Waeco Problems

Sounds like the typical Waeco wiring problem to me.

The most common problem re volts is the poor cigarette lighter plug on the end of the fridge power cable. Common fix is to use "Hella" plugs or "Anderson" plugs. I had similar issues and 50 amp Anderson plug solve the problem. (The "power" lead to the plug being direct wired off the Aux battery using 6mm cable, suitable fuse installed close to the battery end of course).

where and under what conditons are you measuring the cut off voltage?

the fridge ( like any brand ) will use the voltage seen inside the fridge itself. so if you were to measure the open circuit voltage or measure it at the source ( battery ) it won't include the voltage drop that can occur accross the wiring and DC plug.

If the wiring between the fridge and the battery ( including the plugs and fuses ) has enough resistance then as the load ( current ) increases the voltage seen by the fridge ( and it's low volt cut out ) will be less than the cut out voltage. And then the fridge won't work.

Alternatively there was a problem a couple of years ago with an internal poly fuse inside the waeco that can give similar symptoms.
Also try Waeco direct and they may be able to point you to another repairer who isn't so busy.

i would eliminate the wiring and connectors first, especially if you have a new fridge.

Geoff

I have just done a bit of fussing over my old Waeco. Sometimes you need to play around a bit with the switches. Try the medium and high settings and see what happens. Yes I know moving the opposite way but just try it to humour me. Also try the emergency over-ride that should run the fridge flat out. You will get a better idea of what is or is not happening.

When you used the other batteries did you rig the fridge direct to them or did it go through the vehicles wiring? You do need good wiring. I had my sedan wired with console and boot sockets by an auto electrician. A wiring upgrade is essential.

I have noticed on mine of late it does not like to run on turbo mode unless the vehicle engine is running so now I don't use turbo. Could be worn sockets. Do not really need to find out as it still works on normal setting. The Waeco is used in my car and an Explorer on my trayback. The cruiser needed a dual battery and dedicated wiring before it could be used. This leads to your last question.

"Is this product suitable for the purpose for which it was supplied?". Not being privy to how you bought it cannot be categorical. In my experience the Waeco is a very satisfactory fridge and quite suited to its intended purpose of a recreational fridge that can also work as a freezer. There are better and dearer fridges. Which one for which person is often a matter of personal choice and how hot the intended environment that it will be used in.

Just an aside an slightly off topic but a lot of people read these threads looking for information. Car fridges are a very expensive way of keeping things cool. The cost of the fridge could be a lot less than half the outlay needed to get the system working properly. Dual battery installation can cost well over $1,200. The Explorer has cost me about $3,500 to get operational on the cruiser. A lot of people really would be better with an ice box. When you get the fridge you are then committed to spend the extra to get it working properly. At least an ice box you know what it costs and how much ice costs.

Sorry for getting on the soap box on your message.

Flynnie

The poly fuse issue should be out of the question for your new fridge - they have been fixing that issue under warranty for years now.
Re voltage - you can test your actual voltage at the fridge (or close to) by spiking through the insulation in the fridge's power cable with sharp multimeter probes - just enough to get into the first strands of copper, while the fridge is running - and without damaging the wiring - as others have said, that will probably reveal lower voltage near the fridge than you have considered to date. If so, you could then work back from there to see where it's being lost. The standard Waeco fridge cable has a fair amount of loss in itself - just about anything else is better !

Had the same problem. Re-wired to the back plug with heavy cable - problem gone. Waeco are great fridges but are very fussy about power. Good cable and connectors do the trick. Cheers.

Had a Waeco CF50 for over 7 years. It has been on every trip we've done on 12V and off the transformer using 240V. It has been the bar fridge for parties and a freezer for big fishing trips.

We use Engels and work and they play up all the time.

It has lived in the back of the Prado down the Oodnadata & Birdsville tracks, along some of the back roads of WA, the NT, Fraser Island and never missed a beat. Any problem has been, as suggested, poor battery connection or inadequate wiring to the fridge but never the fridge.

It is the best $$$ I have ever spent on a camping item. Is it fit for its purpose?..ABSOLUTLEY!!!!!

Would I buy another one?...ABSOLUTELY !!!!!!!

"After getting the run around by Waeco and the reseller,"

You should explain to the reseller that under the Trade Practices Act you're entitled to a full refund if the goods aren't of merchantable quality and you want the refund now.