another 1HZ - turbo query

Hi Damien,

My 105 series has the same mechanicals, including similar after market turbo. I would certainly recommend keeping the turbo, but limit the boost to 8 psi and definitely install EGT and boost gauges. Mine has done 270,000 trouble free k's. The gearbox will be fine if treated with respect. Mine tends to be a bit 'clunky' with gear changes when really hot, but it's been like that forever and has never let me down.

The 1HZ is prone to damage through over boosting and over fuelling, hence limiting the boost and keeping an eye on the gauges, especially under load (e.g. towing up hills). If yours was set to 12 psi and has no evident piston damage, maybe they didn't up the fuel delivery when they installed the turbo - who knows? I know I had to 'play' with the fuel settings to get a good compromise between EGT and power output, but when set correctly, it runs very well and should be very reliable.

If you are a conservative driver as you suggest, you should get an easy 80,000 k's and many, many more out of the ol' girl.

Good luck with the rig and I hope you have a fantastic trip (I can feel me turning a light shade of green... :)

Cheers
Gerry

Dont know how people live with these engine without turboing them but...
Ive looked into it lots, before and after installing our turbo and you need a few things IMHO.
If your starting wit ha fresh rebuilt motor and injectors/injector pump, have it tuned by some one who knows what there doing, fit a EGT gauge and drive by it, most workshops set up for 550deg C post turbo but I set mine up 500deg C max and never take it over 450deg C.Fit and I/C, the cooler the EGT's the better in a 1HZ.Keep boost low, I have mine at 10.5PSI on the intake manifold.
There are a few people on LCOOL who had EGT gauges on naturally asspirated 1HZ's and saw temps up to700deg C so in some cases fitting a turbo will lower temps.
So in short, fit a EGT gauge and drive by it.

Damien,

I am not questioning what you are doing with the rebuild of the motor but it seemed a little odd that you are using the original pistons which may be as you say in perfect condition but you need to resleeve the block. Please explain?
As an owner of a 1hz (about to be replaced with a 1hd-ft) my opinion of the 1hz bloody good reliable motor but not exactly infested with horsepower (or kws ). It would seem most of the horror stories are the result of overfueling.

Cheers Pop

OK, another point of view, as an owner of a 3.4 ton coaster bus mobile home with a standard 1HZ non turbo, which we tow a 1.2 ton 16 ft caravan with 5 people on boad, ex school bus with 240 000 kms, the original stock standard 1HZ goes very well, and I don't need any more power, and I find it strange that people need a turbo, I reckon the l/cruiser would fly with much less weight then I am pulling, I easily maintain 100 kph, and she easily accelerates to 120 kph, which I don't try to keep as it is too fast for my setup.
I am not a slow coach, and also drive a 3.2l triton t/d.
I vote go back to standard non turbo, and have no problems.

Hi Damien,

My suggestion would be to check the pre-combustion chambers in the head, the rest of the engine will probably take a bit of abuse.

If this checks out OK, a gearbox rebuild will help, but maybe a change to a H150 or H151 box would be better suited for reliability (see LCOOL forum and SEARCH!), especially if engine checks OK and gearbox is stuffed for a second time...

Check my set-up, it's working well and I've have no problems with the R series box. I may be more mechanically sympathetic than some, but this makes for longer lasting components. My vehicle is far from stock, and is the second vehicle set up this way (this one just clocking 65,000km since I brought it, at 50,000km).

Cheers.

Hey there,

I would stay with non turbo personally. Will go forever without one even if you drive it hard. With a turbo they are unpredictable as far as reliability goes and as far as sustained power goes the gains are marginal. Overheating can be a problem also and who wants to drive around watching a thousands gauges to keep the thing together. I have been down the 'aftermarket turbo' path before and never again. If you need more grunt get a factory turbo engine. I have a 1hz and its fine without a turbo.

Otherwise, good luck!

Dave

Damien,
We recently did a near 40,000k trip in our elderly 1994 HZJ75 troopy which has a non-turbo 1Hz. We started in Sth Korea and ended in the UK. Our meanderings included Tajikistan and some near 5,000m mountain passes. The quite heavily laden troopy had no problem and I was surprised how well the engine pulled at high altitudes.

The vehicle had 335,000km when we started. It has just arrived back in Aus by container from the UK. A good service and fixing of an electrical problem in the steering column and troopy is ready for more big trips. The engine is good for a long way yet.

We have a turbo LC100 1HDFTE which is nice to drive by comparison but for remote travel where reliability is the key, the straight mechanical injection, no electronics 1Hz is a good bet.

Hope your travels are fun. We really enjoyed our travels around South America and trekking in the Andes. So much of Chile and Argentina reminded us of Aus.

cheers
alastair

I was a bit brain dead last night but I should have also mentioned that the turbo is actually a AXT kit for the 1HZ from Oz... I hear these are pretty good

Have you thought of importing a later model motor and box, from the states or oz, freight is reasonably cheap.

Col

while the topic's still alive, last night i thought of a really important question that I haven't seen in the forums before...

given I am rebuilding the motor, and now most likely reinstalling the turbo, is it going to be a terrible idea to run the motor in with the turbo attached?

I guess this is hardly ever an issue since most aftermarket turbos are installed on running motors, but my mechanical common sense tells me that it is a very bad idea.

the other thing to bear in mind is that I only have the AXT exhaust manifold and exhaust setup, so I would have to spend wasted money on at least an exhaust section to run it in without the turbo. So I guess the another option would be to initially set the boost to as low as possible... is this feasible? how low can you go on a ATX garrett T3? my lack of knowledge of the working parts is showing now!

any thoughts?

cheers,
Damien

Damien,
Have just finished in the workshop and remembered to take some pictures.

Our strategy was to keep it simple and easy to change if necessary. It also needed to be strong as the roads we knew were going to be rough.

I first considered twin full length drawers but decided against them because of the weight. What we built has a simple steel tube frame at the rear and middle and then the rest is built from plywood. The tops are also plywood and then carpeted. The double mattress fits exactly on top and does not move around.

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The limiting height was our old (35y) Engel fridge which just keeps working with the occassional mod and fix. The 2 sections to the left each have 2 boxes which slide out. One lot are plastic in which we keep any liquids so that leak and spills are contained. The others are plywood made from offcuts.

On the rhs door is a fold down table made from laminated plywood. Easy to clean and strong.

We also have a shelf above the windscreen which carries a wired in 15A charger, 600W sine wave inverter, speakers, and space for binoculars, sunnies etc.

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On each side there are sections over the wheel arch. The rhs contains recovery gear and vehicle gear, plus torches, tools etc. The left has the bigger cooking gear, plus a compreesor hard mounted over the wheel arch and spares filling up behind that. There is an outlet for the compressor on the rear bar and I kept and air hose under the drivers seat. Great for blowing dust off the vehicle before opening up, as well as inflating tyres - more often other peoples than ours.

There is a section above the boxes which has a tilt lid which has plastic boxes which keep things clean, plus a wash bowl. The middle two compartments have gear which we do not need to access regularly, but is ok to get to with a little effort. We found this works quite well for spares, reserve food and water, hot/cold clothes when the weather changes etc.

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The front sections have tilt lids. In the 2 side sections I put plastic water containers which were plumbed in and filled/drained through a tap just inside the passenger door. This worked well and was away from fiddling fingers. We had a pump and 1 micron filter so we could be sure our supply was clean. I had a tap so that I could isolate half of the 60L storage. Soft things can be put on top of the containers but under the lids out of sight.

Behind the seats we had space to store stuff. On the drivers side is the first aid kit, a tool box and then lots of space for small stuff. On the passenger side we have a duffel bag which fits neatly and we used this for clothes which we used when we needed to be respectable or staying in accomodation. In the middle is a home made centre console, one part open and the rear section with a lid and hidden compartment. Behind that we had a small fridge which kept drinks cold during hot weather. Behind this is a small space in which we kep our wet weather gear plus stuff we wanted out of sight.

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On the rear we had a roll out Gunyah awning which was great for hot and wet conditions. It is quick to deploy and put away. All the poles are contained in the bag. We nearly didn't put this on but are very glad we did.

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I made a simple roof rack which carries 2 spares, 2 Maxtrax, long handle shovel and the dunny spade. On the other side is a high lift jack. There is plenty of space to throw up firewood when necessary.

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It basically all worked well once we got used to where everything was which didn't take long.

What would we change? Probably have a stainless steel water tank made which I can squeeze in under the body. I had thought of doing this before but the cost of $1000 - $2000 vs $60 for the 4 plastic containers was the decider plus I just did not have the time to work out the weird shape to fit underneath. We have 2 fuel tanks and a compressed air reservoir already so there is not much space left.

Happy to follow up if you have any questions. It was fun doing it.

cheers
alastair