Diesel owners..Is oils, oils? Or aint oils, oils. Have you noticed a change??
Submitted: Wednesday, Jul 22, 2009 at 17:21
ThreadID:
70884
Views:
5215
Replies:
7
FollowUps:
11
This Thread has been Archived
Smudger
My 80 series diesel has only 300k on the clock. Has been
well looked after and is still in great nick. Compressions are great, she's responsive. Oil and filter changed every 5 thou by both owners. Has never smoked until the last 2 months, but since the last oil change she's digested almost 4 litres of oil in 2000km.
Mechanic reckons he's seen this happening to other unlikely diesels, says he's seen them settle back down after a couple of thou ks and stop burning oil. He's spoken to oil company types and they've told him that the formulas of some of the top-of-range products have been changed, to suit the new age diesels. But they're not advising us plebs, because they don't want to go through the expense of re-establishing new brands rather than maintain high market levels for their existing products.
Sounds like a consumer's conspiracy theory, but it would explain why my truck has developed such a sudden taste for oil, withour any other symptoms.
Has anyone else noticed similar in their deisel?
Reply By: get outmore - Wednesday, Jul 22, 2009 at 17:29
Wednesday, Jul 22, 2009 at 17:29
- No 4L ofoil in 2000km tells me its cracked a ring or suchlike
AnswerID:
375690
Follow Up By: dbish - Wednesday, Jul 22, 2009 at 21:34
Wednesday, Jul 22, 2009 at 21:34
If motor has still got good compression, Oil controll rings if worn or lost their tension can cause lots off blue smoke and @large oil consumption. I seriously doubt valve stem seals would cause that much oil consumption. Did the mechanic put diesel engine oil in,or petrol eng oil. Ive never seen a diesel sudenly use that much oil after a service, in 13 yrs of working in a country ford delership. I serviced a lot of Mazda/Ford/Nissan diesels for farmers.
FollowupID:
643063
Reply By: Member - Johny boy (NSW) - Wednesday, Jul 22, 2009 at 18:03
Wednesday, Jul 22, 2009 at 18:03
Hi Smudger,
Mate I would be doing another compression test on all 6 CYLs just to be sure ,I have heard of when you change oils that you can expect to lose a bit between
services until the motor beds back in but I'm no mechanic when it comes to diesels ,yet I must agree that 4ltrs in 2000ks is a bit much .
AnswerID:
375697
Follow Up By: get outmore - Wednesday, Jul 22, 2009 at 18:48
Wednesday, Jul 22, 2009 at 18:48
I regulary use whatever oils cheapest and have never even got close to needing to top up oil.
If your adding oil to a 1HZ between 5000km changes - its got issues
FollowupID:
643027
Follow Up By: Max - Sydney - Wednesday, Jul 22, 2009 at 19:25
Wednesday, Jul 22, 2009 at 19:25
Way out of line - I reckon I'd find a mechanic willing to do a compression test for me, not just give you a line about oils settling in. At 315,000 km I don't need to top up between oil changes, and have noticed no change in recent times.
I see you are in NSW - you could try NRMA Motorserve, they are claiming to be the bees knees, or else a good 4WD mechanic.
The only thing you could try is Cost Effective maintenance's Flushing Oil Concentrate
http://www.costeffective.com.au/products_page.php . I do put that in every second oil change or so and it does get a lot more out with an oil drain.
Max
FollowupID:
643032
Follow Up By: fisho64 - Wednesday, Jul 22, 2009 at 20:51
Wednesday, Jul 22, 2009 at 20:51
"I have heard of when you change oils that you can expect to lose a bit between
services until the motor beds back in"
Im afraid this is BOLLOCKS!
as I have said before many times, the difference between a cheap oil and expensive oil, pricewise might be 100%, actual lubricationwise might be 10%. As getoutmore does, use the cheaper oil of correct standard and change more often if you feel the need.
If you can get double the oil for the same price change it more often and your engine will be better off (marginally).
You are paying for marketing.
FollowupID:
643049
Follow Up By: Krakka - Thursday, Jul 23, 2009 at 06:07
Thursday, Jul 23, 2009 at 06:07
Exactly right, if the oil is the recommended grade and viscosity I will always buy the cheaper one. Changing oil and filter at 5000km there is no point in using synthetic or top "name" oils. Have been using Repco for a while now at $50.00 for 10lt is a good buy in my opinion.
Krakka
FollowupID:
643104
Reply By: Member - Lotzi (QLD) - Wednesday, Jul 22, 2009 at 19:26
Wednesday, Jul 22, 2009 at 19:26
Hi Smudger
We have used the following for years on truck and bus motors, sounds like your motor needs to get rid of some carbon re sticky rings.
CEM (Cost Effective Maintenance) ph 07 32714138 in Carole
Park Qld,
http://www.costeffective.com.au/
Just have a look at their site and make your own mind up.
Cheers
AnswerID:
375709
Reply By: poppypat - Wednesday, Jul 22, 2009 at 20:07
Wednesday, Jul 22, 2009 at 20:07
Hi it is your fuel injection system i tryed to explain but the site mucks about your over fueling if you change your oil every 5k money is no proplem so your mechanic should calibrate the pump and if you can see if he can get cav injector kit for the are great on Jap stuff and take the tappet cover off and loof at the stem seals i have been working on Cat,s Cummins,MAN Ship motors retired now but i hope that helps you a bit a Toyota motor should get at lest 8k before a rebuild regards Pat.
AnswerID:
375720
Follow Up By: poppypat - Wednesday, Jul 22, 2009 at 20:20
Wednesday, Jul 22, 2009 at 20:20
Sorry about the miskeys Look at the seals and i ment to say that i am a retired 30 yrs diesel engineer in mining and marine motors are bigger but the complaints are the same just cheaper i always use nulon treatments and good filters and also i ment 800,000ks before rebuild Pat.
FollowupID:
643045
Follow Up By: fisho64 - Wednesday, Jul 22, 2009 at 20:56
Wednesday, Jul 22, 2009 at 20:56
hi poppypat, I too am a marine engineer/diesel fitter.
Why would you say it is the injection system before looking at other more likely causes such as broken rings, valve guides etc?
Sorry but I cant for the life of me see how pump calibration could be first in line to cause sudden oil use??
FollowupID:
643051
Follow Up By: phil300 - Wednesday, Jul 22, 2009 at 21:45
Wednesday, Jul 22, 2009 at 21:45
HIGHJACKER.
Question for marine engineers how many hours should you expect to get from 120hp ford lees.
How much to rebuild aprox.
Thanks Guys.
FollowupID:
643068
Follow Up By: fisho64 - Wednesday, Jul 22, 2009 at 23:14
Wednesday, Jul 22, 2009 at 23:14
absolutely no idea how much to rebuild, assuming parts are still available?? Marine engineers (shipboard engineers) generally dont pay these bills!
Hours-how long is a piece of string?? The variables are so great that only a generalisation could be given.
While I have never even seen a Ford Lees, I know there were a lot of them around. Most of these older low powered diesels have a pretty good lifespan.
Id say between 15000 and 30000 hours. Corrosion is probably as bigger danger to them in a smaller vessel.
We have 2 GM8-71 generators that have just been rebuilt for the second time at 82000 hours. They still burn 1-2 litres of oil a day after rebuild (both).
FollowupID:
643092
Follow Up By: phil300 - Thursday, Jul 23, 2009 at 13:02
Thursday, Jul 23, 2009 at 13:02
Thanks Fisho64
I have been looking at a floating caravan a 49ft 30 years old with twin
ford lees with clocks showing 3600 hours.
Thanks again.
Phil
FollowupID:
643150
Follow Up By: fisho64 - Thursday, Jul 23, 2009 at 20:36
Thursday, Jul 23, 2009 at 20:36
check and see what they look like on the outside, if the hours are genuine have a look at the oils, give them a run and see if they start easily, run smooth and get to temp without overheating under load. Make them work a bit and
check the header tanks for bubbles while running. Remove tappet cover plug (oil filler) while running and look for excessive blowby especially under load.
Im assuming they are freshwater cooled.
If they have direct saltwater cooling with no heat exchanger you will want to look VERY closely at the engines as chances are the engine blocks etc will be in a bad way even though they run ok.
FollowupID:
643223
Reply By: Member - Johny boy (NSW) - Wednesday, Jul 22, 2009 at 20:29
Wednesday, Jul 22, 2009 at 20:29
Hi again Smudger,
If you are in SYD I can recommend J.C .diesel in Narellan (02)46461770 they sorted my L/C out and it has run good since ,I'm sure that there are a heap of others that can be recommended as
well but if I was you just get someone to
check it out ,best prevention is early detection .
AnswerID:
375727
Reply By: Flywest - Wednesday, Jul 22, 2009 at 21:03
Wednesday, Jul 22, 2009 at 21:03
Missing calcium for the 80 series.
The new oil formulations are replacing calcium at 3500 ppm (the min required for 80 series) with moly - and sadly the 80 series operate at a temp above the thermal ceiling for moly.
You need to google what the Virgin oil analysis are for any brand of oil you plan to use, and if they are below 3500 calcium - try something else.
You will be hard pressed to find any that work.
The old oils with 3500 plus PPM calcium don't do so
well on newer catalytic converter fitted vehicles - hence why the oils are being reformulated.
There are articles on the net about it - I'll try n find a few links!
Cheers
AnswerID:
375736
Reply By: Wherehegon - Wednesday, Jul 22, 2009 at 21:15
Wednesday, Jul 22, 2009 at 21:15
Hi there Smudger, Even running a super cheap thin no name brand diesel oil in the 80 you wouldnt use that much oil. My old prado went through a stage where it was blowing smoke on start up and then burning some as
well. I asked my mate who use to work for Toyota and he said its possible the oil rings have spun them selves around and the openings of the the oil and compression rings have lined up. It did it for about 3 months then all of a sudden stoped and didnt do it again for 12 months and was still ok when I sold it BUT the oil it used was virtually not detectable by the oil dipstick, maybe a couple of mill.. While Im not a mechanic it doesnt sound good for you. Regards Steve
AnswerID:
375738