6.5 chevy injector pump timming

Submitted: Saturday, Sep 18, 2010 at 17:01
ThreadID: 81406 Views:5175 Replies:4 FollowUps:0
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hi does any one know how to set the pump timming on the 6.5 ltr chev engine.cheers
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Reply By: Ozhumvee - Saturday, Sep 18, 2010 at 17:13

Saturday, Sep 18, 2010 at 17:13
Yes, I've got a manual somewhere that spells out how to do it.
From what point are you doing it, engine assembly or replacing the pump.
AnswerID: 430705

Reply By: 65cruiser - Saturday, Sep 18, 2010 at 18:25

Saturday, Sep 18, 2010 at 18:25
i have got the pump on and the engine is running but dont know where to set the pump. chers
AnswerID: 430717

Reply By: Rockape - Saturday, Sep 18, 2010 at 18:45

Saturday, Sep 18, 2010 at 18:45
65cruiser,
best to contact Les Addison on the 4wd monthly forum site as he is the local Guru in Brisbane, nice guy who will share anything he knows about these engines and he knows a lot. I could give you the static marks but because the engine and year is unkown ( electronic/ mechanical or electronic converted to mechanical it is best he answers you.

Have a good one
AnswerID: 430723

Reply By: Ozhumvee - Saturday, Sep 18, 2010 at 19:09

Saturday, Sep 18, 2010 at 19:09
If you have the pump on, go for a drive and warm the engine to normal operating temperature.
Mark the pump and the plate it rotates against so you will know how much you have moved it. There should have been a mark with the original pump between the two before you changed it.
Stop engine and loosen the two nuts to allow pump to rotate (I loosened one and left the easily accessible one just tight enough to need a small turn with a spanner.
Start the engine and rotate the pump very slightly towards the right (advance) when you are standing in front of the vehicle. Any movement must be small, like a mm at a time. Keep moving until the engine starts to knock (diesel clatter becomes more noticeable) then move it back about a mm. You will find that this is pretty close to correct.
Then operate the governor arm on the side of the pump by hand, if the engine "misses" or stumbles it is too far advanced and if there is no change then it is pretty close.
If there is white smoke out the back at idle with the motor at operating temp it is retarded.
You may need a lever made from a piece of 1" flat bar with a bolt through one end to get enough leverage to move the pump.
I did the above when I changed my IP and about 15,000k later when I was at Brunswick Diesels in WA I asked them to check it and they reckoned they couldn't get it any better as it was spot on.
Mark the pump and plate with the new position if you had to move it.
AnswerID: 430726

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