Waeco cf50 power confusion

Submitted: Monday, Oct 26, 2009 at 13:59
ThreadID: 73315 Views:6277 Replies:9 FollowUps:5
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Hello all,
I am hoping someone with a bit of experience with portable refrig's can help me. I have a near new CF50. It works very well on 240v and also through the cigarette lighter outlet 12v while driving along. However, when the car engine goes off, the cf50 also goes off.
I also tried a direct connection to a 105 ah deep cycle battery with a short lead adaptor. No go. No LCD display and no compressor working.
Do you think I am ddoing something wrong. If so what.Any help would be much appreciated as I am a newbie with the 12v world.
Thank you in advance
BG
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Reply By: snoopy2 - Monday, Oct 26, 2009 at 14:05

Monday, Oct 26, 2009 at 14:05
Hi Bruce,

In most vehicles, when you turn the ignition off, it also turns off power to thw cigarette lighter.

If you tries connecting it directly to the battery, make sure you (a) have a fully charged battery, (b) the polarity is the right way around and (c) you have a good connection to get full voltage and amps through to the fridge. You should also check your "short lead adaptor" to kake sure it is working. Plugging a fluro lamp into it is a good test as it also tests polarity.

Hope this helps.

Michael
AnswerID: 388777

Reply By: Notso - Monday, Oct 26, 2009 at 14:06

Monday, Oct 26, 2009 at 14:06
Sounds like a power supply problem to me.

What voltage is the battery holding when you haven't got the engine running?

Sounds as if there isn't enough volts getting to the freezer when the engine is off, check battery voltage, if you can check the voltage getting to the fridge after any fuse that is in the line.

These fridges have a low voltage cut out the prevents them from draining your battery dead flat so if something is causing a voltage drop to around 11 volts (I think) the compressor will not start.
AnswerID: 388778

Reply By: Member - Boo Boo (NSW) - Monday, Oct 26, 2009 at 14:15

Monday, Oct 26, 2009 at 14:15
Bg

If your leads are all fairly thin wire then thats your problem.

The wires needs to be quite thick, at least 6mm square, or in laymans terms about 2/3 the thickness of your little finger.

It is probably best to connect the wiring to the battery and use an in line fuse. A second battery to run the fridge is also a good idea.

Now I'll probably be chastised for my description of the wire thickness. LOL

I had a similar problem when I first had my fridge wiring installed by an auto electrcian. He put in ordinary trailer wiring.

AnswerID: 388782

Follow Up By: Member - Allan B (QLD) - Monday, Oct 26, 2009 at 16:13

Monday, Oct 26, 2009 at 16:13
I thought it should be 1/2 the thickness of your third finger.

Or is it 1/3 the thickness of your second finger? Never can remember!

Surely there is an Australian Standard for this? LOL @ BooBoo

Cheers
Allan

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Follow Up By: Member - Boo Boo (NSW) - Monday, Oct 26, 2009 at 18:29

Monday, Oct 26, 2009 at 18:29
Allan,,,,,,,,,,

I hve feelings you know! LOL
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Follow Up By: Member - Allan B (QLD) - Monday, Oct 26, 2009 at 18:44

Monday, Oct 26, 2009 at 18:44
So do I BooBoo, I rediscover them every time I hit my thumb with a hammer !!!

Cheers
Allan

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FollowupID: 656514

Reply By: swampy66 - Monday, Oct 26, 2009 at 14:55

Monday, Oct 26, 2009 at 14:55
Settings!

My CF40 has a low voltage cut out function. There are 3 different voltage settings for the unit to shut down at.

Check your manual.

Good Luck
AnswerID: 388787

Follow Up By: snoopy2 - Monday, Oct 26, 2009 at 16:30

Monday, Oct 26, 2009 at 16:30
The cutout voltages for my CF40

High - 12.6 Volt
Med - 12.0 Volt
Low - 11.0 Volt

If your switch is set to HIGH the fridge will probably only run when the engine is going.
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FollowupID: 656493

Reply By: TerraFirma - Monday, Oct 26, 2009 at 15:15

Monday, Oct 26, 2009 at 15:15
Yes I would turn off the low voltage protection on the fridge, that way you can establish that the fridge works however is not getting the desired voltage. If the fridge works ok given you said it is near new, then you have a low voltage issue via your vehicle, either battery or something else.
AnswerID: 388789

Reply By: Mandrake - Monday, Oct 26, 2009 at 15:49

Monday, Oct 26, 2009 at 15:49
Check the fuse in the Merit Plug too - I think they may have one ..
AnswerID: 388798

Follow Up By: Mandrake - Monday, Oct 26, 2009 at 15:49

Monday, Oct 26, 2009 at 15:49
Forget that - it works while moving ...

Back to sleep Mandrake ... doh !
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FollowupID: 656482

Reply By: Robnicko - Tuesday, Oct 27, 2009 at 08:31

Tuesday, Oct 27, 2009 at 08:31
Bruce,
The lead Waeco supply is really not up to it.
I have a CF40 and use to have issues till I did the following.

Cut the end that plugs into the fridge off with about 50mm of cable. Get 6mm cable and make up a lead about 1metre long and use the small anderson connectors on the end (50amp).
I also use an inline fuse holder (7.5amp) as well.

Since doing this about 1 year ago I have never had an issue with mine. In fact it has not even been turned off since. It runs off a 2nd battery and will run for 5-6 days before needing to start the car.

I can even drop the temp and use the turbo function with the car not being started for days and it will not fail. Previously, it would fail after about 30 seconds due to increased amp draw.

The only setback with this is that anderson plugs need to be in the car you use the fridge in, unless you buy a second lead.

I'm sure that when your fridge fails if you feel the +ve end of the merit plug it will be very hot. The standard lead is ok if as you said the car engine is running as more amps are flowing.

Rob

AnswerID: 388908

Reply By: Von Helga - Tuesday, Oct 27, 2009 at 10:33

Tuesday, Oct 27, 2009 at 10:33
Bruce,
Is the 105ah deep cycle fitted to the vehicle when you are doing the test with the "Short Lead Adaptor", if so then connect it again where as the fridge does not start and then start the car and given what you have said the fridge will start. Given your "newbie" status to 12 volt this would indicate low voltage at the deep cycle battery which gets fixed when the car is running. As a seperate test after you have been for a drive then do the same thing using the starter battery in the car for a very short time only as you don't want to flatten it(which this short test should not) I'd suggest the fridge will run before you start the car however, if there is a short in the fridge then the battery will not be happy so only do it for a short test.
If the deep cycle battery is not in the car and provided you can operate a multi-meter check the voltage of the battery, if it is lower than 12.5 volts then put it on a charger. If you don't have one then get an Auto 3 stage Battery Charger of at least 10 amp capacity to bring the battery up to a decent State of Charge. You can connect the fridge to the battery when it is on the charger to continue checking your fridge issue as the charger will bring the volts up to enable the fridge to work. Check the position of the 3 stage switch on the power panel of the fridge where you plug the cable in to and make sure it is on HIGH.
If you get no joy at that stage then have you fridge checked by the dealer.
Also read the Power and Electrics articles to educate yourself on the cabling requirements.
Regards
Trevor
AnswerID: 388919

Reply By: Member - Bruce G (QLD) - Tuesday, Oct 27, 2009 at 12:52

Tuesday, Oct 27, 2009 at 12:52
Hello and thank you very much to all of you who replied to my waeco query.
The number of replies has surprised me and I am grateful.
I will be following your suggestions and will advise how I go.
I am nil comprende regarding how auto electricians can install wires that are too thin. Why?
Still; a lot of things in this world make no sense too me. I must be strange.
Cheers Bruce
AnswerID: 388942

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