Swaping Landcruiser bodys

LOL, Fair enough,lol. Im confused what the bleep I should do! In a nut shell,
I have a tired 99 quite rusty...... I got a REAL good so called wreck (03) the other day. The body is dented and damaged but no rust..... My thoughts are, get the running gear and treat the rust. What do you recken..?

Personally I'd go the other way, to me good running gear and no rust despite the shape of the rust free panel will win every time.

Once you start chasing rust you'll never catch it.

Geoff

YO YO. Im hearing you. Only big one now is...... Mines is converted to a duel cab( no thats not where the rust is....) And I love it, i couldn't live with a wagon. hmmmmm, I can cut and weld,lol.

Thanks for your feed back mate. Umm any knolage regarding the 98-99 being 200kg lighter than the 00-07 100's????

Thursday tomorrow:)

200kgs lighter is probably due to the dual cab conversion ;) hehehehe

The motor difference between the 99 and 03 1HZ motor is also the emmissions stuff they were required to add.


Cheers Kev

searching, searching...........:(((((((((( close but not quite........ I'll keep looking Im new here:)

try>>
Land Cruiser Owners On Line

;-))

ummm, yer. not sure now you put it like that,lol. Um there both standard models. one is dated 1999 the other 2003. What year did the 100's change to 105's?

105's have a solid axel in the front, 100's have IFS.

Std model are 105 series,very different beast to the 100 series underneath.
They were both sold at the same time.
All the info is on the plate on the firewall

Gday,
Ima mechanic - no longer in the trade. In 99 I swapped out a chassis on a my Prado. So I can help with info on how to split the chassis from the body on your Landcruiser.
Different models but Toyota design philosophies much the same.

Basically you detach all conections(wires pipes etc) Body is bolted to chassis at ten points (chech on your L/C model) down the length of chassis ( bolts have rubber donuts (insulation) between chassis and body.
Basically I bottle jacked body off Chassis (need at least 2-4 bottle jacks) then run lengths of wood at two points ( above rear wheel and behind front wheel) through width of chassis so they had two foot (estimate your own needs) out each side of vehicle. Then I elevated vehicle on a centre post style hoist(think old style '70s garage hoist - I was lucky to be able to find indie s/ station not using garage workshop and hired for 1 week) placed Brickies trestles in place at four points (beware of the height you set for trestles off ground, see further). Dropped vehicle down and presto body now on trestle 4 or so foot in air and chassis with all running gear on floor wheel out etc.
caution lower radiator support on frnot vehicle skirt area needs to be high enough to clear top of motor - i.e intake manifold.

Also havent read much of your thread so you will have to plan for two bodies on trestles i suppose.
Remember I was swapping chassis's ( I repaired insuro writeoff with crushed right front chassis rail) out and in.

I agree I look for good body / chassis (no rust) and the running gear is easier to repair / upgrade / maintain.

Let me know if this helps
PS re - weight etc. go to Toyo forums to get data on weight etc. Would sound right remeber also new build vehicles with greater amounts of access on board as standard increase weight as well. if there is 200 kg heavier just swap out springs / shocks / bushes. That will be the major difference. Also!! check brakes!! Everybody thinks power / speed / handling options AND never think BRAKES!! check and research this first
Cheers
Dave - GS'ing Around (R1200GS m/cycle, Self design/build camper trailer, Goes anywhere)

The differnce there is because yours is IFS and needs the wider chassiss, the solid front axle'd version was, and still is narrower.
Shane