12 volt socket for Waeco

Submitted: Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 10:24
ThreadID: 71225 Views:5918 Replies:7 FollowUps:22
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I have a 80lt Waeco fridge freezer connected to a cigarette lighter type socket in the cargo bay.

This keeps shaking loose so I have been holding it in place with rubber bands for the last couple of years.

It obviously needs a better arrangement. Any suggestions on what type of sockets I can use.
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Reply By: Rut Tearer - Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 11:13

Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 11:13
Check these plugs out. You need to make some changes, speak to Derek and he will help you. He is an Auto AElec and Fridge guy

http://www.sidewinder.com.au/page26.html

AnswerID: 377623

Follow Up By: Maîneÿ . . .- Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 11:37

Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 11:37
RT,
You suggest "He is an Auto AElec and Fridge guy" :)

You probably meant he *sells* Auto elect and fridge stuff
I was not aware Derek's an auto lecy or fridgey ?

Maîneÿ . . .
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Follow Up By: Krakka - Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 11:41

Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 11:41
Looks like spellcheck is not working, haha

Krakka
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Follow Up By: Member - Ed. C. (QLD) - Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 11:43

Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 11:43
His ebay profile says "Automotive Engineer"......................

;-))

Confucius say.....
"He who lie underneath automobile with tool in hand,
....Not necessarily mechanic!!"

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Follow Up By: Maîneÿ . . .- Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 11:47

Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 11:47
Yes,
so your suggesting an "Automotive Engineer" is also qualified Auto Electrician and Fridge mechanic too?

Maîneÿ . . .
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Follow Up By: Member - Ed. C. (QLD) - Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 11:49

Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 11:49
No, not suggesting that at all...............

;-))

Confucius say.....
"He who lie underneath automobile with tool in hand,
....Not necessarily mechanic!!"

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Follow Up By: Maîneÿ . . .- Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 11:54

Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 11:54
So what do you mean when you say: "He is an Auto AElec and Fridge guy" ??

Maîneÿ . . .

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Follow Up By: Member - Ed. C. (QLD) - Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 11:56

Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 11:56
Errrm, wasn't me that said that..

;-))

Confucius say.....
"He who lie underneath automobile with tool in hand,
....Not necessarily mechanic!!"

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Follow Up By: Maîneÿ . . .- Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 12:08

Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 12:08
Ed,
sorry my mistake
I was busy :)

I'm sure 'RT' will soon clarify the facts ?

Maîneÿ . . .
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Reply By: Member - Porl - Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 11:16

Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 11:16
Get it off the factory socket. My 30L waeco burnt out my Prado's cigarette socket within 3 months.
AnswerID: 377624

Follow Up By: bks - Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 11:23

Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 11:23
I have rewired the Prado sockeet with heavier cable and replaced the factory socket with a heavy duty one. I have tried several diffent cigarette type sockets and they all are too loose.
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Follow Up By: Maîneÿ . . .- Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 11:43

Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 11:43
bks,
you say: "have tried several diffent cigarette type sockets and they all are too loose"

Simple answer is to change the socket to one that won't be "too loose"

Hint: Anderson Plug :)

Maîneÿ . . .
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Follow Up By: bks - Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 13:08

Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 13:08
So is there any particular difficulty replacing the cigarette type coupling with an Anderson plug?
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Follow Up By: Member - Porl - Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 13:24

Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 13:24
I wouldn't use the same wiring, it wasn't the plug that was the problem with mine when I had it, the wire was too small for continous current with fridge at max setting. It's not a huge job to go through the vehicle of the cabin or under along the chassis rail (inside a protective duct) with upgraded wire, 6mm core here they say (excluding the plastic shroud), though there's the chances of hook ups with the latter system.
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Follow Up By: Maîneÿ . . .- Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 16:01

Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 16:01
bks,
Run an independent (fused) cable direct from the Aux battery to the fridge, with an Anderson plug as the terminating device.
Remove the cigy lighter plug from the fridge cable and attach a matching Anderson plug.

If you use 'thicker' cable you can then also fit a 'junction box' so you can run other items from the same power cable from the Aux battery.Image Could Not Be FoundMaîneÿ . . .
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Follow Up By: Member - Brenton W (SA) - Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 16:20

Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 16:20
I agree dont use the factory socket its not ment to be used for high current purpose. When i had an anderson plug fitted to my prado we put another wire across from it and put a new hella socket in where the jack is i open ti up a bit and plug the fridge in there never been a problem since.

Brenton
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FollowupID: 645060

Reply By: Gronk - Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 13:11

Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 13:11
I have a 60ltr Waeco and installed a Narva socket in the rear of my 4x4 and rewired the Waeco lead with 6mm2....in line fuse... and a Jaycar plug and haven't had any issues with it falling out..
AnswerID: 377641

Reply By: olcoolone - Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 13:16

Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 13:16
It never seems to amaze me, people keep on complaining about this problem and nobody fixes it.

I don't understand why some people think they have to use a cigarette plug or some form of connector when there is a perfectly good plug and socket at the end of the factory cable and the fridge.

When we install fridges in 4x4's (we do it for a living) we cut of the cigarette plug and hard wire the remaining power cable going to the fridge to 6mm sheathed twin core straight to the battery via a fuse.

When not in use you can hide the power cable under the carpet or in wagons in the storage pockets.

Doing it this way solves all the problems of bad connections, plugs getting damaged or knocked out.

If you need to use the fridge in another vehicle spend $20.00 and buy a replacement power cable complete with cigarette plug.


Simple hey!



AnswerID: 377642

Follow Up By: bks - Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 13:38

Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 13:38
Sometimes the solution is so obvious you dont see it.

Thanks good idea expecially as I already have a spare cable
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Follow Up By: olcoolone - Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 15:25

Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 15:25
Thats OK glade I can help.

I'm sure someone with more knowledge then me will argue why it's better to do it another way or use an Anderson plug.

Thats life and I just sit back and laugh!

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Follow Up By: Maîneÿ . . .- Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 16:15

Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 16:15
I'm not going to 'argue' with you..

I'm asking why you say: "there is a perfectly good plug and socket at the end of the factory cable and the fridge" ... "we cut OFF the cigarette plug and hard wire the remaining power cable going to the fridge"

If it's "a perfectly good plug and socket at the end of the factory cable" why do you cut it off ?

Maîneÿ . . .
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FollowupID: 645058

Follow Up By: bks - Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 16:33

Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 16:33
Ok I have hard wired it. But just checking that on the Waeco cable the side with the 2 ridges is negative.

I read else were on the forum that this was the case but would like to check before I plug it in.
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Follow Up By: Member - Allan B (QLD) - Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 17:17

Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 17:17
Yes, for the Waeco, the conductor with the ridges on the PVC is NEGATIVE .

But perhaps someone else would care to confirm that.

Cheers
Allan

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Follow Up By: olcoolone - Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 18:43

Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 18:43
Mainey, the power cable has two ends, one end is a cigarette / merit style plug and on the other end there is a rectangle two pin plug that plugs directly into the fridge.

The two pin plug and socket is a lot more robust then the cigarette / merit plug and socket and is harder to damage or dislodge.

What we do and suggest to our customers is cut the cigarette / merit plug off and hard wire the rest of the cable (with rectangle two pin plug) to 6mm twin core sheathed cable direct to the battery via a fuse, this eliminating the problem people have with the cigarette / merit plug and socket.

If people want to remove the fridge they can disconnect it from the rectangle two pin plug on the fridge.



The reason that we recommend using 6mm twin core sheathed cable direct to the battery is for two reasons,

1) Unknown power feed pick up point and quality in factory wiring.

2) 6mm cable is overkill for most people but comparing the costs against 5mm cable there is less then $10.00 in it over 6 meters ensuring the cable has plenty of capacity in reserve.


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Follow Up By: Maîneÿ . . .- Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 20:29

Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 20:29
Thanks for clearing that up

Maîneÿ . . .
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Reply By:- Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 14:18

Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 14:18
If the original wire to the cigarette lighter is not damaged in any way, leave this wire alone - unless you want to throw money out the window!

Why?
Because this wire is rated at least 10A if not more (2.5 mm square is good for 20A).

I'm NOT a fridgy, but can tell you frank and free that your portable fridge will draw less current than that.

As you've already discovered, the problem is definitely inside your cigarette lighter plug which has too high of a contact resistance.
F.e. if that resistance was 1 Ohm and the current through the plug was 10A, you'd certainly going to melt the wire's insulation off next to the plug (100W of heat generated inside plug). Heat increases the contact resistance which in turn creates even more heat - a classical runaway effect or viscious circle.
Any plug relies on the contact heat to be conducted away. Even Anderson plugs are rated according to the wire gauge they're crimped to.

So get a 50A rated Anderson style plug (they probably have the lowest contact resistance of them all), and make sure you double up the wire going into the cable well. If it's only a 2.5 mm square wire, you can even try to treble or quadruple the wire inside the wells. Use soft solder which creates an even better heat transfer between plug and wire. This 'thick' wire doesn't have to be very long, only 200, 300 mm or so after which you can drop down to the normal 2.5 mm square for the rest of the wire run.

Hope this makes sense.
Best, mr.batteryvalue
AnswerID: 377647

Follow Up By: That Troopy Bloke (SA) - Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 19:17

Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 19:17
Don't suppose you would get any voltage drop with that 'fat' 2.5mm square wire?

Cheers
Glenn
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Reply By: ABR - SIDEWINDER - Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 14:24

Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 14:24
Hi bks

1st solution is to remove the tip from the Waeco plug. This converts it to a hella style plug and you can then plug it into a hella socket. These click together and work quite well.

2nd solution is converting to Anderson plugs. This would require some in-line fusing as you will be cutting the fused plug off.

3rd solution is dedicated Waeco cables hardwired to the vehicles. This too will require some in-line fusing.







Regards

Derek from ABR
AnswerID: 377648

Reply By: RV Powerstream P/L - Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 17:26

Wednesday, Aug 05, 2009 at 17:26
The better solution is to use Anderson Power Poles they come in 15-30-45A.
The housing is the same for all amp sizes and the 30A makes a good connection .

You can get a chassis mount unit that can allow two sets of 30A connections from one supply so two appliances can be connected.

They are not as bulky as 50A Anderson Plugs.
Ian

AnswerID: 377663

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