Changing leaf springs -trailer

If you apply 'Penetrene' for a day first they come out easier - a lot easier.

David

It's the knurl (spline-lookin' thingy) on the pins which makes 'em difficult to knock out.. designed to be that way so they don't rotate and wear big holes in the hangers..
I use a _heavy duty_ G-clamp w/- an over-sized socket over the head of the bolt/pin (w/- nut screwed on level with the end of the pin), and they'll usually come out just by screwin'up the clamp.. sometimes need a gentle tap w/- a 'persuader'...

If your springs have nylon bushes, then these should not be greased.. grease attracts dust and accelerate the wear on the pins & bushes...

If you do decide to fit greasable pins (and grease 'em), then you'll need to be greasin' em every bl@@dy day if ya take it off road.. otherwise, like I said, dust will get in there & create a grinding paste, and you'll be replacin' em again within 12 months...

Last time I did mine I used some Molybond (122L) Dry Film Lubticant on the pins/bushes.. remains to be seen how this will hold up in the longer term...

;-))

You should always keep a peice of brass rod in your breakdown kit also known as a brass drift long enough to hold and hit like a chisel and about 2cm in diameter.
This is also important for knocking in new wheel bearing cups without damaging them.

Brass is soft and won"t deform steel.

Hope this helps.

Thanks everyone for your replies, I have learnt more stuff from this great site.


Cheers


Mark