another 1HZ - turbo query

Submitted: Friday, Feb 12, 2010 at 10:18
ThreadID: 75968 Views:10225 Replies:11 FollowUps:22
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Hi all,

I'm an expat living in Peru, and the other day I finally got my hands on a HZJ78... they are almost as rare here as in the states/canada. I got it cheap because it needs an engine/gearbox rebuilt, but three years of searching means you take what you can get.

OK, to the point... I am still undecided as to whether I refit the turbo it came with after the rebuild. I have read countless forum threads and technical sheets, and I am leaning towards putting on the turbo at 8psi and installing EGT and boost gauges to keep an eye on it, but I am not yet completely convinced I am doing the right thing because I am converting this baby into a camper to tour South and North America (maybe do up to 80,000 kms in it) with my wife, and while the extra power will be welcome at altitude and in general (I had a HZJ75 tourer years ago back in Oz and remember the old slowlane days!), the last thing I want is unreliability, especially in South America... so any comments on experiences with similar turbo/gearbox setups would be very welcome.

the history... HZJ78 2002 with 1HZ motor and R151 box imported new to Peru by Thiess... immediately had a Garrett T3 turbo (water and oil cooled) installed @8psi with 2.5" exhaust, work done by local Toyota for the purpose of working in the Andes (+4000 m above sea level). The next owner, one year later and to date (a peruvian construction company), thrashed it in a mine... it had the boost raised to at least 12psi, apparently very little maintence, and when i finally got my hands on it with 220,000 km, the cylinder pressures ranged from 250 to 400psi and the box had been completely rebuilt but two gear shifts and gear shift forks had been modified/damaged which I am currently replacing. I have heard this box is crap for pushing a landcruiser with a 1HZ, and that problems have arisen when turboed.

I am rebuilding the motor with the original pistons (which were in perfect nic) and using all original replacement parts, and sleeving the cylinder block instead of reboring. The gearbox is in good nic, except for the abovementioned parts which i am importing from Toyota... it was recently overhauled and had the syncs changed out (they obviously couldn't find the broken gear shifts hence the dodgy modification of another and consequent damage to the other and the forks they run on).

I'm a pretty conservative driver, but I think my greatest concern is possible problems with the gearbox, although if I can be 'guaranteed' a troublefree 80,000km I'll be happy with the extra power/torque.


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Reply By: GerryP - Friday, Feb 12, 2010 at 11:10

Friday, Feb 12, 2010 at 11:10
Hi Damien,

My 105 series has the same mechanicals, including similar after market turbo. I would certainly recommend keeping the turbo, but limit the boost to 8 psi and definitely install EGT and boost gauges. Mine has done 270,000 trouble free k's. The gearbox will be fine if treated with respect. Mine tends to be a bit 'clunky' with gear changes when really hot, but it's been like that forever and has never let me down.

The 1HZ is prone to damage through over boosting and over fuelling, hence limiting the boost and keeping an eye on the gauges, especially under load (e.g. towing up hills). If yours was set to 12 psi and has no evident piston damage, maybe they didn't up the fuel delivery when they installed the turbo - who knows? I know I had to 'play' with the fuel settings to get a good compromise between EGT and power output, but when set correctly, it runs very well and should be very reliable.

If you are a conservative driver as you suggest, you should get an easy 80,000 k's and many, many more out of the ol' girl.

Good luck with the rig and I hope you have a fantastic trip (I can feel me turning a light shade of green... :)

AnswerID: 403893

Follow Up By: DamienC - Friday, Feb 12, 2010 at 16:10

Friday, Feb 12, 2010 at 16:10
thanks Gerry,

that's quite reassuring about the gearbox, and you're getting me right near the line for deciding to reinstall the turbo...

yes i don't really know if they upped the fuel... I had these plans of doing tests on the thing before starting the surgery to get a better idea of what had gone wrong, but when i took it into my workshop, they just started dismantling to get on with the rebuild ASAP. what i do know is that while the turbo obviously advanced its demise, there was obviously a complete lack of servicing... the air filter (which hadn't been changed since 2006 - written on the filter!), had been bypassed and it was sucking air from below the turbo... amazing to see how some mining companies treat their vehicles.

FollowupID: 673541

Reply By: Member - Nick (TAS) - Friday, Feb 12, 2010 at 19:02

Friday, Feb 12, 2010 at 19:02
Dont know how people live with these engine without turboing them but...
Ive looked into it lots, before and after installing our turbo and you need a few things IMHO.
If your starting wit ha fresh rebuilt motor and injectors/injector pump, have it tuned by some one who knows what there doing, fit a EGT gauge and drive by it, most workshops set up for 550deg C post turbo but I set mine up 500deg C max and never take it over 450deg C.Fit and I/C, the cooler the EGT's the better in a 1HZ.Keep boost low, I have mine at 10.5PSI on the intake manifold.
There are a few people on LCOOL who had EGT gauges on naturally asspirated 1HZ's and saw temps up to700deg C so in some cases fitting a turbo will lower temps.
So in short, fit a EGT gauge and drive by it.
AnswerID: 403943

Follow Up By: DamienC - Saturday, Feb 13, 2010 at 07:40

Saturday, Feb 13, 2010 at 07:40
gday nick, thanks for the encouragement with the turbo... I think my workshop here should be able to tune it pretty well, but could you tell me how exactly you should tune to a certain max EGT? I trust my workshop, but well, not like I trust my wife!, so it'd be good to know such things before I go asking. Cheers, Damien
FollowupID: 673635

Reply By: pop2jocem - Friday, Feb 12, 2010 at 21:04

Friday, Feb 12, 2010 at 21:04

I am not questioning what you are doing with the rebuild of the motor but it seemed a little odd that you are using the original pistons which may be as you say in perfect condition but you need to resleeve the block. Please explain?
As an owner of a 1hz (about to be replaced with a 1hd-ft) my opinion of the 1hz bloody good reliable motor but not exactly infested with horsepower (or kws ). It would seem most of the horror stories are the result of overfueling.

Cheers Pop
AnswerID: 403955

Follow Up By: DamienC - Saturday, Feb 13, 2010 at 02:16

Saturday, Feb 13, 2010 at 02:16
HI pop,

yes you're right that its a bit strange... while I'm no engine machinist, I was quite suprised when we opened her up and found the cylinders destroyed and the pistons in perfect nic... in fact we had to file down 5 of the cylinders on the spot to get the pistons out.

In the end I put in down to a very early death through shocking (absent) mantenence. When I bought the thing there was no fuel cap (and had accumulated dust inside the fuel filler intake), the fuel filters were stuffed, it was sucking in air above the air filter and the radiator overflow had been disconnected, so i guess a hell of a lot of stuff got in there to destoy it, while the 220,000 kms is very young for a 1HZ death, which is probably why the pistons were still so good.

The extra boost (increased from the original 8psi) is sort of assumed as we didn't test it before I dismantled it, but one of the techs familiar with the original adaption said that the wastegate had been modified to maintain higher boost, but we are just guessing... but it certainly doesn't seem like that was the principal cause... everything else was good including the valves and head chambers.

FollowupID: 673625

Follow Up By: pop2jocem - Saturday, Feb 13, 2010 at 19:52

Saturday, Feb 13, 2010 at 19:52
Hi Damien,

Sounds like lack of maintenance by the previous owner(s) may have destroyed the innards with a large dose of dust and they may have fitted new pistons and rings into the not so good bores. If you refit the turbo may I suggest you have a good look (if you haven't already) at the compressor end turbo blades. If enough dust has been ingested the passage of this material may have worn the blades to the point where one or more may fail. If this happens goodbye turbo and possibly pump turbo bits into the cylinders. Even if the blades are worn evenly the efficiency may be compromised to the point where the shaft speed increases dramatically as the waste gate tries to raise boost pressure but can't. Too high a turbine speed could also result in a catastrophic turbo failure. A quick check of the amount of shaft play radially and axially in the bearings wouldn't hurt. Sorry if it sounds like I'm trying to rain on your parade I'm not but you said you needed reliability.

Have a safe and enjoyable trip, I'm only a little

Cheers Pop
FollowupID: 673744

Follow Up By: DamienC - Saturday, Feb 13, 2010 at 23:24

Saturday, Feb 13, 2010 at 23:24
yeah, no worries Pop, great advice and no rain on my parade... I am here to get sound advice and the more in depth the better. I have already taken the turbo to a good turbo shop to have it checked out... it was the first thing i did before considering the refit... and it turned out to be in good shape. I got it serviced and balanced and she's raring to go.

the diagnosis on the bore could be a good one, but its the first time it crossed my mind... we didn't see signs that she'd been opened up before, but to be honest neither were we expecting that she had been at 220,000km, so we weren't searching hard for those sorts of clues. Having been with a big construction/mining firm with too much cash, they could have done that, although everything we pulled out was toyota original, unlike the completely dodgy brothers adapted parts we found in the gearbox... i think if they could have been bothered to import original 1HZ pistons, they probably wouldn't have skinted on a single gear shifter that ended up damaging the rest of them. I thought the rings were shot but now that i think about it I'm a bit hazy so I'll check that out next time I'm down at the shop.

FollowupID: 673775

Reply By: puttputt - Friday, Feb 12, 2010 at 22:41

Friday, Feb 12, 2010 at 22:41
OK, another point of view, as an owner of a 3.4 ton coaster bus mobile home with a standard 1HZ non turbo, which we tow a 1.2 ton 16 ft caravan with 5 people on boad, ex school bus with 240 000 kms, the original stock standard 1HZ goes very well, and I don't need any more power, and I find it strange that people need a turbo, I reckon the l/cruiser would fly with much less weight then I am pulling, I easily maintain 100 kph, and she easily accelerates to 120 kph, which I don't try to keep as it is too fast for my setup.
I am not a slow coach, and also drive a 3.2l triton t/d.
I vote go back to standard non turbo, and have no problems.
AnswerID: 403976

Follow Up By: Peter Horne [Krakka] - Saturday, Feb 13, 2010 at 06:52

Saturday, Feb 13, 2010 at 06:52
Geez, you must have a different 1HZ to me then. And mine is in a Landcruiser!
FollowupID: 673631

Follow Up By: puttputt - Saturday, Feb 13, 2010 at 10:58

Saturday, Feb 13, 2010 at 10:58
And my bus is the long wheelbase and is as aero dymanic as a brick dunny.

But if I was going the turbo route, the first thing I would do is drasticaly reduce the compression ratio, as the very high diesel compression of 1:22 or there abouts would have to cause problems when turboing, typically a turbo charged diesel would be about 1:16, if I have read correctly.
FollowupID: 673667

Follow Up By: Peter Horne [Krakka] - Saturday, Feb 13, 2010 at 12:54

Saturday, Feb 13, 2010 at 12:54
Yeah, that's an interesting point.
FollowupID: 673684

Follow Up By: DamienC - Saturday, Feb 13, 2010 at 23:28

Saturday, Feb 13, 2010 at 23:28
just out of interest... what sort of gearbox do they throw in those things to get you up to 120km/h with ease... after previously having a 3 ton hzj75 with 1hz, its sort of hard to believe!
FollowupID: 673776

Follow Up By: Davo_60 - Sunday, Feb 14, 2010 at 11:39

Sunday, Feb 14, 2010 at 11:39
There must be some variation in these engines, as my stock 1zh (80 series) will eventually wind out to 155km/h (indicated, just under 150 real). Slow overtaking though.
FollowupID: 673825

Follow Up By: puttputt - Monday, Feb 15, 2010 at 22:33

Monday, Feb 15, 2010 at 22:33
The only difference I know is that my bus is 24 volts, BTW, I am talking GPS speed, not speedo, when I first started looking at a bus, I considered swopping out motor for the I hd turbo, or whatever it is, but know I feel that it would be overkill, and in fact last month picked up a brand new ! hz going cheap, as I want to build it up to do the loop.

I am sure my bus would exceed 140 kph, but haven't tried.
The bus has a trucklike gearbox, different to the troopie, Ist gear is to the left and down, reverse is to the left and up. Probably lower gear ratios, I get between 13 and 14 litres /100kms, pretty impressive considering I drive it like it is a car.

When I first bought it, I took it on a camping trip with the caravan in tow, and I did get the feeling it went like it had a turbo, and on arrival I opened the engine bay to see if there was a turbo attached, but did not find one.
FollowupID: 674055

Reply By: Rossco td105 - Friday, Feb 12, 2010 at 23:57

Friday, Feb 12, 2010 at 23:57
Hi Damien,

My suggestion would be to check the pre-combustion chambers in the head, the rest of the engine will probably take a bit of abuse.

If this checks out OK, a gearbox rebuild will help, but maybe a change to a H150 or H151 box would be better suited for reliability (see LCOOL forum and SEARCH!), especially if engine checks OK and gearbox is stuffed for a second time...

Check my set-up, it's working well and I've have no problems with the R series box. I may be more mechanically sympathetic than some, but this makes for longer lasting components. My vehicle is far from stock, and is the second vehicle set up this way (this one just clocking 65,000km since I brought it, at 50,000km).

AnswerID: 403983

Follow Up By: DamienC - Saturday, Feb 13, 2010 at 02:46

Saturday, Feb 13, 2010 at 02:46
gday rosco,

the chambers are good, in fact everything bar the cylinder and rings is good.

yeah it would be nice to be able to ponder a Hbox changeover, which i know these are tougher units, but being here in Peru, things are often hard to come by, and people usually don't sell things unless they are bust, so I'm definitely sticking with the same gearbox to avoid headaches.

yep, seen lots of negative posts about the R151 in LCs... hence my concern... but I am aware that people with negative stories for anything are usually much more likely to post about it, so I guess I am hoping to get more reassuring comments like yours that the R151 isn't a complete dud if driven well.

FollowupID: 673627

Reply By: Davo_60 - Friday, Feb 12, 2010 at 23:57

Friday, Feb 12, 2010 at 23:57
Hey there,

I would stay with non turbo personally. Will go forever without one even if you drive it hard. With a turbo they are unpredictable as far as reliability goes and as far as sustained power goes the gains are marginal. Overheating can be a problem also and who wants to drive around watching a thousands gauges to keep the thing together. I have been down the 'aftermarket turbo' path before and never again. If you need more grunt get a factory turbo engine. I have a 1hz and its fine without a turbo.

Otherwise, good luck!

AnswerID: 403984

Follow Up By: DamienC - Saturday, Feb 13, 2010 at 03:14

Saturday, Feb 13, 2010 at 03:14
gday Dave,

I hear you mate, my first troopie was 1HZ standard and while often tediously slow on rises, it served 380,000km falithfully (200,000 mine) before I bared it and Australia farewell...

on the other hand, 9 years later I am still living in Peru, where even the aircraft require a turbo to cross the Andes, and I can tell you, going from sea level to 5000 m over a windy 120km on a one lane highway laden with trucks and buses can be an extremely slow and/or dangerous affair if you have little to no overtaking power on rises, not to mention the power losses you get above 3500m due to lack the of oxygen. I have done this trip hundreds of times for work, and the difference between natural and turboed vehicles can be 5 stressful hours and 3 pleasurable ones!

so with that in mind, I guess i am in the process of trying to convince myself that the turbo I already have will be a good idea and that everything will be OK in the medium term! If I had the cash/possibility for a 1HD-T replacement I would do it, but the fact is here in Peru I'd have to import the whole lot kit and kuboodle from OZ/Japan, which would put about 3-4k ontop of whatever I could pickup the motor/transmission for... LC's are not very common here like in OZ... in fact in most south american countries (except venezuela/columbia), the entire 70 series was never even offered through Toyota itself, so the only examples here are ex red cross and ex mining company private imports... for eg. I have come to discover that there are only about 80 1HZ troopies (hzj75/78) in the whole country.

makes things tough here... took me three years to get my hands on one! I'm starting to ramble now.

FollowupID: 673628

Follow Up By: Davo_60 - Saturday, Feb 13, 2010 at 20:52

Saturday, Feb 13, 2010 at 20:52
I guess a turbo would be a good compensation for high altitude (as per some piston engine aircraft). I can't quite get my head around it, but I guess theory a turbo engine should run just as well at altitude as at sea level, whereas a n/a engine would run richer and less efficient at altitude?

The main problem is heat, either from overboosting (due to the small precombustioin chamber inlets) and overfuelling as has been covered already. I expect it is cooler there so perhaps overheating is not such an issue also.

Anyway, sounds like an adventure and I'm sure it will hang together for the timeframe you require.


FollowupID: 673752

Follow Up By: DamienC - Sunday, Feb 14, 2010 at 00:09

Sunday, Feb 14, 2010 at 00:09
to be honest I don't know if the thinner air with lower oxygen converts into lower boost pressures when at altitude, but regardless, even with slightly lower boosts than normal, the turbo motor must loose much less power proportionally in comparison to the naturally aspirated one... I will find out exactly, with some of the highest roads in the world, the blokes here are experts on the matter. but food for thought, %O2 @ sea level is almost 21%, that drops to 12.8% @ 4000m, while many roads here are still found at 5000m with 11.3%... that's like half your combustion power gone for a n/a motor.

i guess the question is does the turbo compressor still produce say 8psi regardless of the barometric pressure... I imagine not by itself, but then wastegates and boost compensators might help maintain the boost depending on how they are setup... this is the first time I have owned a turbo so its sort of new to me.
FollowupID: 673781

Reply By: Member - Alastair D (NSW) - Saturday, Feb 13, 2010 at 07:35

Saturday, Feb 13, 2010 at 07:35
We recently did a near 40,000k trip in our elderly 1994 HZJ75 troopy which has a non-turbo 1Hz. We started in Sth Korea and ended in the UK. Our meanderings included Tajikistan and some near 5,000m mountain passes. The quite heavily laden troopy had no problem and I was surprised how well the engine pulled at high altitudes.

The vehicle had 335,000km when we started. It has just arrived back in Aus by container from the UK. A good service and fixing of an electrical problem in the steering column and troopy is ready for more big trips. The engine is good for a long way yet.

We have a turbo LC100 1HDFTE which is nice to drive by comparison but for remote travel where reliability is the key, the straight mechanical injection, no electronics 1Hz is a good bet.

Hope your travels are fun. We really enjoyed our travels around South America and trekking in the Andes. So much of Chile and Argentina reminded us of Aus.

AnswerID: 403997

Follow Up By: DamienC - Saturday, Feb 13, 2010 at 11:44

Saturday, Feb 13, 2010 at 11:44
wow, sounds like a great trip, something to aspire to after our americas run which should be a walk in the park in comparison... did you also drive South America? might be cool to get some tips on all the different customs legalities.

your vehicle sounds like my old girl, and that reliability is why i have waited so long to get one instead of adapting another type of vehicle. do you have any photos of your interior? I have pretty much decided on the design but I am always open to suggestions... send me a message if you have some
FollowupID: 673677

Follow Up By: Member - Alastair D (NSW) - Sunday, Feb 14, 2010 at 07:28

Sunday, Feb 14, 2010 at 07:28
Our travels in Sth America were done in 2 trips. One around Argentina and Chile before taking a ship to Antartica from Ushuaia. The second trip started covered western Chile, Peru, then down into the Amazon and ending up in Sao Paulo in Brazil. We used local vehicles and trains so I am afraid we have no help re the customs issue. My understanding is that if you obtain a carnet it makes things a lot easier but it is quite a while since I researched that trip.

Will take a few pictures of the troopy insides and post them later. We fitted ours out from scratch ourselves and got it mostly right. Will make some suggestions when I post the pictures. My suggestion is that you fit the vehicleout and then do a few short trips to try things out before heading off for good. Much easier to do mods at home rather than on the road.

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Follow Up By: DamienC - Sunday, Feb 14, 2010 at 07:58

Sunday, Feb 14, 2010 at 07:58
hi alastair,

yeah great minds think alike hahaha... I'd planned to fit it out over the next few months from my home in Lima, and then take advantage of the peruvian winter dry season do smaller trips within the country for a few months before eventually leaving and heading south for the summer dry season in southern chile/argentina.

I have a Peruvian carnet, but have yet to really investigate the situation for temporary vehicle entry for all the countries we plan on visiting. I'll probably get onto the expedition forums for that task.

look forward to seeing the interior pics.

FollowupID: 673796

Follow Up By: Member - Alastair D (NSW) - Sunday, Feb 14, 2010 at 08:46

Sunday, Feb 14, 2010 at 08:46
Off to the workshop now to work on the troopy. Will take the pictures sometime today.

The following link to Horizon's Unlimited is very useful. As you may know it is the site for bike travellers and so many are travelling in your part of the world. It is a great source of info and the members are happy to answer questions. The good thing is that you mostly get answers from people who have actually done it not just guessing.

FollowupID: 673802

Reply By: DamienC - Saturday, Feb 13, 2010 at 11:47

Saturday, Feb 13, 2010 at 11:47
I was a bit brain dead last night but I should have also mentioned that the turbo is actually a AXT kit for the 1HZ from Oz... I hear these are pretty good
AnswerID: 404028

Reply By: kiwicol1 - Saturday, Feb 13, 2010 at 18:15

Saturday, Feb 13, 2010 at 18:15
Have you thought of importing a later model motor and box, from the states or oz, freight is reasonably cheap.

AnswerID: 404069

Follow Up By: DamienC - Saturday, Feb 13, 2010 at 23:35

Saturday, Feb 13, 2010 at 23:35
thought about it very briefly but got quotes of 2k from oz and couldn't find a 1hd-t and transmission in the states in a hurry... although i know freight from there is much cheaper... it just seemed like a lot of time and possible headaches and the boys at my workshop weren't overly keen. D
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Follow Up By: DamienC - Saturday, Feb 13, 2010 at 23:39

Saturday, Feb 13, 2010 at 23:39
oh yeah, and 30% import duty on value+freight in Peru is a real downer!
FollowupID: 673780

Reply By: DamienC - Sunday, Feb 14, 2010 at 00:22

Sunday, Feb 14, 2010 at 00:22
while the topic's still alive, last night i thought of a really important question that I haven't seen in the forums before...

given I am rebuilding the motor, and now most likely reinstalling the turbo, is it going to be a terrible idea to run the motor in with the turbo attached?

I guess this is hardly ever an issue since most aftermarket turbos are installed on running motors, but my mechanical common sense tells me that it is a very bad idea.

the other thing to bear in mind is that I only have the AXT exhaust manifold and exhaust setup, so I would have to spend wasted money on at least an exhaust section to run it in without the turbo. So I guess the another option would be to initially set the boost to as low as possible... is this feasible? how low can you go on a ATX garrett T3? my lack of knowledge of the working parts is showing now!

any thoughts?

AnswerID: 404113

Reply By: Member - Alastair D (NSW) - Sunday, Feb 14, 2010 at 14:09

Sunday, Feb 14, 2010 at 14:09
Have just finished in the workshop and remembered to take some pictures.

Our strategy was to keep it simple and easy to change if necessary. It also needed to be strong as the roads we knew were going to be rough.

I first considered twin full length drawers but decided against them because of the weight. What we built has a simple steel tube frame at the rear and middle and then the rest is built from plywood. The tops are also plywood and then carpeted. The double mattress fits exactly on top and does not move around.

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The limiting height was our old (35y) Engel fridge which just keeps working with the occassional mod and fix. The 2 sections to the left each have 2 boxes which slide out. One lot are plastic in which we keep any liquids so that leak and spills are contained. The others are plywood made from offcuts.

On the rhs door is a fold down table made from laminated plywood. Easy to clean and strong.

We also have a shelf above the windscreen which carries a wired in 15A charger, 600W sine wave inverter, speakers, and space for binoculars, sunnies etc.

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On each side there are sections over the wheel arch. The rhs contains recovery gear and vehicle gear, plus torches, tools etc. The left has the bigger cooking gear, plus a compreesor hard mounted over the wheel arch and spares filling up behind that. There is an outlet for the compressor on the rear bar and I kept and air hose under the drivers seat. Great for blowing dust off the vehicle before opening up, as well as inflating tyres - more often other peoples than ours.

There is a section above the boxes which has a tilt lid which has plastic boxes which keep things clean, plus a wash bowl. The middle two compartments have gear which we do not need to access regularly, but is ok to get to with a little effort. We found this works quite well for spares, reserve food and water, hot/cold clothes when the weather changes etc.

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The front sections have tilt lids. In the 2 side sections I put plastic water containers which were plumbed in and filled/drained through a tap just inside the passenger door. This worked well and was away from fiddling fingers. We had a pump and 1 micron filter so we could be sure our supply was clean. I had a tap so that I could isolate half of the 60L storage. Soft things can be put on top of the containers but under the lids out of sight.

Behind the seats we had space to store stuff. On the drivers side is the first aid kit, a tool box and then lots of space for small stuff. On the passenger side we have a duffel bag which fits neatly and we used this for clothes which we used when we needed to be respectable or staying in accomodation. In the middle is a home made centre console, one part open and the rear section with a lid and hidden compartment. Behind that we had a small fridge which kept drinks cold during hot weather. Behind this is a small space in which we kep our wet weather gear plus stuff we wanted out of sight.

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On the rear we had a roll out Gunyah awning which was great for hot and wet conditions. It is quick to deploy and put away. All the poles are contained in the bag. We nearly didn't put this on but are very glad we did.

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I made a simple roof rack which carries 2 spares, 2 Maxtrax, long handle shovel and the dunny spade. On the other side is a high lift jack. There is plenty of space to throw up firewood when necessary.

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It basically all worked well once we got used to where everything was which didn't take long.

What would we change? Probably have a stainless steel water tank made which I can squeeze in under the body. I had thought of doing this before but the cost of $1000 - $2000 vs $60 for the 4 plastic containers was the decider plus I just did not have the time to work out the weird shape to fit underneath. We have 2 fuel tanks and a compressed air reservoir already so there is not much space left.

Happy to follow up if you have any questions. It was fun doing it.

AnswerID: 404164

Follow Up By: DamienC - Sunday, Feb 14, 2010 at 15:31

Sunday, Feb 14, 2010 at 15:31
wow, thats a great description mate, many thanks... lots of food for thought... I'll be reading it a few times i can tell. I'll let you know how I go, but I can already see a few ideas to copy there! cheers, Damien
FollowupID: 673881

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