Confused about Solar.... Sort of.

Submitted: Monday, Jul 27, 2009 at 15:21
ThreadID: 71020 Views:4713 Replies:4 FollowUps:4
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At the moment I have a Redarc Isolator dual battery set up in the Defender and from the dual battery I have a box containing various sockets and fuses to power my equipment.

A lead also runs out to the back of the truck terminated with an Anderson plug that charges the battery in the camper when I am driving.

I have just purchased a 2 x 60 watt folding solar panel system with regulator.
When camping the idea is to plug Anderson lead from Solar regulator to rear of truck to charge up Aux battery in Truck that is powering the fridge

I could also charge up the battery in the trailer using this arrangement.
I could even charge the two together, although they are different makes of battery.

I'm happy with this arrangement and understand that this is how these folding panels work that have a four pin simple solar regulator.


Everything was clear then I read about upmarket regulators such as the Steca PR1515 where the load is run directly from off the regulator.

The bit I'm confused about is that if I were to replace the regulator with say a Steca where all the loads run from the Regulator this would mean I couldn't run the fridge directly from my accessory box connected to the positive of the Aux battery in the truck?

cheers Eric
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Reply By: Member - Fred B (NT) - Monday, Jul 27, 2009 at 16:33

Monday, Jul 27, 2009 at 16:33
Eric, took several reads of the thread, but I got it. Only my opinion of course, but my advice would to be to keep it simple and just use what you have. Charge one battery at a time and providing your solar panel/regulator is fused (to prevent overloading) you could even charge the aux battery while running the fridge. Wouldn't bother with the extra expense of another regulator and more hassles.
regards,
Fred B
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Reply By: Mandrake - Monday, Jul 27, 2009 at 18:37

Monday, Jul 27, 2009 at 18:37
Also remember if you use the Regulator to run a load you are restricted to the amount of load that regulator can handle -

As I found out when trying to run an Aircompressor through a 10 amp Regulator ..
Couldn't figure out why the damn thing kept cutting out after 3 seconds !!

Keep it simple - your 2 X 60 w will push out 6 Amps which should cover what the fridge is using up during the sunny time ..

KISS principle is best !

Rgds

Steve


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Follow Up By: Pomgonewalkabout - Monday, Jul 27, 2009 at 19:08

Monday, Jul 27, 2009 at 19:08
Yes Kiss approach is best.
Thanks for the info
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Reply By: Maîneÿ . . .- Tuesday, Jul 28, 2009 at 10:51

Tuesday, Jul 28, 2009 at 10:51
Eric,
Yes, I agree with the KISS principal too

My Steca PR1515 does *NOT* run my fridge or Inverter, it does run (almost) everything else, so I don't look at, or use the SOC information, because it does not include the current drawn by the fridge which runs direct from the AGM's via a ceramic fuse.

The Steca PR1515 does show very clearly what Amps are produced at the Solar system, what is going into the batteries via the Solar system and the general performance of the Solar system.

A Steca PR1515 will safely run all accessories while they are drawing <15 Amps total ( PR3030 for 30 Amps etc. ) and there's no good reason not to run everything through it.

The Solar regulator, all brands/models have to be fitted/wired up adjacent to the Auxiliary battery system they are charging, your "accessory box connected to the positive of the Aux battery in the truck" can then be run from the Steca instead of direct connection to the battery in the truck, it has the advantage of battery disconnect at low battery voltage too and of course re-connection when battery is recharged by the Solar system. The Solar system is charging the battery and also running the appliances at the same time when power is available from the sun.
I also found you post a tad confusing, so I hope this reply is relevant :)

Maîneÿ . . .
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Follow Up By: Nomadic Navara - Tuesday, Jul 28, 2009 at 21:16

Tuesday, Jul 28, 2009 at 21:16
In an installation where the operator is not going to use the SOC (state of charge) information there is no way I would install a Steca or similar regulators. There are better ones like the Morningstar ProStar. These have current metering for the panel and load together with battery voltage. The Steca style regulators were designed for positive earth installations and make the negative side of the wiring more complicated than that with regulators designed to be used in negative earth situations.

PeterD
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Follow Up By: Maîneÿ . . .- Tuesday, Jul 28, 2009 at 22:43

Tuesday, Jul 28, 2009 at 22:43
Only as complicated as the picture shows, insert the 'Neg' and 'Pos' cables where indicated by the little diagrams and the word so there is no mistake, just so simple you can't make a mistake - unless your blind.
There's nothing the owner needs to do once the Regulator has the 6 cables connected, as it's then all done automatically, whether it's neg or pos earth is not relevant, my picture shows (-) earth installation, the only cables are those you can see here.

A big drawback with the Morningstar ProStar is it must be set-up on a wall (vertical) it can't be laid down (horizontal)

The ProStar screen is much smaller and is more difficult to read at a distance, (when compared to the Steca) I mean who wants to get up close and personal each time just to read the much smaller ProStar screen, the Steca LCD screen can be read very clearly at 2 Mtrs.

The ProStar is protected against all faults EXCEPT a reversed battery connection together with a polarized or short circuited load.
The ProStar connector terminals will only accept a maximum wire size of AWG #6 /16 mm2 multistrand cable, whereby with the Steca you can use much thicker 22 mm2 multistrand cable.

Both regulators have a Boost charge of ~14.4 Volts, but the German made Steca Regulator also has the increased benefit of an automatic *equalization charge* of 14.7 Volts too.

Yes, obviously only valid reasons for me not to use the smaller ProStar reg.

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Reply By: Von Helga - Wednesday, Jul 29, 2009 at 09:36

Wednesday, Jul 29, 2009 at 09:36
Pomgonewalkabout

Because you want to maximise the amount of current being produced by your solar cell I connect my folding cells direct to the dual battery in the truck via regulator and clips, this prevents the loss in pushing that current through the wiring from the rear to the front of the car. The same can occur with the camper and its battery if you ever choose to leave the fridge from your car in the camper. You could also connect the car/cell/camper all in one circuit as well via your anderson plug.
Trevor
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Follow Up By: Maîneÿ . . .- Wednesday, Jul 29, 2009 at 11:39

Wednesday, Jul 29, 2009 at 11:39
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