More steel advice.
Submitted: Wednesday, Aug 19, 2009 at 00:59
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Flywest
Is there any way to mill a slot in steel for the home handyman - using say a drill?
With the steel bumper bar & dual wheel carrier, we are making, we have room to insert LED strips into a slot milled into the bar (red for brakes on the back and
orange for indicators on the sides).
I've only ever seen a slot milled with an indexed metal lathe, something which we don't possess.
I do have a circular saw - could I fit a friction cutting disc, and create a parallel template/jig with two sides to guide the saw base plate to run the saw along, and set the depth with the blade depth setting and a start / stop piece at each end, just to get a straight slot wide enough & deep enough for inserting LED strips?
Anyone?
Cheers.
Reply By: Mick15 - Wednesday, Aug 19, 2009 at 05:36
Wednesday, Aug 19, 2009 at 05:36
you won't be able to do it with a drill alone, however, the way i'd go about it is to work out where you wan't the slot, and use the drill to put a hole at each end (drill size same as required slot thickness e.g. 10mm drill for 10mm slot), then just use a 4" grinder with a 1mm cutting wheel to connect the holes, it will make the sides of the slot - 2 cuts per slot
Go slowly, and mark everything out
well before you start, scribe the lines and punch the holes
well.
If the slot is a lot smaller than the grinder disc can cut, like 3" or less, drill the holes the same and use a decent jigsaw to join the holes - go slow and use cutting fluid and allow a bit of metal to clean up with a file.
AnswerID:
379539
Follow Up By: Member - Brenton W (SA) - Wednesday, Aug 19, 2009 at 18:49
Wednesday, Aug 19, 2009 at 18:49
I have a tool called super tool, i bought at a AG show years ago fits into a drill and has a lathe bit in the bottom wich you can ajust to any width you want up to 50 mm i think, it wil mill a perfect flat depth to anything you want. but not sure where you would buy one, other than a field day show.
FollowupID:
646965
Follow Up By: Member - Johny boy (NSW) - Wednesday, Aug 19, 2009 at 19:11
Wednesday, Aug 19, 2009 at 19:11
Just follow Mick 15s advice as that was what I was thinking as
well and I have done ok before, doing it that way .
Cheers.
FollowupID:
646966
Reply By: olcoolone - Wednesday, Aug 19, 2009 at 08:33
Wednesday, Aug 19, 2009 at 08:33
Take it someone who can do it properly, last thing you want is crooked lines and rough cut outs.
We use a Plasma Cutter to do stuff like that.
AnswerID:
379548
Reply By: Member - Kiwi Kia - Wednesday, Aug 19, 2009 at 09:22
Wednesday, Aug 19, 2009 at 09:22
Back in the days of steam radio ..... we used to drill lots of small holes close together just inside the cut line. Then clamp a thick bit of steel just below the line on both the inner and outer sides. Now take a good cold chisel and whack it against the cut line and you will be surprised how easy it is to sheer the steel off with the cold chisel. Finnish with a file - not hard at all. Try a small bit of steel in a vice to get the hang of it, use the top of the vice as the sheer guide. Up to 6mm no trouble at all
KK.
AnswerID:
379553
Reply By: Member -Signman - Wednesday, Aug 19, 2009 at 10:49
Wednesday, Aug 19, 2009 at 10:49
Howz about a 4" angle grinder- just a cheapie from Bunnings.
Cut the hole a 'pubic hair' undersize and claen it up with a file..!!
AnswerID:
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Reply By: Hairy (NT) - Wednesday, Aug 19, 2009 at 17:49
Wednesday, Aug 19, 2009 at 17:49
Gday,
What size slot?
What thickness material?
AnswerID:
379591
Follow Up By: Hairy (NT) - Wednesday, Aug 19, 2009 at 17:53
Wednesday, Aug 19, 2009 at 17:53
Forgot to say....be carefull fitting blades to
tools not designed for them! Check the speed of the blade against the speed of the machine.
FollowupID:
646957
Reply By: Flywest - Thursday, Aug 20, 2009 at 01:12
Thursday, Aug 20, 2009 at 01:12
OK. all good advice..
The slots I wanted to mill are into 7 mm thick mild steel.
I wanted them to be blind slots i.e. not thru the metal all the way, say 4 or 5 mm deep is all so using a jigsaw is out.
I could use the 4 inch angle grinder and 1 mm cutting disc for the long cuts and the drill bit for the ends... thinking the slot will need to be about 5 mm wide or whatever width the LED strips are when they arrive.
How does one get rid of the metal left in the middle once you have your two parallel cuts either side of the slot?...more grind8ing with a disc?...say a wider cutting disc?....
I want to insert the LED strips "flush" into the bar and maybe even epoxy over them flush, to seal them in against the weather.
The milling attachment for a drill sounds neat - I'm not bad at making jigs for
tools to follow... Will search the net a bit and see what I can find.
Thanks everyone for the ideas - I'll see what I can come up with.
Still making progress - got some welding and grinding done today / tonight until the Mig Gas ran out.
Managed to cut one of the swing arms down 70mm and move it to the left to make the wheel not lap past the centre.
Will have a go tomorrow at duplicating/ mirroring the arm for the RH carrier, bye bending up some 50 mm pipe to the same angles (reversed).
Still a lot of hours left in this build but it is starting to actually "look" engineered specifically for the job as we work on beautifying the basic unit.
Will try n get more pics uploaded and another description thread posted soon as I can.
Cheers
Cheers
AnswerID:
379637
Follow Up By: Hairy (NT) - Thursday, Aug 20, 2009 at 16:10
Thursday, Aug 20, 2009 at 16:10
Gday,
Just a thought???
What if you slotted the holes by drilling and oxy cutting or grinding as suggested and than tack a plate on the back to blank it off?
FollowupID:
647102
Reply By: Mick15 - Saturday, Aug 22, 2009 at 21:55
Saturday, Aug 22, 2009 at 21:55
Yea short of putting the bar in a mill and running a slot drill along it, its gonna be hard to do without going all the way through, even an attachment for a drill would need to be clamped to the bar and use a guide as theres no way you'd be able to make it straight by hand.
Either do what the guy above says and tack a plate behind or just don't make stots and put the lights on the bar without slots, then bend up a surround out of 20x4 flat or something and weld it on to protect the lights.
AnswerID:
380082