Simpson Desert Feedback

We are researching a crossing from east to west in July/August 2010. We are experienced outback travellers and will carry a comprehensive set of recovery gear. Interested in feedback about the pros and cons of east to west or west to east travel. We may be travelling alone, is that an issue? Seachanger
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Reply By: Member - Graham H (QLD) - Friday, Nov 06, 2009 at 11:45

Friday, Nov 06, 2009 at 11:45
Read thread 73560.


AnswerID: 390221

Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Friday, Nov 06, 2009 at 11:55

Friday, Nov 06, 2009 at 11:55
In July/August it can get busy out there, so its probably the best time to travel solo. Communications are very important, and if travelling solo, you have to consider the possibility of wearing the high cost of a recovery, if you break down.

I don't think it matters which direction you travel, although I prefer to go from the east. Chances are the approaches to the dunes are a bit smoother on the eastern faces and if a sandy lip is on the dunes (unlikely in July/August) then its easier from the east.
AnswerID: 390223

Reply By: Willem - Friday, Nov 06, 2009 at 12:20

Friday, Nov 06, 2009 at 12:20
July August you should meet a a fellow adventurer every couple of hours...so you will not be alone out there

Experience in Outback Travel is helpful but experience in Desert Sand Travel is better

Comprehensive set of recovery gear?? What does this include? Also you must have to ability to use whatever recovery gear you have. Best equipment for Simpson is a shovel, sand mats and tyre pressure gauge

East west is steeper but generally smoother as prevailing winds are from the west. West side of dune slopes normally more chopped out as surface is harder and hundreds of travellers traverse the dunes with incorrect tyre pressures.

Suitable radio or phone communication is a must.
AnswerID: 390225

Reply By: Tenpounder (SA) - Friday, Nov 06, 2009 at 12:53

Friday, Nov 06, 2009 at 12:53
Hi there. People have mentioned the volume of other travellers, but haven't mentioned that the traffic flow depends on which route you take!! OK, so the French Line route is the most common, but there are others (eg Rig Road).
If there's lots of people, especially travelling in the opposite direction, then a BIG sand flag and UHF on Ch 10 are vital (even tho some other drivers use neither). If there are not lots of people, then snatch straps etc won't be much use, and shovel/MaxTrax/winch and similar become more the order of battle. I wouldn't go solo if I could avoid it, but I guess Satphone and EPIRB could compensate (one way hire of Satphone is available at Mt Dare and Birdsville).
I can't comment on direction, but repeat there is also the question of the choice of route which will have a bearing on difficulty and also traffic volumes.
The desert is fantastic, but it is also potentially daunting. If you travel with others, you can share the task of walking the dubious dunes to establish the best options. Remember, the wind can often remove tyre tracks over the dune tops within minutes, and you're left like Lawrence of Arabia without his camel.
Enjoy.
AnswerID: 390227

Reply By: Member - Stephen L (Clare SA) - Friday, Nov 06, 2009 at 14:56

Friday, Nov 06, 2009 at 14:56
Seachanger
Many good replies above. With at bit of experience, you should get through if you follow a few very basis requirements, that surprisingly not every one follows. The ones that do not follow it are the Cowboys, Have 4x4 can go anywhere with no preparation or exception.

We have travelled the Simpson countless times, and it will get you in. We prefer the east/west crossings, a little more of a challenge, but still no dramas.

July/August are peak times our there, and the best time to drive it. Days should be perfect, mid to high 20's, even low 30's. Nights will depend on any cloud cover from well below 0 to teens when cloud cover. If you follow what I suggest, you should have a very enjoyable and safe trip.

At the base of either Big/Little Red, depending which way you want to go over, drop your tyre pressure to 14psi.

You must have a good sand flag, at least 3m high from ground level.

Use channel 10 UHF, but also scan, and keep a listen out for any radio traffic that may be in the area that you will be.

Do not go like a Bull at a Gate, gentle as she goes are the best results.

When at the top of the larger dune in the area that you are going over, put out a call on channel 10, asking if anyone is travelling the track that you are travelling.

Set up camp early, so you can go for a walk, get the fire going and take in the surroundings before it gets dark.

Having said what I have said, if you are experienced, you will know what I am talking about.

Drive to the conditions and your experience and will have a great trip.

Cheers

Stephen
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AnswerID: 390242

Follow Up By: Member - Mick O (VIC) - Friday, Nov 06, 2009 at 21:50

Friday, Nov 06, 2009 at 21:50
Comprehensive reply Stephen, I'd just add carrying a little fire wood with you can be very advantageous and make sure you have decent tyres with you. If your using splits and tubes, be aware that sand can get past the bead and ruins your tubes really fast if you are using really low pressures. A good A/T or better is an advantage. As tenpounder said above, a stiff wind will erase all tracks on the dune tops within minutes so care is needed in those conditions and a UHF is a must. Use frequently to announce your position.

Hope you enjoy it. Fantastic trip from either direction. Bit of info from my previous trips

Big Red west to Poeppels Corner

West on the French, Knolls Track and WAA Line to Erebena

WAA, Colson Track & French Line to Dalhousie


Cheers Mick


''We knew from the experience of well-known travelers that the
trip would doubtless be attended with much hardship.''
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Follow Up By: Member - Stephen L (Clare SA) - Friday, Nov 06, 2009 at 22:35

Friday, Nov 06, 2009 at 22:35
Hi Mick,
We will have to get you out into the Simpson Desert proper one day. LOL. After our Geo crossing, over 400 kilometres of no tracks from The Twins, out to the Colson, then on to Geosurvey Hill, then north-east to a confluence, then down to the Geographical Centre, the usual Simpson tracks are a walk in the park and like driving on a bitumen road. When we got back onto the QAA, nearly ever dune that we approached, some vehicle had been very badly bogged, and must have spent hours filling in the tracks with cane grass, while we just glided over with no problems. After a few dune we thought that it would have to stop, but no, all the way to Big Red. We mentioned this in Birdsville and was told than some European Tourists in a hired Troopy went through in 40 psi and got bogged on every dune, what a joke. Just imagine how much fuel they must have used.

Cheers

Stephen

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Follow Up By: Member - Mick O (VIC) - Friday, Nov 06, 2009 at 23:36

Friday, Nov 06, 2009 at 23:36
Stephen,

I tackled a bit of that in 1984 in a Datsun 720 Kingcab 4x4 ute Grossly underpowered with the L18 - 1800cc 4). I had a rack setup in the back and cut myself six lengths of 50mm weld mesh that were about 2m x 450. The good old days of compass, map and sextant map. My mate was a navigation buff who was proficient with the sextant. No GPS or moving map LOL. Hired a "Flying Doctor Radio" Ha. Took me 23 years to go back LOL. Bloody tough going. I must digitise those photos and dig out the travel journal.

Cheers Mick
''We knew from the experience of well-known travelers that the
trip would doubtless be attended with much hardship.''
Richard Maurice - 1903

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Follow Up By: Member - Stephen L (Clare SA) - Saturday, Nov 07, 2009 at 09:32

Saturday, Nov 07, 2009 at 09:32
Hi Mick
The one sure thing about a true cross country Simpson trip is it will not matter if it was 1964 when Reg Sprigg made the first crossing, or 2010 when Fred Blocks does it, it will not change. As you would know, there are some real mother of dunes out in the centre and one soon becomes an expert at picking the easiest way over - or around the hardest. There is not the luxury of a little speed to get over them, just pick the best path and avoid these dreaded moguls.

Cheers

Stephen
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Follow Up By: Member - Boobook - Saturday, Nov 14, 2009 at 08:05

Saturday, Nov 14, 2009 at 08:05
Stephen et all, I am going on my first simpson trip next year.
Can you elaborate on the wood situation if we did one of the heavily traveled routes. Say the French line. Will we need to carry in every bit of wood we need?

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Follow Up By: Member - Stephen L (Clare SA) - Saturday, Nov 14, 2009 at 08:34

Saturday, Nov 14, 2009 at 08:34
Hi Boobook
The Simpson is a great place, and if you have not been out there before, you will have a ball. Like all have mentioned, your biggest enemy is too high a tyre pressure. Most times, you will be travelling slow, second and third gear high range. There will be times when you can faster and use other gears, but for a first trip, just take it all in. Depending on which way you are crossing, you will find that wood is getting scarce in the western parts of the desert, but will always find enough for that nightly camp fire. The eastern sections of the desert, just before Poeppel Corner, you get into the Gidgee Country with a lot more solid timber around. Our motto was when you see good timber collect it, as when you get to a good camp site, thousands of other people have thought the same, and timber could be scarce. You do not need ton's of wood, and you will know after a few camps what you need, and us it sparingly. It would be impossible to bring enough timber with you, plus you would not have the room.

Cheers

Stephen
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Reply By: Member - Flynnie (NSW) - Saturday, Nov 07, 2009 at 01:20

Saturday, Nov 07, 2009 at 01:20
Seachanger

I doubt it makes much difference west to east or east to west. Done both a few weeks apart earlier this year. The main problem is the chopping up of the tracks by other vehicles (too fast and too high tyre pressures) and this was more or less the same both ways when I did it.

The trips I did were alone as in one vehicle one person. Since you say "we" I guess there will be two or more people in your one vehicle. As others have said there is a lot of traffic out there these days and it would be fairly easy to join up with some others and travel together for a few days if that is what you wanted to do.

Special considerations for travelling alone would be communication. Two CBs, one of them being a good hand held would be a start. Maxtrax and a long handled shovel would be the most important recovery gear. Plus at least one air compressor, two is better.

Keep centre of gravity low. Avoid roof racks. Might sound like I am preaching, and probably am, but I think biggest problems are caused by overloading. There was one or two occasions on the Rig Road after the sand was blown around by a strong wind that I was very pleased I had no weight up high. To get around some of the dunes that were encroaching on the track it was necessary to drive tilted at a bit of an angle so the lower the centre of gravity the better.



AnswerID: 390318

Reply By: X-Trail Fan - Friday, Nov 13, 2009 at 18:25

Friday, Nov 13, 2009 at 18:25
Did the East to west crossing a couple of years ago. It was fine. I think better than from the west. The Eastern approaches were fairly straight forward. Dropping down on the western side often meant a sharp drop of 20 or so metres then an abrupt levelling off followed by another drop into the next swale. The Eastern approaches were much smoother by my reckoning. I'd rather be doing the rougher bit on the way down than the way up. Maybe personal preference has more to do with it. We went in at Clifton Hills Stn, camped on the Warburton, then got to the first dunes and it rained 2 inches. No way back so we kept going. Travelled the Rig rd, Knoll track and French line. We had several days of rain. Rd was closed at Spring Creek Delta, so we used the northern bypass. It was bloody cold a lot of the time and quite warm at other times. Have warm clobber. Travelled several km on 45 cm water covered sections. We walked these sections first to check for washouts, but they ended up being fine. The water was super chilly. Had another vehicle with us. Boggy along the edges of the tracks so stay on line, or its axle deep fun. X-Trail had no trouble. Our friends had a Patrol. Be ready for any eventuality. A 2 inch downpour can strand you for a while if you are not careful. If on your own have good comms. Met several large groups 20+ vehicles coming from the west, so would be looked after, provided you are on the more frequented part of the network of roads.
Stay alert, tall flag, UHF and don't hit a camel! Have a great time. Take some fire wood with you, and 1200+ km of fuel.
AnswerID: 391145

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