FJ60

Submitted: Sunday, Oct 19, 2003 at 23:44
ThreadID: 7937 Views:4574 Replies:4 FollowUps:4
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Hello there,
A few questions in regards to my first steps into 4x4 modifications...
I have recently purchased an 84 FJ60 (160k) that is currently running a full OME setup, TJM bar, 31x10.5x15 duelers, plus tints and a stereo that I have added. The car can only be described as immaculate and is a true credit to its previous owner.
However, being a young male I have decided that its time for some more 'upgrading' and first on the wishlist is a set of 35 MTR's coupled with a 3 inch body lift, I have received conflicting advice on the issues of body lifts and would like to hear both the positives along with the negatives of the procedure. The engine and driveline appear to be in excellent condition however I am concerned that the larger tyres will sap a lot of the 2F's power. Does any one run a stock 2F with 35's? What are some ways to effectively increase power (Extractors, air filter, exhaust etc)? The car will be used extensively off road but needs to remain driveable on the highway, so lowering ratios isn't really an option.
Thanks in advance for any advice and I look forward to hearing from you.
Simon.
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Reply By: ross - Monday, Oct 20, 2003 at 09:03

Monday, Oct 20, 2003 at 09:03
There is not much you can do to make these go faster.They are based on a 1953 chev truck motor so they are close to their limit.They dont like going over 3000 rpm so adding extractors,aftermarket air filter,which only start to work at higher revs, is a little pointless. A 3 in body lift and 35in tyres is heading into competition territory. The body lift would require the steering , brakes and drivetrain to be modified.You are right the tryes would change your effective gear ratios.You would have to change diff ratios or transfer box to be able to use them.
My tip is to do a 2inch suspension lift with 33 inch tyres which should cost around $3000 .It will look good,perform well and leave some money for maintenance.
If that hasnt put you off,a small block chev,350 or 383 ci conversion would be best if you want to go ahead with the body lift and 35s.
Outer limits 4x4 landcruiser forum is the best place to ask advice on these mods.
AnswerID: 34432

Follow Up By: Mudfj60 - Monday, Oct 20, 2003 at 12:51

Monday, Oct 20, 2003 at 12:51
Ross,
Thanks for the information. I failed to mention that the OME setup has already given me around 2-3 inches and as much as I want to stay away from body lifts, I can see no other alternative if I want to run 35's. I realise that I would need to modify the steering, and by brakes I assume that you mean extending the lines but what drivetrain modifications would be needed (or do you mean changing ratios for the larger tyres)? Maybe I should throw some 33's on as is and save some money, i'll think about it. As for the engine, i'm really considering a conversion but I am in two minds about it as it would seem a waste to dump a reliable low k's 2F that will probably go for another 20 years.
Simon
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FollowupID: 24803

Reply By: mudgutz - Monday, Oct 20, 2003 at 13:52

Monday, Oct 20, 2003 at 13:52
yeah 3 inch body lift.......nah.....to hard too much bucks.......go the 2 inch suspension lift and 33 inches as suggested.......you can do a 1/2 inch body lift by just putting in spacers cut from steel plate without changing steering brakes etc etc
thats what im running and it was cheap and works pretty good the 31s you have are a smaller than the stock tyre so the 33s will bring it back closer to what was original......my 75 with a 3F and 33s does 110km/h at 2300 rpms......comfortable for old petrol tojos.......and forget the all terrian tyres go the muddies makes a big difference if your gonna play in the bush as you say......hope you like noise and petrol stations get used to em both ...all petrol tojos chew the juice but the advantage in power over old diesels tojos eg. the 2H diesel offered in mine at about 70kw versus the 3f petrol at 110kw is big and the old diesels dont like turbos much so i couldnt see why i would pay more for and old diesel snail...110kw is still more than the modern 1hz diesel no turbo..offered to date at about 94 kw as long as you dont mind the fuel costs and dont plan to swim the truck say deeper than 1metre or so it should be a good toy.........mind you if i was setting up a long distance tourer...and not a weekend bush toy the 78 series td rv would be my chioce for power, fuel economy and reliability..... anyone want to lend me 65 grand????? or if there,s a nice tojo dealer out there who wants to donate one
give me a call......ps i will take any colour
AnswerID: 34454

Follow Up By: Mudfj60 - Monday, Oct 20, 2003 at 15:35

Monday, Oct 20, 2003 at 15:35
Mmm, good suggestions, I would like to lower the RPM's a bit. I thought the 60 came out with 29 inch tyres from stock? The body lift is costing me about $600 from a place called TopDog 4wd in Riverstone(NSW), you guys heard of them? Really good guys from what I have seen, and I can get the 35 inch Wranglers for about $260 a pop.
Whats this about the MTR's being all terrain tyres? Or ar you referring to Swampers, Claws etc when you say 'Muddies'? I have to be realistic with the choice of rubber as I still want to do a bit of touring from Sydney to Brisbane and beyond.
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FollowupID: 24819

Reply By: mudgutz - Monday, Oct 20, 2003 at 21:29

Monday, Oct 20, 2003 at 21:29
yeah mate the mtr,s are a mud terrain....i was just saying dont bother with all terrians
yeah ive heard of topdog.......and the stock rubber that the sixty came out with is equivalent to about 32 and 1/2 inches
AnswerID: 34522

Reply By: David Deece - Thursday, Nov 13, 2003 at 21:56

Thursday, Nov 13, 2003 at 21:56
I have an FJ60 Pretty similar minus the immaculate ie OME shocks and springs
on 10.5 by 31's with a 2f , 5 speed and 4.1 diffs. It has a set of genie extractors
on and comes onto the pipe without flutter (read no dead spot) at about 2000 rpm and pulls strongly all the way to 4000. Don't think it helps the MPG though as I get 24 - 27 L to the hundred witha lead right foot in town

Am going through the process of sorting tyres out for the truck
Originally wanted 33 by 10.5in (supposedly good combination) and could keep the 7in wheels but everyone says go to 12.5's on 8's

My logic says that a 35in wheel has a 2in bigger radius so therefore if a 31in fits stock then you only need a 2in lift to get the height clearance under the guard
Turning clearance might still be an issue though

I have made 35mm lift blocks in al. will be throwing them in this weekend 16/17 Nov Everyone says its easy but fiddley.

Figure to try 35in tyres see if they fit with Ome lifted spings and 35mm body lift
will let you know

AnswerID: 37241

Follow Up By: Mudfj60 - Friday, Nov 14, 2003 at 01:41

Friday, Nov 14, 2003 at 01:41
David,
Thanks for the reply and good luck with the lift. I'm still keen to chuck on 35's but it seems that everyone I speak with has something negative to say about body lifts. I would do it myself but I have no experience with this type of thing and I would probably end up snapping something important whilst barreling down the highway! It would be great to hear of the results so keep me posted.
Simon.
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FollowupID: 26991

Follow Up By: David Deece - Saturday, Nov 15, 2003 at 10:43

Saturday, Nov 15, 2003 at 10:43
Gday Mudfj60 fitted the lift on friday, Took about 4 hrs (read f***'d around a lot scratching head and drinking coffee) couuld be done in 2hrs if trying.

In my case as I only lifted 35mm there is/was no mods other than the radiator cowl.(I took it off will sort/mod it later)

I made 12 55 diam by 35mm high all. blocks with a 10.5mm hole
and bought 12 by 150mm bolts
But at the lift I did optimum bolts would have been
4 by 130mm
4 by 160mm
and the 4 longest bolts from centre mounts reused at front and back
(these 4 would be long enough for 50mm lift but add to other lengths for taller lift)

with the blocks an optimum size would have been 75mm wide by 8
with 4 by 55mm ( but it really doesnt matter) I turned these on lathe but can get them from Obrian's al in Sydney cut but not driiled (quoted me $90) as the al only cost 40 and had enough spare to make a couple of gearknobs did it myself.

H8 bolts cost $40 approx with double nuts (one set nylock)

Now to the ride/impression gearshift feels lower but not bad
bodyroll pre lift was progressive and slight but now is more pronounced and slightly wallowing (read easier to roll)
The car pre lift was surefooted but not as much now.Probably needs 12.5in tyres now to increase the track to get that back.
Well Ill keep you updated if anything else is a concern/benefit

Dave

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FollowupID: 27087

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