Traveling & towing a boat long distance
Submitted: Thursday, Aug 12, 2010 at 19:22
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Maîneÿ . . .
A question to those who tow a boat *long distances* in the realm of many thousands of Klms.
# How do you make sure the outboard is held stable on the transom over the long rough roads like the GRR ?
# Would you travel with (2) portable fuel tanks secured in back of the boat under cover, or in the tow vehicle ?
I've eliminated the
orange synthetic tie down rope, now using 2,500 Kg, rachet / tie down strapping, (as used on trucks) to hold the boat secure on the trailer, connected direct to the designated hold down lugs on trailer frame, behind the
wheels.
Any good idea's are welcome :-)
Image Could Not Be FoundMaîneÿ . . .
Reply By: Muntoo - Thursday, Aug 12, 2010 at 19:56
Thursday, Aug 12, 2010 at 19:56
With outboards under 30hp, your better off having it laying down in the boat or in the vehicle. If you intend travelling more then 100k's on dirt.
Carrying fuel is no probs, but prefer to have them laying on something soft to prevent splitting/rubbing through from the bumps. Make sure they are secure also. If the outboars is to stay on boat, then you need one of those leg support brackets that have the spring in them and attach to the trailer. Then you should tie the tiller up to either side of baot to keep it central and to also eliminate any movement. For long distances i also like to run another ratchet strap over the forward area of the boat, to keep it from bouncing.
Having skids rather then rollers helps too, as it spreads more weight over a greater area, but its not crucial. Other then that, i'd say your dinghy would be fine to tow on the dirt with just these items i mentioned.
Also try to keep all the weight in the middle and as low as possible. Main things to watch are your bearings, and the the mud guards usually. Mud guards always are the first to go.
AnswerID:
427052
Follow Up By: Drew - Karratha - Thursday, Aug 12, 2010 at 20:04
Thursday, Aug 12, 2010 at 20:04
Just read the above - after I submitted
mine - yep - agree with the mudgards!!
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Reply By: Drew - Karratha - Thursday, Aug 12, 2010 at 20:02
Thursday, Aug 12, 2010 at 20:02
1 Move the tie-down strap to behind the trailer
wheels - the further forward it is the more leverage (allowing the back of the boat to bounce easier). Use 2 if possible. (Sorry - just re-read the above re: position of straps...)
2 Secure the licence plate better!
3 I would move the fuel tanks to either over the axle - or just in front of it (depending on towball weight)
4 Find a piece of pvc pipe that fits over the tiller handle firmly, drill 2 holes in one end and attach rope from one handle on the back corner of the boat to the pvc, and the other from the pvc to the other handle on the opposite corner of the boat and tighten it - keeping the outboard from being able to swing side to side.
5 To stop the outboard jumping up and down - tie it firmly in the vertical position - the further 'tilted' the engine is - the more leverage there is on the transom of the boat
6 Tie the boat to the winch post firmly
7 If going on the GRR I would weld braces to the front spring hangers to stop these cracking through the existing welds and coming off
8 Cover the lower leg with some old carpet and a garbage bag and heaps of silver tape to stop stone chips and dust getting in.
9 From the photo - it appears the side bunks are only about 300mm long - if this is so I would suggest to replace them with something closer to a metre long - and adjust them so there is no weight on them, but there is absolutely no sideways rocking movement of the boat - then somehow lock them in place (I welded
mine).
Hope this helps a bit
Drew
AnswerID:
427054
Follow Up By: Joe Grace Doomadgee - Thursday, Aug 12, 2010 at 20:20
Thursday, Aug 12, 2010 at 20:20
and get a good quality cover made to cover the top of the boat and down the sides at least a foot or more, not the blue cheapys...
If you get a small rock bounce up in it, and you will get many, it will work its way under something heavy and every bump will punch a hole just a bit bigger....
Better to carry the fuel in the OPEN back of a ute, if it leaks you will pick it up quicker, if it leaks in the boat you may not notice it and it will mix with all the dirt/crup in the hull of the boat and every time you put it in the
water you will have an oily slick out the back and smell in the boat ...
Keep all your dry stuffs in the boat.... tents, chairs ect.
FollowupID:
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Reply By: Member - Serendipity(WA) - Thursday, Aug 12, 2010 at 22:13
Thursday, Aug 12, 2010 at 22:13
Most have already said the best options. I would just add that to do the GRR I would go the expense and change your slipper springs for some proper hanger springs.
I towed my boat into
steep point at
shark bay and smashed my leaf springs. Of course the other alternative is to take some spare leaf springs. At this point I have not fitted my boat with proper hanger springs but have purchased one piece galvanised slipper springs. I will see how they go.
One of the other things for towing over gravel roads is definitely a cover. Not only keeps the dust out but keeps your fishing gear in. If you get a cover make sure the front has a skirt going all the way down or you will get a bad gravel rash. Another thing I needed to do was put an inside cover to my wheel arch as that also threw alot of stones up the side of my boat.
I also have long slipper rails running up either side of my boat bottom hull about 200mm in from the chine. Another thing you cannot see from the photo is all the slide supports and centre roller supports are welded in place otherwise on the corrugations the drop down with just a bolt tightened on them.
Also with your holding down strap make sure you have it across where the
seat is or put some internal cross member or your will find the sides of your boat crushed in. And with your tie down add some soft carpet or such where it goes over the sides or you will wear the paint off.
David
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Follow Up By: Drew - Karratha - Thursday, Aug 12, 2010 at 22:41
Thursday, Aug 12, 2010 at 22:41
Be a bit wary of single-leaf springs. I was going to buy some but got talked out of them. If 1 leaf breaks - that is it...
Would be a good idea to add the double hanger springs though!
Oh - and shock absorbers make a huge difference too
Drew
FollowupID:
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Follow Up By: Member - Barry (NT) - Friday, Aug 13, 2010 at 11:54
Friday, Aug 13, 2010 at 11:54
Agree with David above - except for single leaf. Tried it before but was always in the back of my mind.
If multiple leaf springs you may be able to wire up in many cases.
Our boat is 5.6m quinny towed about 12K long haul no probs to date. Many short trips.
MAKE SURE if boat moves on the trailer the outboard moves with it. We have 115hp and 8 hp Yammies and they hinge at the trailer - ie the support bars for each engine to trailer is able to move while still supporting the weight.
Cheers Baz
PS slow down if the going gets rough obviously
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Follow Up By: Member - Serendipity(WA) - Friday, Aug 13, 2010 at 21:33
Friday, Aug 13, 2010 at 21:33
That boat cover and motor cover cost me $400 when living in
Darwin.
With the motor cover there is a large zip (plastic) but make sure they put a flap over the zip otherwise stones will hammer the zip and it wont open.
I have seats and a console that keep the cover up in the middle to shed the
water off. If you don't have anything your will need to make some arrangement to give a little roof like arrangement otherwise if it rains you will have so much
water in there you will not be able to move your boat.
David
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Follow Up By: Maîneÿ . . .- Friday, Aug 13, 2010 at 21:40
Friday, Aug 13, 2010 at 21:40
David,
You got it cheap, I've been quoted $800 here, so will look up in
Perth, have only one guy doing that type of work down here :)
Thanks for the hint about the zippers will organise that too
Maîneÿ . . .
FollowupID:
697775
Reply By: Member - Doug T (NT) - Thursday, Aug 12, 2010 at 23:24
Thursday, Aug 12, 2010 at 23:24
Many 1000's eh, then grease the wheel bearings, also chuck that bit of useless rope in the bin and go get 2 medium size tie down straps , not those pizzy little chinese things either, get something good, put one over the boat behind the wheel and the other about the rego number C, then it won't jump off the rollers.
.
AnswerID:
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Follow Up By: Maîneÿ . . .- Friday, Aug 13, 2010 at 15:36
Friday, Aug 13, 2010 at 15:36
Doug, the new tiedown ratchet is rated @ 2,5OO Kilo and the webbing is part of the system, so I would assume it's also suitable for 2,5OO Kilo loads too.
It's attached each side behind the trailer
wheels in the tiedown lug put on the trailer by Dunbier.
Maîneÿ . . .
FollowupID:
697736
Reply By: Maîneÿ . . .- Friday, Aug 13, 2010 at 15:23
Friday, Aug 13, 2010 at 15:23
Boat trailer has multiple leaf springs, I will have bearings looked at and regreased before leaving.
I've fitted the ratchet 'upside-down' so I can put a boat cover over the entire boat, as shown above, without damaging the cover, obviously the ratchet is not tightened up when not in use to eliminate webbing stretch.
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Maîneÿ . . .
AnswerID:
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