Evakool BD 35 fault, knoledge needed

Hi all

I have an Evakool BD 35 fridge and last summer it started to fault and not start, Evakool were good enough to supply me with a new black box and a circuit breaker which i nstalled but didnt solve the problem.
Then a couple of weeks later the unit started working and has been fine since, however I have been waiting for the fault to re occur as it was not found / fixed.

I have been told by Evakool and local fridgy that the compressor units rarely fail.

The 2 items left (apart from compressor) that may be somehow causing fault are the thermostat and the cooling fan.

Does anyone have any ideas?

The fault shows up as 3 light flashes which is supposed =
3 Flashes = Motor start error (The rotor is blocked
or the differential pressure in the refrigeration
system is too high [>72.5 psi]). Compressor may not
start because of high refrigerant pressure due to a
high heat situation. High ambient temperatures may
cause excessive heat, if so then the area around the
unit must be cooled down before trying to restart
compressor. Or, if compressor just cycled off, wait a
few minutes for pressure to come down and try
again.

It does seem that the issue has re occured with the hot ambient temps comming back, but the fridge has never had an issue before and oviously should be able to start up with high ambient temps or what value would it be!

Any information would be appreciated.

Regards
GN
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Reply By: Member - G N (VIC) - Thursday, Nov 12, 2009 at 17:49

Thursday, Nov 12, 2009 at 17:49
Hi again
I should of added that the unit will not start iether on the vehical 12v system or the 240v power adptor.

I have changed the wire feeding the fridge and the plug on the cabinet also = still no good.

If the "differential pressure" is too great, what can be done about that?

I thought there was a small "bypass" tube in the cappilary which allows the head pressure to balance out and not impead start up?

when i say the unit wont start, it is not after it has been running, it just wont start at any time, even if its been off for a week.

Regards
GN
AnswerID: 391026

Follow Up By: dbish - Thursday, Nov 12, 2009 at 18:48

Thursday, Nov 12, 2009 at 18:48
Hi GN, The pressure difference with capilliary tube system should equalise after 2 to 3 minutes. You may then have to switch of the power to reset the electronic module then switch backon, compressor should restart. The only reason i can think of is perhaps the thermostat is cuting backin too soon. It certainly should re start after aweek. When you restart after aweek & it doesnt run does it come back with the same code?
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FollowupID: 658859

Follow Up By: Member - G N (VIC) - Thursday, Nov 12, 2009 at 18:55

Thursday, Nov 12, 2009 at 18:55
Hi dbish

yes it always comes up with the 3 light flash which is also what it was showing last summer when it was not starting.

rgds
GN
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FollowupID: 658860

Follow Up By: dbish - Thursday, Nov 12, 2009 at 19:13

Thursday, Nov 12, 2009 at 19:13
You could try notso sugestion , but low voltage normaly comes up with one flash repeated. It almost looks like Locked rotor or faulty control module on the side of the compressor. The module is about $230 not cheap un fortunately.
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FollowupID: 658862

Follow Up By: dbish - Thursday, Nov 12, 2009 at 19:16

Thursday, Nov 12, 2009 at 19:16
I am asuming this uses a Danfos BD35 compresor?
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FollowupID: 658864

Follow Up By: Member - G N (VIC) - Thursday, Nov 12, 2009 at 19:30

Thursday, Nov 12, 2009 at 19:30
Hi dbish

yes its a BD 35 compressor.

Have already replaced the control module, again when it would not start last year and again it did not start many times i tried after changing the module but then after a week or so i just tried it again one day and away it went and has not faulted for the last few months and now have not been able to get it to start after tried a number of times over a few days both with 12v car system and also with the 240v adaptor!

What actualy causes a "locked rotor"?
regards
GN
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FollowupID: 658867

Follow Up By: dbish - Thursday, Nov 12, 2009 at 21:52

Thursday, Nov 12, 2009 at 21:52
The only thing i can think of that would cause rotor lockup would be something in the system jaming the piston of the compressor or intermitent blockage of capilary tube. Dont know if diagnosing this is posible for you, but you would need to use gauges on the suction line & discharge line to chek if the pressures were actualy equillising. Almost looking like a compressor prob.
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FollowupID: 658895

Follow Up By: dbish - Thursday, Nov 12, 2009 at 21:57

Thursday, Nov 12, 2009 at 21:57
If you suspect the thermostat & its a mecanical type just bridge the conectors when it refuses to start & see what happens. Cheers Daryl.
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FollowupID: 658896

Reply By: Notso - Thursday, Nov 12, 2009 at 19:04

Thursday, Nov 12, 2009 at 19:04
Have you checked the voltage after the fuse on the unit?

My older model had a large voltage drop across the inbuilt fuse on the side of the box.

I ended up replacing the in line fuse with a blade type and it has been fine for the last 9 years.
AnswerID: 391030

Follow Up By: Member - G N (VIC) - Thursday, Nov 12, 2009 at 19:24

Thursday, Nov 12, 2009 at 19:24
Hi notso

No i hav not done so but will.

I did change the fuse to the circuit breaker suppled by Evakool last year when it 1st would not start and it made no difference but as i said a week or so later when i tried it again it worked fine and has for the last few months.

Regards
GN
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FollowupID: 658866

Follow Up By: Ken65 - Thursday, Nov 12, 2009 at 20:41

Thursday, Nov 12, 2009 at 20:41
I too had a problem with Evakool fridge recently. It was bringing up 3 flash code. Evakool replaced the built in fuse holder with a circuit breaker and it has not faulted since.
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FollowupID: 658879

Follow Up By: Member - G N (VIC) - Thursday, Nov 12, 2009 at 20:55

Thursday, Nov 12, 2009 at 20:55
thanks Ken65 + notso
sonds like its maybe worth doing so volt checks
regards
GN

ps will hope to get time tomorrow and let you know the results
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FollowupID: 658884

Follow Up By: trainslux - Friday, Nov 13, 2009 at 10:15

Friday, Nov 13, 2009 at 10:15
Remove the cover, and check voltage before and after the fuse, that will show clearly whats going on.
There is also a 3a fuse inside the danfoss controller too.

You can get those 10a circuit breakers from jacar and the likes, well worth doing, even if your not having issues.

Dont think there more than 15 bucks by memory.
Alot of problems with british cars I found was related back to simmilar fuse assys giving problems.
Yeah, and LUCAS...........the original car imobiliser.

A few points to consider too.
Re the fan, ive come across alot of fans in computers etc, that have become dry and sieze up causing blown ps issues and other failures etc.

Grab some castrol handy oil, ie the sewing machine oil, and remove the sticker from the top of the center of the fan, and there is a small circlip, remove and most fans will slide off the shaft, clean shaft, oil bush in fan, and reassemble.
No probs for along time re the fan, or high amps on start up of the fan, which affects the danfoss with fan forced condensor.

This will repair most high amp on start fan issues, and is handy to know, as it most likely happens when your out and about.

Hope this helps, and you find the problem soon.

Trains
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FollowupID: 658934

Follow Up By: trainslux - Friday, Nov 13, 2009 at 13:12

Friday, Nov 13, 2009 at 13:12
copy and paste from outers from a previous danfoss thread.

Woot found all the info after spending hours googling. I have all the diagrams for the various compressors.

BD80: http://www.rparts.com/Catalog/Major_Components/compressors/Danfoss/BD80F_compressor.pdf

BD50: http://www.rparts.com/Catalog/Major_Components/compressors/Danfoss/BD50F_compressor.pdf

BD35: http://www.rparts.com/Catalog/Major_Components/compressors/Danfoss/BD35F_compressor.pdf

There are a couple more but I haven't found the diagrams for them yet.
It seems that a common problem with these compressors is that the electronic controller can die, I found on this site http://coldtechnology.com.au/index.html the instructions to test the controller, thermostat, power supply and the compressor itself. They are in detail and that easy to follow a monkey could do it.

http://coldtechnology.com.au/TestPageA.pdf

http://coldtechnology.com.au/TestpageB.pdf

Hopefully this will help others.[/url]
Thanks KRammer

Trains
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FollowupID: 658947

Follow Up By: trainslux - Friday, Nov 13, 2009 at 13:20

Friday, Nov 13, 2009 at 13:20
more copy and paste.

· If the power supply is free of loose, bad, and/or high resistance connections, the voltage reading will stay very stable and only drop slightly when the compressor starts. As a general rule, on a 12v system the reading should not drop below 12v.

· If, when the compressor attempts to start, the voltage reading drops significantly, a bad electrical connection should be suspected. If the voltage drop is sufficient to fall below the 10.5v (23v) cut-off built in to the controller, the compressor will stop. (At this point the voltage may return to it’s original reading.) The fan (or in marine applications the pump) will continue to run for approx. 45 seconds and then the compressor will attempt a re-start. If the pre start voltage is above 11.5v (23.5v) the compressor will start or attempt to re-start again.

WARNING If the multi-meter you are using is a digital model, the voltage may drop below 10.5v (23v) and then recover too quickly to register on the meter. This means the compressor is attempting to start, then stopping due to low voltage, the voltage returns to its’ original value, and there being no significant drop on the meter.

· If the compressor starts and runs OK but stops after a short while, or when the battery charger is turned off, the voltage may be gradually dropping falling below the 10.5v (23v) cut-off point when the compressor tries to restart. This should be identified on your meter.

· If the nature of the fault is such that the voltage reading drops below 10.5v (23v) even before the compressor attempts to start, a very bad electrical connection must be suspected. This is because even the small load of the fan or pump relay, both less than 0.5 amp (0.25 amp), is seemingly sufficient to reduce the voltage considerably.

Trains
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FollowupID: 658948

Follow Up By: dbish - Friday, Nov 13, 2009 at 13:41

Friday, Nov 13, 2009 at 13:41
The Cold technology.com pdf is for the very old 4pin danfos compressor the controler is no longer avalable.
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FollowupID: 658950

Follow Up By: trainslux - Friday, Nov 13, 2009 at 18:23

Friday, Nov 13, 2009 at 18:23
Thanks for letting us know.
I was not aware of that.
Sorry if I sent you in the wrong direction.

Trains
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FollowupID: 658964

Follow Up By: Member - G N (VIC) - Tuesday, Nov 17, 2009 at 09:10

Tuesday, Nov 17, 2009 at 09:10
Hi all
well finaly got a min to do some tests and result = nil, still got same fault.

The frustrating bit is that the fridge did go fine all winter and has not faulted since last summer, but soon as it got hot this year the fault re occured.

I know it sounds like a compressor i guess, but both evakool and local fridgy both recon these units rarely fail.

see list of what i hve tried below.
many thanks
GN

I have tried the following
Tried to start with vehicle power supply
Tried to start with 240v adaptor power supply
Have renewed the wire for the power sources to the fridge cabinet
I have replaced the connector at the fridge cabinet
I have by passed the thermostat completely
I have tried a new thermostat
I have disconnected the fan
I have tried a new fan
I have by passed the circuit breaker
I have loop wired on the black box from terminal “T” to “C”
I have ran main power + straight to the black box power feed
I have run the main earth straight to the black box earth terminal.

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FollowupID: 659365

Follow Up By: dbish - Tuesday, Nov 17, 2009 at 09:47

Tuesday, Nov 17, 2009 at 09:47
Hi G N, Sorry nothing seems to have worked, Ime certainly interested in whats happening as I have 2 Waeco fridges with BD 35 compressors in them. I also used to do fridge repairs & still hav all the equipment. You seem to have done about every thing that can be done. If you dont have the equipment for checking discharge & suction pressure, then theres probably not mutch more you can do. It does sound like compressor prob. Cheers Daryl.
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FollowupID: 659370

Follow Up By: Member - G N (VIC) - Tuesday, Nov 17, 2009 at 14:01

Tuesday, Nov 17, 2009 at 14:01
Hi Daryl
thanks for info

i will get a fridgy to look at it next week and will let you know what happens

Regards
GN
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FollowupID: 659398

Reply By: Rod - Friday, Nov 13, 2009 at 14:24

Friday, Nov 13, 2009 at 14:24
I've occasionally had this rotor problem when the weather is hot and the battery voltage is starting to taper off. I suspect the fridge becomes more sensitive to it at lower voltages. The voltage is not low enough to error as low voltage on the fridge, but obviously not high enough either.

I've replaced some of the internal wiring in the fridge as it appeared quite light gauge. I was concerned about internal voltage drop.

Problem occurs very rarely now, and if it does, goes away after turning the power off for 3 minutes.
AnswerID: 391127

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