I've seen worse.

King Ash Bay and Batten Pt did nothing for me. If you have a boat and did nothing but fish you would prolly like it.

We did a night on the side of the road just west of the Woolagarang which was a great spot.

Hell's Gate is a dump.

There is a sign post before Doomagee for King Fisher Camp and the road from there to Lawn Hill is well enough marked.

We never went to KFC but came out onto the Savannah Way at Doomagee. That route cut 20odd km off the run but I don't think it mattered much. I don't know if there was a sign at that intersection.

Lawn Hill is typical Nat Park (we really don't want you here you vandal). Small spots, no fires, cold showers. Adels is better but, of cauce, twice the price. You can just blow into Adels to get a spot at the Nat Park grounds but don't expect there to be any sites left.

From not far out of Lawn Hill toward Gregory Downs, the dirt road is packed with Road Trains.

Kurumba is good if you are a nomad with a caravan and a tinny on a folding trailer



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Follow Up By: joff1 - Tuesday, Jul 21, 2009 at 23:29

Tuesday, Jul 21, 2009 at 23:29
pic

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Follow Up By: jackablue - Thursday, Jul 23, 2009 at 23:08

Thursday, Jul 23, 2009 at 23:08
You must have really like that Katherine show, saw your 4x4 there all night.

At Katherine Information Im sure I saw a Hema map from Start to Finish on the Savanah way and it was free. Thought that was pretty good!
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Follow Up By: joff1 - Saturday, Jul 25, 2009 at 11:56

Saturday, Jul 25, 2009 at 11:56
We was watchin the Rodeo lol..
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