Navara D22 - towing Jayco

A qualified reputable Auto Elec does this sort of stuff everyday. Just give him your spec as per above and Bobs your Uncle. The plug should also be ok, talk to Jayco and they will give you their plug compatibility spec etc. Make sure your electrics to the van are charging the van's battery etc whilst towing, you may want to discuss this with the Auto Elec. Yellow Pages or Google is your friend for Auto Elec in your area.

Hi Frank

I would be surprised (and disappointed) if they couldn't arrange the fitting in their yard as part of the deal as Coromal did for our first van over here in the west.

Pretty straight forward though, and as advised already, easy enough for any auto sparky, once he has the specs and gets the controller in for you.

Happy vanning when you do get underway.

Cheers - Phil

Statewide Auto Electrical in Kyneton are pretty good. Have done a lot of work on my Hi-Ace camper to set me up for freecamping.

Thank you all for your feedback. I am a lot clearer now on what I need to get done. I had a chat to Macedon Ranges Auto Elec based in New Gisborne. No matter who I speak to, I cant get a price for all this work. In the scheme of things iits nothing compared to the Van, but it would be nice to know before hand.

I have another question. I was supplied (as part of the deal) a Hayman Reese controller. I have done some research and the general consensus is to go the P3 or Prodigy. I can get a P3 for $170. Am I better off using the HR or going the P3 and selling off the HR ???

OK, so I sent an email to a particular mob, and specified the following (which is a summary of everything discussed):

EBC:
1) the brake controller circuit must be fed power through a 30 Amp
thermal reset circuit breaker.
2) the brake controllers circuit (between the circuit breaker and the
break controller) must have a 40 Amp (or better) relay that only
brings the circuit power on when the vehicles ignition is ON.
3) the wires for the brake controller MUST be 6mm all the way from the
front to the rear.

Fridge:
1) the fridge only draws power when the ignition is ON.
2) the fridge live wire to go via a 30 Amp relay, connection to the
car battery with a 30 Amp fuse.
3) from the relay to the rear of the car, minimum 6 B&S gauge wiring
for both +ve and -ve wires, connecting to a Anderson plug.

I just received a call back and the est. price for all this is.... between $1300-$1400 and a full days work. Is this excessive seeing that I am providing the controller and some of you guys are doing most of what i am requesting yourselves? Don't get me wrong, if thats the price to pay then so be it but it wasnt what i expected to hear.

Also, just an update, I bought the P3. I need to get rid of the Hayman Reese now.

OK, so searching for parts and reading various posts... Some say thermal reset and some say auto reset. Which is correct or ideal?