Battery Capacity & Charging Management

i've gone to wet-acids from agm's. In the last four years ive lost three agm's to cold snaps. The change is to reduce replacement cost...

i have incredableby complex looking Rotronics system with four box's and wires running everywhere.... the system works very very well but im horrified about locating a fail when/if one happens...

if i was to do it again i think i would stick to a simple mechanical solenoid. Sometimes they dont switch over successfully, but i always make sure i listen for the click over...

apparently, batteries that are stamped labeled are better than batterys sticker labeled

If you're looking for a good reliable and smart battery charger, we would recommend the CTEK. Go for an M series (marine) as they have a 5 year warranty.

Check out our website for more info

cheers

mh

Hello Landy,

just recently got to look under the bonnet of a client's Landy.
There was an O_p_tima sitting there.

He said the charging system on his Landy was tuned to perfectly charge this auxiliary battery.

Well I thought, that makes things easy.

Just parallel any number of additional O_p_tima type batteries to the existing one to increase the capacity in 50Ah steps.

No additional switches, or control gear.
If you select gauge #8 or 6 wire (even 6 mm auto wire), you can have the additional battery/ies some metres away from the existing one.
Just connect positive to positives, and neg to negtvs. 30 amp in-line-blade-fuse close to the positive battery terminal/s and you're all set.

BTW, if you're worried about the price of these ruggend batteries, there's help.

Pls check out my profile for current OE member offers on spiral wound pure lead/tin AGM batteries. Since you're already a member, you'll love these.... ;)

Best regards, Peter

Hi Landy,

I had a second battery installed by Graeme Cooper in St Peters, it is only a second cranking battery but as we will be travelling most days hopefully it will not be an issue as really only the fridge running off of it.
Rather than any smart solenoids, they fit a manual heavy duty battery switch
(something similar to thishttp://www.whitworths.com.au/main_itemdetail.asp?cat=123&item=84400&intAbsolutePage=1) which allows me to switch between batteries as needed and charge which ever is needed.

A deep cycle battery would be good in this type of set up, I looked at these as an option as they are 115 Am/hr but no room to fit it.

http://www.batteryguru.com.au/32.html

Worth giving them a call or going to their website

www.graemecooper.com.au

I have no affiliation with them other than they have serviced my 93 Classic Range Rover for the last 8+ years

hope that helps

I've run a dual battery system in two defenders over the last 10 years. For me the key parameters for me were:

* Amp Hour capacity in the auxiliary battery so you can run your accessories as long as possible
* Fastest possible recharge time from the alternator so you don't need to drive the vehicle for long to top it back up

My experience has been:
* Traditional flooded deep deep cycle batteries take longer to charge from the alternator than the newer AGM batteries. You can cut down your recharge times significantly by using AGMs over traditional flooded wet cell deep cycle batteries. You alternator may put out 60+ amps, but the non traditional deep cycles can't accept the available high current.

* Flooded starting batteries seem to be better than traditional deep cycle at accepting a higher charge current, but still not as good as AGM.

* If your dual battery system is able to charge the starting battery and then bring the auxiliary online and then isolate the starter to independently charge the auxiliary battery, you can cut down your recharge times over a simpler system that simply connects both starter and aux battery in parallel.

If your car has the ability to idle up and is quiet then I wouldn't get a charger Landy , just the alternator - its by far the most $ wise efficent system based on 1/2 hour re-charge or 2 a day.

If not CTEK's etc are great (25amp version).

Then its battery choice - and I agree that spiral wound Optima's are great but if cost is issue go for an Overlander or 2 (usually fit N70 sized battery holders with a squeeze) , with strong vibration resistant plates and I think low 80's AH.

. Best batteries to use;
AGM Deep Cycle for running a fridge etc because they will recharge much faster


. Most efficient charging system;
Solar power, or if you don't wish to join those with solar, the Vehicle Alternator

Maîneÿ . . .

Thanks for the many responses, and I'll let you know how I go.