3 way fridge and computer fan?

A fridges basic principal is as a heat exchanger - the heat you feel around the outside condensers is the heat being drawn out of the inside of the fridge thus lowering inside temp. It's a must that condenser vanes (thin radiator like strips) be kept free of dust and have max ait flow across them to give off the heat. Electric compressor fridge motors will stew in their own heat, run continuously and eventually burn out if they can't get rid of the heat. It's amazing how well fridges work in cold weather, it's obviously much harder for them in summer when you really need it.
Hot air rises, so if you can set up a fan under the vanes & make sure the fan has air to draw on it will help drive off the heat.
I think your Chescold is a three way unit. They are good on the gas and 240v but must be dead level to operate properly, therfore no good on 12v while travelling.
The fan will probably be 12v only and don't know that it will be much good. I've got a Chescold & its great for leaving in the camp on gas, have to turn it off overnight so things don't freeze up.
If/when I ever get a compressor type I'd rig up an air hose from outside or from air con to blow over the motor while travelling and have a fan as well to help when on battery/solar/gen power.

Cocka - you are spot on re the need to be level BUT my Chescold 3 way runs like a beauty while mobile on 12 volts ! Must be that moving around off-level is ok (motion may be good for the fluid etc.) while level is very important while static.
Cobes - I have put a 12 volt 100mm fan (from Jaycar) in the back of my 3 way - made a small bracket - down on the floor in the corner opposite the chimney. Runs air up at 45 degrees across the condensing tubes. I figure some air movement is better than none, and as I say, it has always been a good runner - might be even better now. We always travel dirt with the dash fan on high too - that may have ben a contributor up till now).Get me outa these suburbs !

Chris
Try a search 'here' on '3way' and/or 'Sadec'.
My 3 way is a Sadec 20 yo, and I have fitted a 12 v PC fan - I think it is smaller than 120mm ? Check the polarity as I think they only run in one direction ? - it's been a while since I added mine. I believe they draw very little power - should be written on the box?
I made a small bracket and 'clamped' the fan to the heat exchanger facing up at 45*. Remember to try and give the rear of the frig some space for air circulation - others have suggested a 'fresh air' supply which would help. Of course it needs to be kept out of any draft when on gas.
I have covered the outside of the frig with rubber backed self adhesive foil from Clark Rubber and run a 'heavy' wire direct from the battery. With these 3 mods the inside element now frosts up on 12v.
I also have a 'Projecta' cut out unit (from Kmart $20) that I plug in line when I leave the car for more than a few minutes - cuts power off at 11.6v (no flat battery!). Also run the car on a deep cycle battery - only recommended for smaller motors as they don't have as much cranking power!!
NB The frig only needs to be level while on gas - otherwise the flames heat doesn't go straight up the 'chimney'. On 12/240 the power just heats an element so not being level will not effect the temp.
Good luck

Do Not Repeat Do Not run it off level except when moving....
not only will it not work, you will actually destroy your frig! Get a good bubble level.
It takes a while, but is cumulative. The solution inside overheats (due lack of circulation) then crystalises -causing blockage- and hey presto! Your frig becomes nothing but a good esky.
This problem is NOT covered under warranty and is one reason to be very carefull when buying secondhand. A friends son borrowed his dads Chescold (nearly new) and destroyed it in one long weekend by running it off level.

Check the archives under fridges and chescold,,,you will be amazed at the performance you can get from a fully set up 3way,,,hella plugs are a definite improvement over the standard cig plug ,but for best solid removeable connection " Brittax " is the go for upto 20amps,, any more than that go for anderson plugs.

Chris

For what its worth, you want the fan setup to draw air through the condenser, set it up in front of the condenser and exhaust it out. That way your getting rid of the warm air inside the unit and creating a vector draught through the unit and across the fins of the condenser. Use a brushless fan around 0.40 amps, your sizing is about right, good luck.