Aluminium Camper trailers..

The one and only major drawback is that the manufacturer is telling porkies , Every trailer maker raves on about the strength and weight of their product ,
200kg lighter than the equivalent steel ? put both on a weighbridge and you will be supprised , ours was supposed to only weigh 400kg empty , LOL , was 610kg before water/batts /gas bottles and camp gear ,,, when they say empty they realy mean TOTALLY BARE ,IE. no canvas / spare tire etc.

An aluminium structure should be about 30% lighter than a steel one of the same strength. Aluminium is 1/3rd the weight of steel, but you need it twice as thick.
If strength can also be reduced, then it will be lighter again.
Wheels, for example.
Have not seen aluminium axles yet, or aluminium springs (carbon ones exist though).
The downside of aluminium is that if the design is poor, it will fatigue crack at high stress points. If it cracks, there are relatively fewer people in the bush who can weld it up for you.
When I tow an aluminium tinny to the Kimberley, I also take a DC Mig welder that can weld aluminium, but most people won't have one of them.

Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 Motorhome.

You want strong AND light?
Check this out.
Fibreglass sandwich panel camper trailer.

Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 Motorhome

We are currently making a tandem axle camper that has a steel chassis with aluminium framing and Monopan panels. The Monopan is a fibrecomposite panel 30mm thick that acts as insulation, strength and finish.

The parts that remain heavy, are the axles, chassis (although lighter due to low tare weight), outriggers, tent and fitted items like fridge etc.

Because we are using composite panels as bed base, hard floor and camper sides, we can reduce the framework significantly even though it is aluminium.

Without the added extras like fridge, water tanks etc we expect the running trailer to be around 750kg. Remember that is a tandem with a bed base of 2200x3000. It also has a fridge compartment, slide out stainless kitchen, roll out draws, drawbar toolbox, and a hard floor when folded out (or top when closed).

Whilst we will be light for a camper, but not by much, we are very light for a tandem, but this is not designed as a rough and tough off roader. It has plenty of clearance and is solid but not hard core.

Folded out the hard area is 6m x 2.4m with a soft floor annex of the same size and option for the same on the other side.

If ever we finish the prototype we may market these as there is nothing to match them currently that we have found. We know we have a reduced target market being a tandem, but that is our choice.

We have chosen the materials carefully to utilise their strengths. There is no reason not to have a steel chassis as any weight savings are offset by cost and size. The panels are expensive but strong and thermally efficient and already painted. The aluminium frame and internal sheets are great for weight saving and weather prooofing.

We have conducted much research into this and for us this is the best choice, but realise it may not be for all.

Once we finally get it ready,we'll let you all know how it goes and whether it was worth the effort.

Cheers Cam

If you look long term I would be sticking with the "hot dip gal steel."

A number of reasons:

Every major high quality manufacturer uses it.Check Kimberley or Aussie offroad in campers or Bushtracker and Kedron in caravans

If you are on the beach, salty sand gets everywhere and almost impossible to totally remove. This willmake it corrode quicker.

Off road in the outback, stones will sand blast everything elso off the metal

Getting repairs done in the outback will be much harder and more expensive.

My Trak Shak is just 660kg empty. That is trailer and camper with wheels and tyres fitted and mattresses in place.

Duncs

Nothing wrong with ally and as Alloy ct says if they are well designed and biult they will be light and strong and don't need galvanizing.

I also have a Pacific camper trailer (an offroad Vision) and although I had some issues with it none related to the integrity of the structure.

It is very light at 750kg for a hard top camper with 2x 120 amp AGM batts, 2 x 120 watt solar panels, 14 litre gas electric Truma hot water, inverter, 40 amp charger, large air compressor and tank for air operated rear door, air suspension, electric brakes, 2x 100litre water tanks empty, all canvas and frames for shower and dressing room and 3 x 3.5 metre kitchen dining room and rear door room all with zip in floors.

It has done some tough work with no problems although I must agree that it would be far harder to find someone to repair ally in some places I have done all my own mods and have mig and tig so am not concerned on that front.

It is a delight to tow and helps keep fuel consumption in check.

All those boat builders cant be wrong can they

cheers

wafarmer