Battery Replacement in 2005 T/D Sahara
Submitted: Sunday, Oct 18, 2009 at 09:24
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Ziggy100
Hi,
Can anyone suggest best option/s for battery replcements in my Cruiser.
Original batteries have just completely failed after 4 years (Easy) life.
Vehicle comes with two batteries as standard and I wish to upgrade with either two high CCA's or one high CCA and ther a deep cycle battery with modifing engine bay. Vehicle comes with two (Total 1000 CCA's) originally as for really cold climates it apprently requires two for engine cranking according to Toyota.
If I go the Deep Cycle I'll add a battery switching (Require guidance for best and cost effective type) to protect the cranking battery when using deep cycle when
camping for extended periods say 3 days.
Usage of the deep cycle will be for accessories (WACO CF50DZ fridge, Outside light's, radio, computer, etc).
I'm towing a caravan that has it's own deep cycle battery charged off the vehicle and 240V.
I've visited auto elec's 4WD and battery shops and asked what to fit and receive so many different stories I'm more confused than when I started.
Reply By: burnsy - Sunday, Oct 18, 2009 at 09:41
Sunday, Oct 18, 2009 at 09:41
I use SuperCharge batteries.
I recently changes both batteries where I kept the RHS one the original size so I could use the battery protector. On the RHS I fitted a N70 battery in which Supercharge can supply what they call a all rounder for both starting & deep cycle.
I have used & sold quiet a few of these batteries with only one having a problem which was fixed under warranty. It's like tyres & oils, If you have a good run out of a particular brand you will use it again.
Regards Mike
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387562
Reply By: Maîneÿ . . .- Sunday, Oct 18, 2009 at 10:13
Sunday, Oct 18, 2009 at 10:13
I state here and now, the information I've been led to believe is, you can start a 4.2Lt Toyota diesel with just one large capacity high CCA battery.
So I would replace one battery with the above specs Cranking battery and the other with an AGM Deep Cycle as large as will fit into the available cradle space.
You say: "Require guidance for *best* and cost effective type"
Do you mean *best* and cheapest type ??
I use an Electronic Auto isolation switch (expencive & efficient)
Also have a 140 Amp "Auto Disconnect switch" ($39) to manually connect ALL batteries together for charging from Solar system
0R
for Cranking if required
Image Could Not Be FoundMaîneÿ . . .
AnswerID:
387565
Follow Up By: Ziggy100 - Sunday, Oct 18, 2009 at 17:42
Sunday, Oct 18, 2009 at 17:42
HI Mainy,
Thanks.
The idea of one large cranking battery ad a deep cycle is in-line with my original thoughts, but some of the answers I'd received from my initial investigation was saying two normal high about 700CCA was OK.
I was looking at CAT batteries as I understand they have one of the highest "Size for size" cranking capacity and longest warranty.
My comment cost effective didn't actually mean cheap just the best option.
In the case you described with isolator and battery auto disconnect would I need a Auto Elec to do the work knowing how temperamental these vehicles electronic systems are.
Ziggy100
FollowupID:
655111
Follow Up By: Maîneÿ . . .- Sunday, Oct 18, 2009 at 18:50
Sunday, Oct 18, 2009 at 18:50
I would only use a genuine Cranking battery as your Cranking battery and a Deep Cycle AGM as a slow discharge storage battery for your accessories.
The two different types of batteries are made differently to do different jobs.
As a comparison, one of the most often used batteries is the Exide extreme, a brilliant Cranking battery, many will tell you it's also a brilliant battery for everything.
The manufacturer gives it a 2 year warranty as a dedicated Cranking battery because it is as I said a brilliant cranking battery, but they do reduce the warranty to only 6 months if it is used for anything other than a dedicated Cranking battery.
Reason is because it's not made to be used as a slow discharge storage battery.
However they do make suitable batteries but they are different technical specifications.
Maîneÿ . . .
FollowupID:
655115
Follow Up By: Maîneÿ . . .- Sunday, Oct 18, 2009 at 19:01
Sunday, Oct 18, 2009 at 19:01
Woops missed the second part to your question, unless you have a solar system to charge your batteries you will not need a second auto disconnect switch as I use.
Just get an Electronic battery isolator, or even a mechanical solenoid to maintain the two batteries.
If you buy the isolator from where they sell cable too then get them to advise you where to fit the isolator and buy two lengths of suitable 32mm sq battery cable with appropiate lugs fitted by them also.
Take it home and it will take you an hour to install, you will probably need to drill a few holes to connect the isolator and a suitable spanner to bolt the cables to the two batteries and isolator, too easy.
Maîneÿ . . .
FollowupID:
655117
Reply By: Member - Graham H (QLD) - Sunday, Oct 18, 2009 at 12:04
Sunday, Oct 18, 2009 at 12:04
The original batteries were only 460cca each.
I bought two Yeasu HYBRID N70zz which fit in perfectly
They are perfectly capable of starting the car on the coldest morning using only 1 as they are about 660cca each
Easiest and cheapest solution is to buy a Redarc off Derek on here and go to a Batteryworld
shop and get the cables made out of 2 B & S.
Mount the Redarc in the screw holes already in the l/h inner guard and get cables made up to fit.
Only about a 2 hour job doing it yourself.
Then all your accessories run off the r/h battery
You can run wires along the top of r/h chassis rail as there is a wiring loom already there to cable tie the wires to.
AnswerID:
387569
Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Sunday, Oct 18, 2009 at 13:57
Sunday, Oct 18, 2009 at 13:57
My vehicle has the same motor and came with a single N70 cranking battery. It is common and very simple to split the batteries on your vehicle, and I've done this to some friends vehicles. The LHS battery will remain as the cranking battery, and the RHS becomes the aux. The cables coming off the RHS battery is just the air intake preheat. I kept the original loom that comes across the radiator shroud and extended it to an isolator mounted on the RHS inner guard, then back to the aux battery.
You can fit an N70 battery (12") or even a 13" battery into the RHS tray. It may overhang a little - that doesn't matter.
AnswerID:
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Follow Up By: Member - Graham H (QLD) - Sunday, Oct 18, 2009 at 14:27
Sunday, Oct 18, 2009 at 14:27
According to the Redarc instructions it is best to mount the isolator close to the cranking battery hence my advice to mount it on the L/H inner guard.
I preferred to use a one piece cable to run across the front as a joined cable is subject to maybe the connectors shorting somewhere.
The 2 B&S is only $6 a metre so is not worth doing a rough job for $18 worth of better quality cable.
MHO anyway
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Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Sunday, Oct 18, 2009 at 20:54
Sunday, Oct 18, 2009 at 20:54
Gday Graham,
Yep, you're right - its the same with most isolators - they do it so the sensing voltage is fairly accurate if you're using minimalist cable. But with the factory cable or 2G battery cable, its not an issue.
Cheers
Phil
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