Running a compressor from the back of a Patrol
Submitted: Tuesday, Jun 22, 2010 at 23:37
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TimboOutThere
Wondering if anyone can help me out. I want to run my Bushranger compressor from the back of my Patrol, rather than open the bonnet each time. Its max draw is 40 amps.
I have a 50 amp dual core cable, fused and connected to my second battery. I think each cable is about a 6mm.
Run the cable, inside cable protector, along the chassis and into the back of the truck, left hand side, up to the rear light panel.
I was originally going to use Anderson connectors - but once they connect, they dont seem to part very easily. I then thought about a regular 240v power outlet and adding a regular 240v plug to the compressor (adding the wire to the crocodile clips, so I can keep them on).
Will a regular 240v powerboard and a regular 240v plug still work properly...i.e. am I likely to melt anything I don't want to melt...?
Thanks
Reply By: Injected - Wednesday, Jun 23, 2010 at 02:27
Wednesday, Jun 23, 2010 at 02:27
Timbo
Have you thought about using a T plug and socket. similar to the 240v plug and socket but has only two prongs one vertical at the bottom and one horizontal at the top.
Just thinking if you were to lend out or someone tries to plug compressor into regular wall socket at home, there could be trouble.
Just an idea.
Cheers
AnswerID:
421816
Follow Up By: Member - joc45 (WA) - Wednesday, Jun 23, 2010 at 07:42
Wednesday, Jun 23, 2010 at 07:42
Agree. If you must use something like a 240v connector, then use, instead, the T-plug.
With the 240v plug, you, personally, might know that it's intended only for 12v, but there is always some idiot who comes along and pokes it into a 240v outlet. Have seen it before with someone fitting a 240v plug to the 12v lead of an Engel, with disastrous results.
Gerry
FollowupID:
692222
Follow Up By: Fatso - Wednesday, Jun 23, 2010 at 08:11
Wednesday, Jun 23, 2010 at 08:11
I have those 2 pin polarised plugs on my accessories & I haven't seen one greater than 15 amp. They might be out there. Hopefully someone can clarify that.
FollowupID:
692225
Follow Up By: Fatso - Wednesday, Jun 23, 2010 at 08:15
Wednesday, Jun 23, 2010 at 08:15
40 amp draw is pretty big, Hopefully someone who knows a bit about electrics can tell you if a 240 volt 10 amp socket will carry 12 volt 40 amps.
Why don't you just hard wire it if you really want it down the back?
FollowupID:
692227
Follow Up By: fugwurgin - Wednesday, Jun 23, 2010 at 09:44
Wednesday, Jun 23, 2010 at 09:44
hi those t-plugs are available in 40amp
40amp 12v plug
FollowupID:
692232
Follow Up By: Michael ( Moss Vale NSW) - Wednesday, Jun 23, 2010 at 17:33
Wednesday, Jun 23, 2010 at 17:33
That plug and socket (T style) is $31 a pair... better off with a pair of 50 amp Anderson for $14........... Michael
FollowupID:
692250
Reply By: fugwurgin - Wednesday, Jun 23, 2010 at 09:38
Wednesday, Jun 23, 2010 at 09:38
hi
I could only assume that a 10-15 amp socket/plug would get quite warm running 40amps through it. A Hella socket would be great but only seen them up to 30amp.
The anderson plug would be the best, have you seen the t-handles that bolt onto the anderson plugs that give you a better grip to seperate them. they are available from Derek @ sidewinder.com.au for about $5 each. anderson plugs are nice and universal too, use it for lights, fridges, charging a second battery\camper etc.
have fun
AnswerID:
421838
Reply By: Member - Tony (ACT) - Wednesday, Jun 23, 2010 at 10:07
Wednesday, Jun 23, 2010 at 10:07
Yea Anderson Plug would be the go. Rather than run the wires along the outside, I took
mine through the fire wall on the LHS then under the floor trim and up near the back wheel arch.
Running it outside there is always a chance of stone damage etc.
AnswerID:
421842
Reply By: Member - John and Val - Wednesday, Jun 23, 2010 at 11:54
Wednesday, Jun 23, 2010 at 11:54
Timbo,
Bad practice to use 240V stuff on 12V. Switches intended for use on ac are not generally satisfactory on dc. A 10A 240v ac outlet will not stand 40A at 12V dc.
The big problem I see with running the compressor from an outlet in the back of the vehicle is the voltage loss in the run from the front. To keep this loss acceptable will call for 6 B&S cable (13.3 square mm of copper) for both + and - , and Anderson plugs. Details of recommended cable sizing may be found
here. . There was also a good table detailing this posted here in the last few days.
Suggest it's better to minimise the electrical losses by keeping the compressor close to the battery, and run a long compressed air line.
Cheers
John
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AnswerID:
421846
Reply By: Michael ( Moss Vale NSW) - Wednesday, Jun 23, 2010 at 17:18
Wednesday, Jun 23, 2010 at 17:18
I couldnt find any room to mount my Big Red compressor under the bonnet so i mounted it inside the spare wheel mount. The noise is outside and it is connected permanently via a switch on the dash.. Worth a thought.. Michael
AnswerID:
421861
Follow Up By: SDG - Wednesday, Jun 23, 2010 at 19:49
Wednesday, Jun 23, 2010 at 19:49
I saw one not long ago hard wired under bonnet with a switch on the dash as mentioned above. Nothing unusual there. What I did like was the airline. It was permanetly attached so that the air goes into a sealed pipeline that is used to hold the sidesteps. At each end of the sidestep, was the plug to attach a short airline, which only needed to be long enough to reach the tyre closest to the plug being used at the time. Apparently this setup did not loose any pressure, although I can see there being a problem if you hit something hard on the step.
FollowupID:
692260
Follow Up By: Michael ( Moss Vale NSW) - Wednesday, Jun 23, 2010 at 20:04
Wednesday, Jun 23, 2010 at 20:04
Mine is a little different, it is wired via a pressure switch so it cuts out at 60 PSI. The air outlet is connected to the spare wheel so it becomes a 100 litre
tank for no extra weight and it has Ryco air chuck mounted in the middle of the spare wheel. Simply plug in the air hose and away you go.... Michael
FollowupID:
692262