trailer wiring remedy
Submitted: Tuesday, Oct 13, 2009 at 21:08
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oz doc
Hi all, hoping for some suggestions here. I lent our camper trailer to ( they shall remain nameless but I will never ever ever ever ever lend the trailer to anyone ever ever ever again!) and it has come back with a substantially shortened lead to the 7 pin plug (amongst other problems but we wont go into that because its not good for my blood pressure!). When moving it out of the way on the weekend "nobody" managed to step on the plug and rip it off. So what I need to do is join a new length of wiring harness to the existing harness and rewire the plug. I'm after suggestions to make this a neat and tidy job and not an ugly birds nest of joins etc. Is there such thing as a commercial 7 wire joiner? Thanks, doc.
Reply By: Ozboc - Tuesday, Oct 13, 2009 at 21:16
Tuesday, Oct 13, 2009 at 21:16
best bet is to just solder in new piece of wire --- making sure to join wire direct on ( inline ) then you can get a shrink insulation that slides over the whole lot ( after you insulate individual wires - then use a heat gun to schrink the lot --- will look neater than just twisting wires together and electrical taping it ...
AnswerID:
386937
Follow Up By: Fab72 - Wednesday, Oct 14, 2009 at 12:45
Wednesday, Oct 14, 2009 at 12:45
And stagger the joins so you don't end up with a birds nest.
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654588
Reply By: Member - Graham H (QLD) - Tuesday, Oct 13, 2009 at 21:16
Tuesday, Oct 13, 2009 at 21:16
One way to do it is to terminate the ends so that none are together.
Like an inch shorter than each other.
Solder each wire and cover with heatshrink.
Buy a roll of AMALGAMATING TAPE from Dick Smith and wrap it all in that.
AS you apply it keep it stretched andit will form a solid waterproof cover.
Have used it on aerial termintions on my HF and no
water has got in and had to cut it off with a craft knife.
Its always nobody that does it so just dont lend it to NOBODY.
LOL
AnswerID:
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Reply By: Roughasguts - Tuesday, Oct 13, 2009 at 21:16
Tuesday, Oct 13, 2009 at 21:16
Nah mate just find a
junction box and 7 conectors. Or totally re- wire if it's a few years old. You can solder and heat shrink but it's just as much work as a re-wire.
Cheers.
AnswerID:
386939
Follow Up By: oz doc - Tuesday, Oct 13, 2009 at 21:36
Tuesday, Oct 13, 2009 at 21:36
Junction box sounds like a good idea. Yes it is a few years old and the heat from being up north has made some of the wiring brittle. A total rewire is probably what I should do now that you mention it. However, as all the wiring is threaded inside the shassy, it's not a job to be taken lightly. I've only just got it back and want to use it again fairly soon so might put a full rewire in the 'to be done later' basket. Where would I look for a suitable
junction box?thanks, doc.
FollowupID:
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Follow Up By: Dave(NSW) - Wednesday, Oct 14, 2009 at 09:09
Wednesday, Oct 14, 2009 at 09:09
oz doc,
You could run new wiring through some conduit attached to the inside of the chassy.
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Follow Up By: Roughasguts - Wednesday, Oct 14, 2009 at 14:31
Wednesday, Oct 14, 2009 at 14:31
For a cheap effective
water proof
junction box. Go to the wifes colection of Tupperware and grab a small square container with a lid. Then just use 5 or 7 screw on wire conectors there cheap and effective.
You can either screw or sikaflex that to the trailer then put a hole in the bottom or side for the wires to pass through, seal that up and your done!! with a nice easy lid to remove for replacement or inspection of the wires.
If this is for a boat trailer fill the box full of Vaseline to keep the moisture out.
But The thing is with wires on trailers they wick!! and go black! and turn to dust in a few years.
So Inspect the white one, the earth ! that usually goes first (gets brittle and weak) and completely stuffs the lights working properly on trailers.
If you go to a place like Bursons, and buy the 5 or 7 core wire by the metre! it works out way cheaper and better wire than the Super cheap blister bundles.
Cheers
FollowupID:
654596
Reply By: Lex M (Brisbane) - Tuesday, Oct 13, 2009 at 21:21
Tuesday, Oct 13, 2009 at 21:21
Get some of this glue lined heat shrink to cover the joins.
Glue lined heat shrink.
(
http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=WH5641&keywords=heat+shrink&form=KEYWORD)
6 or 8 mm over each wire join and 16 mm over the lot.
neat and waterproof.
AnswerID:
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Follow Up By: Member - Stuart P (WA) - Wednesday, Oct 14, 2009 at 00:22
Wednesday, Oct 14, 2009 at 00:22
heat shrink is adhesive lined
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Follow Up By: Lex M (Brisbane) - Wednesday, Oct 14, 2009 at 00:41
Wednesday, Oct 14, 2009 at 00:41
The common coloured heatshrink sold at tricky dickies or Jaycar o supercreep is not glue lined.
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Follow Up By: Member - Mike DID - Wednesday, Oct 14, 2009 at 11:46
Wednesday, Oct 14, 2009 at 11:46
It's alo called Dual Wall Heatshrink.
An excellent solution for absolute waterproofing.
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654580
Reply By: Member - Murray R (VIC) - Tuesday, Oct 13, 2009 at 21:36
Tuesday, Oct 13, 2009 at 21:36
oz doc
if you tape 3 to 4 meters of 5 core to the plug end of cable and then pull it back down the draw bar from were the draw bar meets the chassis [that is were wiring comes out of draw bar and runs along chassis ] you can then cut the original wiring to a length were you can make the join inside the draw bar. Join the taped on 5 core with crimps or solder then tape and pull back through draw bar. Looks like original and join is out of the weather. hope you can make sense of this.
cheers Murray
ps: you will waste a couple of meters of cable but its cheap
AnswerID:
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Reply By: OREJAP - Tuesday, Oct 13, 2009 at 23:08
Tuesday, Oct 13, 2009 at 23:08
Go to a place like super cheap that sells trailer loom. Completely rewire the trailer that way you know it's all new & done properly. Buy a slab of VB cans for afterwards!! & send your mate the bill for the wiring loom & VB cans. OR Take it to an auto elect have it done professionally and give the bill to that chinese fellow what's is name "som...." the bloke that broke it!! If your mate really appreciates the loan of the trailer he will pay up without any complaints....if he no pay....he Ex mate.
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Follow Up By: oz doc - Tuesday, Oct 13, 2009 at 23:48
Tuesday, Oct 13, 2009 at 23:48
My mates wouldn't have stooped so low. Pity I can't say the same for my immediate family. sigh. doc.
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Reply By: ABR - SIDEWINDER - Tuesday, Oct 13, 2009 at 23:08
Tuesday, Oct 13, 2009 at 23:08
Fit a socket on the trailer just like the car has.
Make a short joiner cable with a male plug each end. (Say 1m long)
Just like our reversing camera uses.
Regards
Derek from ABR
AnswerID:
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Follow Up By: Shaker - Tuesday, Oct 13, 2009 at 23:15
Tuesday, Oct 13, 2009 at 23:15
You just beat me to it!
It's the same way as hire trailers are done.
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Follow Up By: Member - Fred B (NT) - Tuesday, Oct 13, 2009 at 23:42
Tuesday, Oct 13, 2009 at 23:42
You can buy short extensions from supercrap.... eh eh... I mean supercheap.. and just put a plug on the shortened trailer wiring. You can also then remove it when you store your trailer.
regards
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Follow Up By: ChrisE - Wednesday, Oct 14, 2009 at 10:45
Wednesday, Oct 14, 2009 at 10:45
Second vote for mounting another female plug on the trailer, and have a 1m lead with males on each end, then when not in use can be totally removed and doesn't get damaged. Also if it gets damaged in the future, like dragged on the ground, just need to replace the 1m of cable rather than rewiring the trailer each time.
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Reply By: _gmd_pps - Wednesday, Oct 14, 2009 at 11:00
Wednesday, Oct 14, 2009 at 11:00
none of that is useful in my book.
All my trailers, boat, horesefloat, box have a socket at the a-frame and a lead with 2 plugs to connect to the vehicle. Especially useful for the boat trailer, where the lead can be quickly removed before going into the
water. I have 2 leads with different length depending on the trailer/vehicle combination.
So in your case you get a socket and mount it on the aframe or somewhere convenient and safe with the existing cable and then you make yourself a new cable with 2 plugs. Done - neat - practical and solid. Rewiring is much more effort.
Heat shrink and solder will also work fine but you need a little practise to make it neat. Staggered joints are essential for that sort of repair.
good luck
gmd
AnswerID:
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Follow Up By: Maîneÿ . . .- Wednesday, Oct 14, 2009 at 11:56
Wednesday, Oct 14, 2009 at 11:56
This is the method I would recommend you use also, it gives you the practicality of changing connections to suit different vehicles too
Maîneÿ . . .
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Follow Up By: Shaker - Wednesday, Oct 14, 2009 at 12:47
Wednesday, Oct 14, 2009 at 12:47
Isn't that what Derek said to do above ^^^^^^^
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Follow Up By: Maîneÿ . . .- Wednesday, Oct 14, 2009 at 15:32
Wednesday, Oct 14, 2009 at 15:32
Shaker, the two posts have different outcomes
gmd, has elaborated on how to do it specifically and he’s nominated what materials to use too, this is good and valuable information, nothing less etc
No-one is suggesting Derek’s post is incorrect, it is just being more clearly elaborated on
Maîneÿ . . .
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Reply By: oz doc - Wednesday, Oct 14, 2009 at 22:10
Wednesday, Oct 14, 2009 at 22:10
HI all, thanks for the excellent replies. I have decided to mount a female socket onthe A frame as suggested, and make two male to male extensions so the camper can be easily towed behind either of our vehicles(one has round socket the other has flat socket). I have bought several metres of the 7 core wire to eventually rewire the trailer because as two of you have suggested, the wiring is becoming brittle with age and heat.Cheers, doc.
AnswerID:
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Follow Up By: Maîneÿ . . .- Thursday, Oct 15, 2009 at 11:44
Thursday, Oct 15, 2009 at 11:44
"I have decided to mount a female socket on the A frame as suggested, and make two *MALE* to *MALE* extensions"
Not sure how that will work ???
Maîneÿ . . .
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Follow Up By: oz doc - Thursday, Oct 15, 2009 at 16:31
Thursday, Oct 15, 2009 at 16:31
Sorry Mainey, bit of a typo - 'male to female' extension.doc.
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