Touchup paint preparation for Troopy

Hi there. I've become a bit rusty (??), so I may not have the latest products in mind (which is why I dd not respond earlier). I use Wattyl Killrust RustEater and have used Ferropro products if they still exist (I remember one that really fizzed and converted the rust into a stable layer - phosphoric acid based, I think).
So, like Allan, I have use rust converting products with success. The danger is that the little area of visible rust (where the paint has been chipped away) may be surrounded by an area of rust BETWEEN the surrounding paint and the surrounding metal (ie a ring of hidden rust). Rust converting stuff tends not to penetrate this area.
Obviously, if you leave a ring or rust around the repair, you'll have a nice new crop of rust before long!!
So the options are:
1. hope that treating the visible rust with a converter, then a primer then undercoat then top coat will do the job.
2. rub away (emery or a Dremel wire brush, or a scraper) the paint around the visible rust spots, then treat with the rust converter, then filler and the other coats.
I have found that option 2 often requires a bit of shallow filling (either a spray filler [thick primer in a can] or bog), if the repair is to be invisible.
In my experience, a few areas of serious repair (e.g. areas of stone chipping damage) may need the strip, treat, fill and repaint treatment, while lesser areas an be handled with just the 'spot' treatment.

,,,,,, Or you can cheat! Use RustEater applied with a cotton bud to the stone chips etc., and then paint using a factory-matched touch up brush type paint.

Allan, Chris - Thank you for your insights. The rust is only a cosmetic problem at this stage, but I don't want to let it develop beyond that. Areas that have been blasted by flying gravel don't look at all good after exposure to salt air! Rust conversion or passivation is just what I need prior to touching up. I don't have any advanced flaky rust.

Thank you again

Cheers

John

Yes, passivation is the key, if you are trying to control nasty spreading rust. The Ferropro stuff seemed good at passivation, not just coating the rust. I haven't a clue at what's on the market these days. We're all aware of the cost of paint these days, and thus the cost of a dud attempt at repair.
There used to be a choice between the treatments of "remove all flaking rust then apply" and the "apply over all existing rust". All I can say is that partial removal of rust is, well, a big call!!!

Hi Mike. Actually we're planning to stay home this year, but now I have an additional incentive to stay away!! I'd be thinking of a wire brush treatment along the gutters, then a good coat of RustEater, then a really good primer and undercoat before the top coats.
Kind regards

Hi John, Now that was very interesting and did not ring true to me so I phoned Xtroll Global P/L here in Geebung Q and spoke with the General Manager.

1. If by "the big B hardware store" you are referring to Bunnings then no they do not stock Xtroll products as Xtroll "will not yield to Bunning's onerous purchasing and credit demands".

2. It is not American. It was developed and manufactured here in Australia by a family company.

3. It is not banned anywhere. (Except maybe by Bunnings. LOL)

4. There is no current distributor in Canberra. The nearest distributor is in Bega.

5. It is not phosphoric acid based.

I'm sorry you cannot easily obtain the product. I had to hunt a little last time I wanted some.
For anyone interested Xtroll's phone number is 07 3865 1077 and their website is here.

Hi Allan,

As you say - very interesting!

I thought it prudent not to be too specific with names, but you've seen through it. (Surprise!!) Your findings are far more credible than the drivel I was fed by the apparently well informed (and mature aged) assistant.


It's also very interesting that the Extroll product is not phosphoric acid based. That stuff is nasty, but commonly used for rust passivation. Certainly something I'd prefer to avoid.

Thank you for your interest and research. Pity it's so far to Bega.

Cheers,

John