Usless jumper cable

Submitted: Thursday, Oct 01, 2009 at 14:08

ThreadID: 72665 Views:4247 Replies:9 FollowUps:8

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Member - Troll 81 (QLD)

Gday all,

I have a pretty useless set of jumper leads that I just had to use to start the wife’s outback and it took a good 10 min to get it going….I think they are only rated at 200amps and from what I saw today only good enough to start a lawnmower first go.

Am I better off making my own?

Can anyone recommend a good set of leads?

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Reply By: Member - Phantom (WA) - Thursday, Oct 01, 2009 at 14:36

Thursday, Oct 01, 2009 at 14:36

Hi Troll,
I went through the same dilemma a few years ago and ended up finding a fantastic set at Coventrys. I don't know the rating but they are orange and the cable is about as thick as your thumb.
They were about $120.00 back then.

Steve

AnswerID: 385323

Reply By: Maîneÿ . . .- Thursday, Oct 01, 2009 at 14:41

Thursday, Oct 01, 2009 at 14:41

I don't think there's anything wrong with 200 Amp rated cable as jumper leads for a Diesel engine or light commercial use, the big problem is the battery connections used at the ends of the cables.

I use a cable with 15 Amp rated clamps as a mini jumper cable from my DC's to the Starter, it works for me, but the Starter is never really flat, just down a bit.

Maîneÿ . . .

AnswerID: 385324

Follow Up By: Maîneÿ . . .- Thursday, Oct 01, 2009 at 16:14

Thursday, Oct 01, 2009 at 16:14

This mini jumper cable is used to connect the DC's direct to the Starter battery, the clamps are only rated at ~15 Amps and they have not melted yet.Image Could Not Be FoundMaîneÿ . . .

FollowupID: 653031

Reply By: Member -Signman - Thursday, Oct 01, 2009 at 14:42

Thursday, Oct 01, 2009 at 14:42

I used a bit of elec welding cable..with some hefty 'crocodile' clamps on the ends. Very flexible and can handle the current !!

AnswerID: 385326

Follow Up By: Member - Duncs - Thursday, Oct 01, 2009 at 15:46

Thursday, Oct 01, 2009 at 15:46

That is the way to go. At least it worked for me.

The other oprtion is the kind of cable that connects a winch to the battery. You should be able to buy it at a decent electrical wholesaler.

Duncs

FollowupID: 653028

Follow Up By: Member - Scott M (NSW) - Thursday, Oct 01, 2009 at 18:39

Thursday, Oct 01, 2009 at 18:39

Similar, I had a a crook battery on Cooktown - couldn't jump from my Dads 80 series .... even though I'd bought 'heavy duty' leads.. finally pulled the battery out and trucked it around to the garage and bought a new one at great expense..

The folks at the battery place said most of the commercial leads are really designed for light cars etc. ... the ones they use in their service vehicles are hand made out of welding cable ... only thing that works on all vehicles...

FollowupID: 653044

Reply By: Ozboc - Thursday, Oct 01, 2009 at 15:53

Thursday, Oct 01, 2009 at 15:53

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AnswerID: 385330

Reply By: Member - Graham H (QLD) - Thursday, Oct 01, 2009 at 16:18

Thursday, Oct 01, 2009 at 16:18

Go to a scrap metal place an buy 2 5metre lengths of welding cable
The go to BOC and buy two good Alligator clips like used in welding.

Lastly to Repco or Snooper creep and get one of the Antispike boxes that attach by a screw through each cable.

If you have Big soldering Iron Solder them to the clamps and they will be the best leads for the price anywhere./

I did that 10 years ago and they are still good.

Cost me about $40.

They are long enough to pull up beside a car and go right across both of them.

Used to use them when I was Taxi driving for jump starting idiots cars who left lights on when out at night

Paid for themselves in two weeks at $15 a pop LOL

AnswerID: 385331

Follow Up By: Member - Troll 81 (QLD) - Thursday, Oct 01, 2009 at 16:21

Thursday, Oct 01, 2009 at 16:21

Sounds like the go

FollowupID: 653033

Reply By: Member - Tony & Julie (FNQ) - Thursday, Oct 01, 2009 at 16:32

Thursday, Oct 01, 2009 at 16:32

On the cheaper cables I get out the solder and solder the cable to the clamp, usually fixes the problem straight away, they always have a bad connection with the crimp on the clamp. Cheers Tony

AnswerID: 385336

Reply By: mazcan barry - Thursday, Oct 01, 2009 at 16:36

Thursday, Oct 01, 2009 at 16:36

hi troll 81
pull the insulation back off the handles and have a look at the way the cable is connected i think you will find they are just lightly crimped or not at all
200amp cables are big enough for the outback but only if the connections are a1
i soldered mine and had no further problems

AnswerID: 385338

Reply By: howesy - Thursday, Oct 01, 2009 at 16:48

Thursday, Oct 01, 2009 at 16:48

Supa cheap have calibre branded 750amp leads that are excellent. Never had them hesitate once even trying to start batteries with a dead cell they go first kick. They usually have em around $60

AnswerID: 385340

Reply By: obee1212 - Thursday, Oct 01, 2009 at 16:55

Thursday, Oct 01, 2009 at 16:55

Before you connect up, get the donor engine turning over so it is supplying 13.8 volts. Make the connection and wait a minute or two while the flat battery is brought up a bit and stops being a drain on your efforts. If the jumper leads really are bad then you can wait for as long as it takes to give every thing a chance.

If the flat battery is charged up a bit there wont be so much current coming down the jumpers when you crank the problem engine.

and remember to connect the negative earth terminals first and remember that batteries give off hydrogen gas and can cause a fire.

Owen

AnswerID: 385341

Follow Up By: Member - Toyocrusa (NSW) - Thursday, Oct 01, 2009 at 20:22

Thursday, Oct 01, 2009 at 20:22

Hi Owen.I was always taught to connect the positive terminals first and disconnect them last. Got me wondering now. Bob.

FollowupID: 653052

Follow Up By: obee1212 - Thursday, Oct 01, 2009 at 20:51

Thursday, Oct 01, 2009 at 20:51

hi bob.

I think you were taught right. the pos lead cant do any damage if it is secured first.

Now why did I get that wrong?

Humbly yours and many apologies to all concerned.

This reminds me of the accountant who looked into a locked drawer every morning at work and when he retired the other johnnies took the key and had a look. There was a note which said, debits on the left, credits on the right.

Either that or the other way round!

I forget

Owen

FollowupID: 653056

Follow Up By: Member - Allan B (QLD) - Thursday, Oct 01, 2009 at 22:36

Thursday, Oct 01, 2009 at 22:36

The correct procedure for connecting jumper cables is as follows:

1. Connect the + battery posts at each end.
2. Connect the - lead to the donor - battery post.
3. Connect the other end of the - lead to a solid part of the receiving vehicle's earth system AWAY FROM THE BATTERY. eg. onto the engine block.

This ensures that the final connection, which may well produce a spark, is done away from the battery where hydrogen gas may be present. Disconnect in the reverse order. That is, remove the cable from the block first.

The other advantage of connecting the negative last is that if it inadvertently comes into contact with the bodywork of either vehicle there will be no dramatic short-circuit. If the negative cable were connected first and then the loose end of the positive cable came into contact with the bodywork ....... well, you know the result, don't you?